Taking the plunge

[joelpete]

I've been an auto shooter all along, but after dri-firing a 686 SSR (with trigger work done to it) I fell in love with the idea of owning a revolver. Alas, a 686 SSR is a little outta my price range right now, so a friend of mine directed me to a dealer I know that's got a couple S&W 66-7s available. I went and checked them out and bought the darn thing ($450).

Now, any suggestions on holsters, pouches, speed-loaders? For those unfamiliar with the 66, it's a stainless .357, six-shot, K-frame. Mine sports the 4" barrel.

I'm most interested in an IDPA legal hoster (one that fully covers the trigger guard), and speed-loaders that really work well.

Let's hear it ya'll.:popcorn:

[jameslovesjammie]

Once you have a taste of wheelguns...those bottom feeders just can't compare.

Your speed loader options are going to be Safariland and HKS, or have it cut for moonclips (if division allows). I'm not familiar with IDPA rules, but I am sure if you asked on brianenos.com they would recommend bladetech.

As far as boolit moulds go, the Lee 358-150-1R slips in with speedloaders better than just about anything else I have used in my 686.

I would also recommend getting a reduced power spring kit from Wolff and using hand seated Federal primers.

[arjacobson]

can't give you much info about holsters-etc but I too was a autoloader guy.. Until I tried a buddys k22. He has passed on but I would love to find another just like his. I love my model 19.. Yep revolvers are cool. Sure wish I paid more attention to them when police departments were in the trade in craze for autoloaders

[joelpete]

Once you have a taste of wheelguns...those bottom feeders just can't compare.

Your speed loader options are going to be Safariland and HKS, or have it cut for moonclips (if division allows). I'm not familiar with IDPA rules, but I am sure if you asked on brianenos.com they would recommend bladetech.

As far as boolit moulds go, the Lee 358-150-1R slips in with speedloaders better than just about anything else I have used in my 686.

I would also recommend getting a reduced power spring kit from Wolff and using hand seated Federal primers.


jameslovesjammie,

Thanks for the info. I've done many mods to my .22s, is the spring kit something a do it yourselfer can do, or is that gunsmith material?

I already handseat my primers, but why Federal over say, CCI? I thought I read in the Lee Manual to stay away from Federal primers...

arjacobson,

Yeah, I think this could get addicting... Like I need another gun-related hobby to get addicted to...

[jameslovesjammie]

Lee primers are the easiest to ignite because they have a softer cup and also use a different type of priming compound than standard primers. This makes them the best primer for use in a revolver with a reduced power spring setup. The reason that Federal primers are not recommended by Lee is that their hand priming tool does not separate the primer being seated from the rest of the primers in the tray. If the primer being seated went off then the whole tray could go off.

As far as the spring kit goes, it is fairly easy to do by your self. There are a few videos on Youtube showing how to do it, or you can purchase the Jerry Miculek Trigger Job DVD, which is a good reference to have anyway.

[Combat Diver]

There is something about a good Smith DA trigger. I love the K frames but currently don't have one, but still shoot J and N frames. I used to shoot ISPC with my 3" 64/65s, 4" 19/66 and 6.5" 657. For speed loaders Safarilands are a bit quicker but have limited types for different guns. I go with the HKS models as they are the same design from .22-44s for muscle memory. I do carry my old Smith 58 in a Safariland OWB holster but don't remember the number.

CD

[Piedmont]

JLJ is telling you in a roundabout way that if you put in lighter springs your gun may not go bang reliably with anything but the most sensitive brand of primer available.

Not a trade I would personally make.

[joelpete]

JLJ is telling you in a roundabout way that if you put in lighter springs your gun may not go bang reliably with anything but the most sensitive brand of primer available.

Not a trade I would personally make.

Ah! Thank you Peidmont, that clears things up a bit.

JLJ, Not sure if I'll make the change or not, but I DO appreciate your input. I'll definately look into that trigger job DVD.

This site ROCKS!

[ironhead7544]

For leather, call Sam at Andrews Custom Leather. See what he has for IDPA. Not cheap but worth it.

[jameslovesjammie]

joelpete,

If the 686SSR you originally tried (and liked) is a competition gun and has had a trigger job done to it...it would have more than likely had the same modifications done to it that I mentioned. The 686SSR from Smith comes with a reduced power mainspring already from the factory. Most folks just go the next step.

[joelpete]

For now, this will be a range gun, as my .45ACP is sized a little better for concealment. That being said, I'm more than willing to try a few non-permanent options. The Wolff springs will be on order soon.

[bobthenailer]

safarland comp 3 or comp 2 speedloaders , safarland spring steel speed loader holder that clips over belt for the least expensive that will work pretty well. A wilson or wolff reduced power trigger spring kit will really make a big difference. they are easy for me to put in , about 10 minutes
38 special cases , loaded with 158 or 125 gr rn bullets.
the cyl charge holes my need to have the edges slightly rounded.
perhaps a fiber optic front sight ! my choice is green.
trigger time !!

[Tim357]

The Smith 66s are great revolvers. I'd be leery of modding the cylinder for moon clips tho. These revolvers are no longer in production, so parts may become hard to come by. Were it me, I'd load mid-power loads (12-13 gr 2400 w/ 158 SWC boolits) and learn to hit what I'm shooting at. Abuddy of mine had a Model 19 some years ago. Sure had a sweet trigger!
Good shooting

[joelpete]

I bought the Wolff spring set for the 66; it came with the power rib mainspring and 13#, 14#, and 15# rebound springs. I brought the gun back to the dealer/smith I bought it from (he has one of the rebound spring tools) and we had the 14# rebound and mainspring in, in a jiffy. Holy cow! That is an amazing improvement over the 18# stock rebound and mainspring. And the trigger resets as fast as it did stock (which is important for me).

Obviously I can't say it's a total success until I've fired it at the range, but I can't wait to try. If it works like I'm expecting to, I will recommend this upgrade to all 19/66 owners. The upgrade was inexpensive ($25 delivered), easy to do (really, I could have done this myself), and there is no permanent change/damage to the gun.

One last caveat, I wouldn't suggest using this as a carry weapon without firing at least 100 faultless rounds of your carry ammunition, post upgrade. For that matter, I wouldn't suggest carrying anything that can't produce 100 flawless fires of your carry ammo.

[joelpete]

100 rounds of American Eagle through the wheel with the new springs in place. FLAWLESS! Most shots we in double and triple rapid succession groups. I am extremely satisfied with the Wolff Spring kit in my 66. For the price, you can't go wrong.

[pmer]

This thread helped me decide to get a spring kit for my 625 and what a difference it makes! I have the 13 LB trigger spring in it now but I should put the 14 LB in because SA is just too light. DA mode is incredible though.