Do you have a broken/non-working Lyman 45 lubsizr ?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Last fall I bought a used Lyman 45 lubsizr from a member here.
I really liked using the 45 better than the Lyman 450 I had.
So, I started looking for another 45.
I found out that the same member I bought the first 45 from
had a box of lubsizer parts from which he had assembled
that lubsizr I bought, plus another one (which he also sold).

The first two photos below are the parts that were leftover
(no handles/levers or linkage).
I offered him a trade and in a few weeks,
I was the proud owner of these parts.

I am posting here not only to show off :mrgreen:
But to show what I fabricated to replace
the handle/lever/linkage, since that seems
to be the weak point in the 45's design.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Lyman45sdealqty3.jpg

BTW some of these parts aren't for a Lyman 45, that kind of threw me at first.
I still don't know what the 3 O-ring pressure pistols are from, maybe RCBS ?
they have different threads than the two types of threads Lyman uses.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Lyman45partsfrom3sizersdeal.jpg


First, I Boiled, disassembled, and cleaned everything, one set of parts
seemed in like new condition, so I used the original handle/lever/linkage
from the first one I bought to put on the new perfect parts
to make one that looks like New. Then I fabricated a handle and
linkage to a near similar shape as the original from some scrap steel
and two 9/16" bolts. Shown here before they were painted.
I replaced the pins and snap-rings holding
the lever on with 5/16" bolts (custom fit) and Nylock nuts.
BTW, I was able to help out 2 other members here with the
extra Reservoir tube and lower cast chassis shown to the far right,
besides the warm fuzzy feeling, I got some cash too :)
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/lyman45sasrebuildunpantedII.jpg


I was originally going to use the 9/16" Nut as a handle or
make my own wooden handle, But, the handle on My Lee classic cast press
was a perfect fit...after I tapped some threads.
For only $3 each, it's tough not to just order them, So I did.
I also painted the newly fab'ed parts Black.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/100_1636.jpg


Here is another angle of the assembled 45's
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/100_1638.jpg


a photo of the three units, one is still partly disassembled.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/100_1637.jpg


PS: Now that I have more sizers than bench space, I had
to come up with a way to store them.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/100_1639.jpg

[RP]

Nice job and good pics you going to retire that star hanging there lol.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

funny you ask about the star,
I bought it last summer with a bunch of molds, a lyman 450, 17 tubes of Tamarack and 200lbs of alloy...all of which hasn't been used since the 80s.
I haven't even cleaned up the star or tried to use it yet.
I did have some of the dies that it came with resized by Lathesmith
and also had him make a few new ones too...and a "L" handle
It seems a shame not to use it,
But I don't really shoot one style of boolit enough to warrent a star...yet.
I'll probably just hang on to it, someday I may scrape the old tamarack lube out
and clean the dust off of it, and try it out :)
Jon

[fryboy]

IMHO ...it's better to have a star than not need it than to need it and not have it ( and assuredly it wouldnt be sitting idle if i had it for very long periods of time ) love the pix ! the u bracket is interesting and looks easier than slotting a bolt that i had considered should my pivot bolt ever break
i sprung for one of the first lee bench plates out and use it to mount most my sizers on , there's better and worse ways of doing it , for me it beat the various 2x6's & 8's i used to use with c-clamps ( less blocky - no pun intended :P )

[frankenfab]

Nice work, JonB!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Fryboy,
I use heavy duty furnature square drive screws and a cordless drill to mount and unmount the sizers to a butcher block work bench. they are about as strong as lag bolts...but smaller.
that's about as fast as it gets (less than a minute, if the drill is nearby), without spending more money for a rockdock from pat or the Lee bench plates you're using.
Jon

[NoZombies]

Hey! Glad they are working for you! The work looks great.

I imagine you'll be getting some good use out of 'em. It's nice having a bunch of 'em set up, being able to experiment with different lubes, or have them dedicated to a single gun or caliber without having to change things out all the time.

[geargnasher]

Jon, that's SUPER! Thanks for posting, my 45 came to me used with a makeshift replacement handle, I've been meaning to make another one for it, but hadn't put the mental energy into designing one. Mind if I scab your design?

Gear

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

my 45 came to me used with a makeshift replacement handle, I've been meaning to make another one for it, but hadn't put the mental energy into designing one. Mind if I scab your design? Gear

Gear,
absolutely, that's why I posted this.
I've heard others mention the weak link is the
parts that were missing from my box of misc parts...handle/linkage
So, I figured others might have a broken 45 lying around.

BTW, I would space the two holes in the Handle,
a little farther apart that the Stock handle.
maybe even as little as .250" or as much as .750"
I spaced them exactly as the original.
when I first assembled it, the bolt Head that
connects the linkage to the handle would come into
contact with the reservior tube,
So I added a washer as a spacer inbetween
the Handle where it bolts to the cast assembly
that rides on the reservior tube. I could have
filed the bolt head thinner too or used a Pin
with an external snap-ring retaining clip like the original.
But I am quite sure a longer distance would remedy
that and also you would gain some mechanical
advantage too...Bonus :)
Jon

[Pressman]

I need the fine thread, shoulder bolt that connects the handle to the slide - if anyone has a spare.

Ken

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Ken,
the fastener on the only stock handle connecting it to slide,
that I have is a non-threaded pin,
the slide end has a cotter pin to retain it and
the handle end has an external snap-ring retainer.

I do have a spare one as I discribe, but
the end with the snap-ring has been hammered
and the groove is somewhat squashed...also no snap-ring.

No threads ?
Am I misunderstanding you ?
or is there a different version 45 ?
Jon


PS: Ken Look at the first photo in the Original post,
then look at the rusty-est 45, it has the Pin in it as I discribe.

[Pressman]

JonB, I see what you are saying. Now I am wondering if there was a pin change along with the change to a solid cap from the cast cap. Looks like I will be in the market for another 45.

I have two of the older models and both use a 1/4" fine thread bolt in the slide with a 5/16" hole in the handle. The bolt has a round head with a screw slot. It is a weak design and prone to coming loose. The one part that makes me nervous when appling a lot of force on 44/45 caliber bullets.

Can anyone else shed some light on this?

Ken

[geargnasher]

Maybe I can. My 45 has a 1/4" fine-thread hole in the slide for the handle mount, and there is a shoulder bolt with about 5/8" (eyeballed) smooth shank probably 5/16" diamter, the head is round, large, and has a large screwdriver slot milled in it. I'm pretty sure mine has the original part here, it's polished and blued like all the other fasteners on the machine.

Gear

[shotman]

the pin that holds the handle link you can tap the main houseing and screw a shoulder bolt in and cut it to lengh and drill 1/8 hole for the cotter pin
the original has as said a small snap ring but a little lock tight would work. That snap ring is a pain to get off or on.
also they had 2 different top pressure styles one is 1/4in hex and one is 1/4 square. a handle off or water valve works for the square and a little cheap ratchet wrench works for the hex

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I plan to make a few more Handle/linkage sets.
I need three for myself for recently acquired 45's.

As I've said before, with the extra length in the handle (Leverage)
and the Large round knob, it really cuts down on the fatigue and
makes the 45 even more of a joy to use.

I am currectly working at the one jobsite (for the next week for sure)
were I can get scrap Lasor cutouts from 3/8" plate steel and 1/2" plate steel.
I have picked out a few nice shapes to use to make Lyman 45 handle base
and linkage. They will not be the same as shown above, and I will not
offer them til I have proven my new design...in case it doesn't work (Heaven forbid !)

I haven't found a economical source for the large 16" - 9/16" bolt I used,
It came from a large electrical wire spool. Anyway, I am going
to try using 1/2" re-bar. I think it'll be strong enough and won't bend.
that'll be one of my first tests. The linkage will be 3/8" by 3/8" (cutouts
from 3/8" plate steel) held by 3/16" clevis pins, instead of the Bend "U" shaped
12 ga. sheet steel held by bolts that I originally used. I'll post photos when I get far enough.

I think I have 3/8" plate scraps enough to make about 3.
Maybe I can get more scrap, maybe not ???

FYI... I will be welding these. The first ones that are photographed
in the OP were welded by a Professional welder (a favor I called in).
So what I'm sayin' is, the welds may look goobered and NOT beautiful
like those in the OP, but they will be strong, I guarentee it.
Jon

[Pressman]

Rebar should work, I have a Lachmiller that a past owner hacksawed the casr iron handle off of and welded a longer length of rbar to. He was a swager so he needed all the leverage he could get.

I like to use drill rod when making handles for presses, plenty strong enough and cheap also.
Ken

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

thanks Ken for the reassurance.
Jon

[Alan in Vermont]

Rebar is horrible stuff to weld, sometimes to the point that you get underbead cracking, on the rebar side of the weld, as it cools. Even if it does look like a weld they will often fail when any sort of load is applied. Go to your local hardware store and get a length of 1/2"cold rolled rod, drill a hole in the knob and epoxy it on.

[BCall]

I'd be interested in a new handle for one I have here that is cracked. Thanks, Billy

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

well, it's been over 3 months since I posted here.
I'm still thinking about this, in fact I made some headway last week.
I finally made a prototype of my envisioned linkage design using 3/8" plate steel scraps.
I haven't tested it yet, I hope the #10 hard steel pins are up for the punishment the 18"
long handle might deliver.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/rightside800x1000.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/rightsidelowered900x840.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/leftside800x1000.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/top800x1000.jpg

[fryboy]

holy moly that's a heck of a link !!! i cant help but wonder how moving the bottom pivot further back will affect it ( adding or reducing the leverage ) you may have to be careful amigo as you mite exceed the rest of the machine's cast iron strength :P

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I lubed/sized a couple hundred .433 boolits down to .430 today.
WW alloy and they were freshly cast (2 hours), so they weren't too hard yet.
the new handle and linkage worked great so far.
the Long 18" handle was too long, kind of like 'ape hangers' on a Harley.
14" should be a good compremise.

fry,
I don't believe moving "the bottom pivot further back" gives any noticable change in leverage.
I also have the main link nearly exactly as long as the original,
and the hole placement in the handle plate is near the same as the original.
the length of the handle is all I really wanted to change to gain leverage.
I went with the smallness of the #10 steel pins for a 'weak' point,
they should bend/break before anything else...I'm guessing ???

also, I use simple wood screws to mount the 45 to my wooden bench,
that is another 'weak' point I have built into MY system, I'd rather break
my bench than a 45.
Jon

[hiram1]

Real good work.

[max range]

Franken-sizer resurrected from the bone-yard. I like it. I am willing to bet there might be a market for those arms.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Max,
this quest is more than that.
Besides the 45 having weak linkage points and a kinda weak cast iron handle,
the handle is kinda short and the wooden grip is slim.
I want erogonomic improvement, less stressfull sizing.
Jon

[Ziptar]

I came across this modified Lyman 45 on eBay the other day. Looks like they used a BBQ Spatula Handle and a 3/8" socket extension for some of the parts.

Interesting way to modify the handle, sort of LAM or Saeco style.

[fryboy]

I came across this modified Lyman 45 on eBay the other day. Looks like they used a BBQ Spatula Handle and a 3/8" socket extension for some of the parts.

Interesting way to modify the handle, sort of LAM or Saeco style.

that's funny , i saw that too and forwarded a link to our compadre jon asap lolz

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Well I sized 500 38spls last sunday with this sizer
I noticed a little 'play' in my linkage. At first I
was worried, but after disassembly and reassembly,
I'm sure it was always there and just didn't notice before.
Then I sized some 243s with another lyman 45 (original handle)
using some of Randyrat's Tak lube...WOW, there is a lot of 'play'
in the original setup...So no worries.
Also, using the original setup reminded me how much better (ergonomical)
the new handle feels. More like a heavy duty reloading press and less like a toy.
Jon

[Revolver]

Great work, I am always fascinated when creativity and skill are put to good use. Thanks for sharing!

[7of7]

I am going to have to do that to the one that I have... just to get a few more inches on the handle length.. I need a bit more leverage doing 45's...(gas checks) I just don't want to break the original handle.. I have heard that that is the weak spot on these..

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

well time for another update.

I've cut the handle to 14" and am happy with that.
It's still longer than the original 11" handle,
so it gives more leverage,
but not too long to be cumbersome.

I've sized hundreds of different caliber
boolits...some large ones for the 500 S&W mag revolver.
this handle and linkage is stronger than the rest of the 45.

I've painted the handle and blued the linkage and
I found a new spring to lift the heavier handle too.

This handle/linkage only will be sold on a site benefit auction.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/fullviewofside.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/backclosupoflinkage.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/front.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/RTsidecloseup.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/leftsidecloseup.jpg

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

It's been about a month since I shipped the last handle kit.
I'm thinking many of the buyers have probably assembled
the kit onto their lyman 45.
How's it working ?
Any problems ?
Jon

[Dududad]

Just getting started. Have the model 45 lyman sizer. Will 450 or 4500 sizers fit? The 45 uses an allen head to hold it. Also if my barrel slugged .357 and cyliders slugged .3575 and .358.....what sizer number should i use if my mold throws .361? Thanks dududad

[alfloyd]

.359, if it will fit in the cylinders.

Lafaun

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Just getting started. Have the model 45 lyman sizer. Will 450 or 4500 sizers fit? The 45 uses an allen head to hold it. Also if my barrel slugged .357 and cyliders slugged .3575 and .358.....what sizer number should i use if my mold throws .361? Thanks dududad

All the Lyman size dies fit all the lyman lubesizer presses, even going back to the century old Ideal/Lyman lubesizer press #1
I have several S&W revolvers in 38 and 357
I started using a .358" size die, but have since moved to .359" since there is plenty of variation in the guns I own. You'd be fine using a .358" but might want to consider a .359" if you are buying a new one.
Jon

[oldtoolsniper]

JonB
I see that you are no longer making these. I now have four of these to clean up and put back into service. Would you be interested in sharing the dimensions of your improvements? I would like to make a new handle for each before I break one.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

JonB
I see that you are no longer making these. I now have four of these to clean up and put back into service. Would you be interested in sharing the dimensions of your improvements? I would like to make a new handle for each before I break one.
oldtoolsniper,
I have no documentation, it was all in my head. I built them from scrap pieces from a jobsite, mostly 3/8" plate steel. For example, Of the several I built, the triangle pieces weren't all identical to one another. also some of the one's I built used 1/2" sch 80 tubing, some others I used solid rod 1/2" and 7/16". If I had used "new" steel bought at retail prices, I'd have to charge more than a Lyman 45 is worth, just for this custom handle...of course IMHO, this handle makes the 45 much more superior to any unmodified Lyman lubesizer...any of them !

I used an original handle as kind of a guide for hole placement. Also, as posted here I increased the length to 14" (the original is 11") for more leverage/mechanical advantage. I believe I have some extra linkage pieces and the base mounts that connects the link to the base, they have not been drilled or may not be the exact correct size. I may also have some leftover link pins and other hardware. let me know if you'd like to buy some or all of what I have.

Lastly, when I listed the lot of handle kits I was able to build with the scraps I accumulated, I specifically stated this was a one time deal and I wouldn't build any more. At that time, I was asked by another member, for documentation and permission to sell them. I'll tell you what I told him.
"The time it'd take me to prepare good documents would cost more than I charged for an unfinished kit (which was $20), so I told him to buy a kit and measure it himself, I had no patent or trademark or claim of any kind. you or anyone else are free to copy and sell a handle kit."
Now I don't have a handle kit to sell you, but you get the idea how much I want for a detailed drawing.
Jon

[oldtoolsniper]

Jon,
I completely understand. I did the same thing a while back with ingot molds and I got tired of that factory work real quick. I enjoy a challenge and I like to learn but I am not a factory type worker. I am amazed at those who can do it cuz Id rather jump on my sword then ever work a factory job again.

That being said I will send you a PM in regards to your remaining parts. It's a great idea and I am sure i'll be sick of it after four!

Roy

[g.pennell]

Guys, does anyone have a spare pressure screw for a 45? I just popped the head off mine this afternoon. Tried brazing it back on (looked like it had been repaired before). That lasted about 10 more boolits before it came off again. I have a lathe and can make one if I have to, but I thought I'd check here first.

Thanks,

Greg

[shooter2]

Wow, you are a real craftsman!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Guys, does anyone have a spare pressure screw for a 45? I just popped the head off mine this afternoon. Tried brazing it back on (looked like it had been repaired before). That lasted about 10 more boolits before it came off again. I have a lathe and can make one if I have to, but I thought I'd check here first. Thanks, Greg
Greg,
Lyman has the pressure screw cheap...like $6
But I heard they are backlogged in this buying climate...3 or 4 weeks ???

I am pretty sure lyman brazed some pressure screws at one point in their production. I have a few busted ones, that have brazing, and others have reported the same thing you just posted.
Jon

[g.pennell]

Thanks Jon. I didn't realize that the parts for the newer sizers would interchange. I'll get Lyman on the horn and get a new screw and piston on the way.

Greg

[stepdonn]

hi happened to see that a guy on another sight made a set of handles out of a set of heavy old tin snips looked good and wroked great

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Yep, I could imagine that.
Pictures ?
Link ?

[stepdonn]

came off of Canadian Gun Nutz bullet making form under Tonights project.


I went and bought a set of Lee molds for my 9mm and a 10lb Lee pot but could not get any handles for the molds so I decided to build my own. They started out life as a pair of old style tin snips. I cut and drilled some flat bar to fit into the groves on the mold, clamped it all in place and welded it up with the TIG, did some cosmetic corner rounding and voila! I fired up the pot, melted a few ingots and cast up my first ever batch of bullets. I did take me quite a few batches to get the mold temperature figured out but once I got it, all went pretty good. Now I can at least play around while I wait for a set of Lee handles to arrive.

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae347/BDomney/photo4.jpg (http://s986.photobucket.com/user/BDomney/media/photo4.jpg.html)

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae347/BDomney/photo3.jpg (http://s986.photobucket.com/user/BDomney/media/photo3.jpg.html)

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae347/BDomney/photo1.jpg (http://s986.photobucket.com/user/BDomney/media/photo1.jpg.html)

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae347/BDomney/photo2.jpg (http://s986.photobucket.com/user/BDomney/media/photo2.jpg.html)

[noonanda]

I need the fine thread, shoulder bolt that connects the handle to the slide - if anyone has a spare.

Ken
Sorry about the Necropost but did you or anyone come up with a solution to this? I just had mine snap while sizing/lubing .44 mag bullets. I am thinking about drilling the frame for a carriage style bolt. If I could find the original bolt it would be great but aint holding my breath

[fryboy]

a small headed clevis pin can work , prolly have to grind one side flat to fit against the body or a bolt with the same grinding , insert the headed side on the body and put a washer/cotter key or a washer/nut on the outside of the handle ( depending upon which method you use )

[frankenfab]

Thanks to JonB and everyone else for all the great info in this thread!

I'm going through 3 45's at present, so even it's an old thread, the effort is still helping people like me.