dipping case necks in mica ?

[Throckmorton]

Seems I"ve heard this makes the expander ball slip out more readily,is that the idea?
and do you just tap it out and leave the residue in the case neck?

I bought some a while back,then never did any bottle neck cases until now... or soon to be actually.May start reloading .223 plinking rounds.

thanks all

[Calamity Jake]

I tried the mica, seemed to make the drag worse not better.

I started using some #8 shot in a 35MM film bottle laced with graphite, work the necks up and down a few times to coat inside and outside then be sure to shake any shot out that may get stuck inside that 22 hole.

This works for neck sizing only.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I've never used Mica, but I have always used powdered graphite. Its dirty stuff and gets smeared around, but it works well and makes neck sizing and expanding a lot easier, cutting down wear on the die/expanding ball/button. Keeps the powder measures running smoother too. LLS

[Throckmorton]

thanks,guess I'll have to remember why I bought the mica .
I have some graphite too,so I'll give that a try.

thanks all.

[jaguarxk120]

Brush the case necks with a nylon brush. That cleans off the carbon/powder fouling from the surface.

I add a few drops of oil to the brush since the case's are washed after sizing.

[jhrosier]

I've used powdered graphite on the inside of rifle cases for a long time.
I keep a small container near the press with a bent pipe cleaner to swirl the inside of the neck.
A teaspoon of fine graphite can last for years.

Jack

[fishnbob]

I bought a case neck graphiter around 25 yrs. ago. It has white graphite in the bottom of the tray and 3 brass bristle brushes (try saying that 3 times quickly). I usually dunk the neck about 1/8 inch deep and then shove it down on the applicable size brush, swirl it around and resize it. I can't seem to do without it. I am still using the small amount of graphite that came with it. Don't know where I got it but I think Cabela's and Midway carry it by RCBS.

[stubshaft]

I'm with Calamity Jake and use a film container with lead shot and graphite. I use the Mica to LIGHTLY coat boolits lubed with xlox.

[Bret4207]

I bought a case neck graphiter around 25 yrs. ago. It has white graphite in the bottom of the tray and 3 brass bristle brushes (try saying that 3 times quickly). I usually dunk the neck about 1/8 inch deep and then shove it down on the applicable size brush, swirl it around and resize it. I can't seem to do without it. I am still using the small amount of graphite that came with it. Don't know where I got it but I think Cabela's and Midway carry it by RCBS.

Same as Bob here. I got a neck lubing kit is a box of reloading "junk". Mines a Winchester brand and has 4 brushes. Works good, I'm still using the same 4 oz tube of powdered graphite that my Dad bought well before 1979 when he passed.

[Black Prince]

Guys, Fishbob has it exactly correct except for mistaking mica for white graphite. Think about what graphite is, how it's made, what it's made from, and you'll know there is, and can be, no white graphite. What you are calling white graphite is actually mica. Powdered mica has been used as a dry lubricant for centuries. The white powder supplied with most makers case neck lube kits is mica. It is sold by Midway USA and many other suppliers. In order to use it properly, you have to brush it on the inside of the case neck. If you don't lube the inside of the case neck, you are going to unnecessarily stretch the case and thus you'll have to trim it more often. There is an easier way to do all of that and that is to get a carbide expanding ball to replace the tempered steel one that comes with most standard die sets. You don't have to inside lube the case necks then and it is much easier to load with. You guys are trying to reinvent the wheel. Read your loading manuals and most good ones will tell you all of this. Read the catalogs from Midway USA and look at the die section. See what is available. If you don't understand what it is, call them. This isn't rocket science and reloading is now easier than ever before. We have all kinds of things available to reloaders today that were not around when I got started in this and reloading is easier than ever. We have more tools and gadgets than you can shake a stick at. You fellas can use that dirty, black graphite if you want to, and you can call mica white graphite if you want to and for sure they both work, but there is an easier way.

[Calamity Jake]

Them carbide expander balls are nice but a little lube still reduces drag, less drag less stretch.

[MtGun44]

Mica works fine, only use it when I have an issue with dirty and draggy necks.

Bill

[Char-Gar]

Years ago, I started out with graphite in an old typewriter ribbon can. I just stuck in case neck in the graphite and taped it against the side of the can to remove any excess. It worked just fine.

I tried the Motor Mica stuff and it is awful for a case neck lube. Most often I use a little case sizing lube on a pipe cleaner and run it around inside the case neck every half dozen cases or so.

[Dframe]

Yup. Started using that little mica thingy with the brushes long ago. Works great.

[Kevin Rohrer]

I use Imperial Dry Neck Lube, which is graphic held in a suspension of itty-bitty balls.

[scrapcan]

The newer imperial dry neck lube is as Kevin says. My can is just graphite in a small can. I have had it since I started reloading in the mid 1980's as a young teenager. I also have a forster, actually marked redding bonanza, case neck tool (red with three brushes) that uses mica.

there are different grades of mica (sizes) if you have too large of a grade it can be harder to use than the fine powdered kind.

I have and use both mica and imperial dry neck lube. both work, you get to shoose if you want dark grey or white blotches on your jeans after you reload!

[Smoke-um if you got-um]

I use watered down Lee Lube . As I wipe the case with my fingers a little bit is left over and is then swiped across the case mouth leaving a ring inside the mouth at the top. After sizing ,the case gets wiped with a dish towel and the case neck gets a push-pull from a nylon brush. After doing it this way for over 20 yrs I would never revert to a petroleum or graphite based lube again. It is the cleanest method I have ever used and is oderless as well. Some people despise Lee Lube but I have never had the problems they desrcibe. It does get thick and waxy with age but a little bit of water and a quick stir in an old pill bottle and it's good as new. I have revived mine many times and have sized cases as large as 7mm Magnum with it with no problems. If your sizing die ever needs cleaned just hot water and a little dish detergent do the job nicely.

Mike

[catboat]

Here's a simple way of lubing the inside of your case necks:

Prior to neck sizing/expanding, use a sharpened lead pencil, and run it 1-2 times inside the case neck. The "lead" is graphite. Dry lube. Cheap and effective.

[Walter Laich]

I think Frankford (Midway) also makes a little 'station of 3 or 4 brushes--mine is blue in color

[Wayne S]

I'm with Calamity Jake and use a film container with lead shot and graphite. I use the Mica to LIGHTLY coat boolits lubed with xlox.

"DITTO" except I use moly instead of graphite w/ # 9 shot, and the mica for all my lubed bullets, just wipe off the excess anter they are seated in the case.

[GLShooter]

I use the mica for lubing the inside of my 556/223 cases to neck up for 6X45 brass using a mandrel. It works well for me. I will also use it to round out 25 WSSM necks when I first get the brass.

Greg