Base fins

[DeadHandRed]

After ironing out my wrinkle issue i got stuck in and cast a hundred or so to see if i could keep up a good pace, and they generally came out all right, but at some point after i stopped checking (lighting issues , and i was quenching), they started producing a fin around the base. now ive found what caused the issue, it was a bit of lead under the sprue.. (BullPlate is on the way, thanks MtGun44).

but my question is this.. can i shave off the fins and raised center sprue break?

theyre not terrible (they are very thin) but they wont do as is... im just wondering if any of you would take the time to put them right... or chuck em back in the pot.

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/817/finsu.jpg

otherwise i had a good time

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/4025/boolitsf.jpg

[stubshaft]

I'd remelt and recast. If you tried to shoot them and you had a flier, what would you blame? The load or a possible bad boolit?

[lwknight]

I would melt em.
Melting stuff is fun.

[Czech_too]

"chuck em back in the pot"

I get that some with a .22 mould and it's not worth my time, or aggrevation, trying to remove it.

[btroj]

I would melt them down. It will take too much effort to clean them up so a check will fit properly. That could also become a good way to cut a finger with a knife.

You are learning, that is what counts.

Brad

[songdog53]

Remelt them and repour besides once addicted melting lead is pleasure. Plus don't want risk of bad shot from fins or cutting hand cutting them off.

[onondaga]

The whole base of the bullet is longer when you get flash like that from a sprue plate being lifted by stuck lead. So, the bullet weight, even if you trim it precisely will be considerably heavy compared to bullets cast without the sprue plate lift obstruction. Melt them again-- it is just lead.

Gary

[GP100man]

Clean the mold/sprue plate & lube with Bull Plate when it gets there .

When ya get back to pouring watch the bases ,as this starts cut the temp back or lower casting pressure .

It will be a pain in the neck to get em trimmed so a GC will seat squarely, the good news is it looks as if most are OK in the pic !

[DeadHandRed]

the bullplate wont arrive for a week but i got bored and decided to try again...

and it happened again

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8608/bits.jpg

whats the best way to remove this lead? also any tips on the best way to clean up my mold.. the alox/bee and smoking was terrible..

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/6797/p1020865s.jpg

Red

[stubshaft]

KROIL - Spray it on and use an old toothbrush to get all of that garbage on the mould faces off. I give my moulds a quick wipe (just so it is not dripping) and store them away. When I use them again I don't even bother degreasing. Just preheat and go.

BTW - You are using WAY too much lube on the aligment pins. Just a bare touch should do it. FWIW - I don't smoke my moulds. Just MY preference, never saw a need for it.

[DeadHandRed]

ok ta, Kroil might be a hard find in New Zealand, does it go by any other name?

i didnt have too much lube to start with but as a last resort i put some more on because the lead kept sticking. ill look for the kroil and just wait till i get my bullplate i think, otherwise im gonna get frustrated and wreck something..

thanks,
red

[DeadHandRed]

just read some of the Kroil sticky thread, sounds like the Be all End all.

thanks

[casterofboolits]

I clean my Lee moulds with "Barkeeps Friend" which is a kitchen cleanser and a tooth brush. I finish off with "Dawn" dish washing soap and rinse in hot tap water.

I then apply a dry graphite film spray lube on the bottom of the sprue plate and top of the mould. To remove lead build up I use a single edge razor blade very carefully.

It might also help to remove the sprue plate and stone the bottom of the sprue plate flat and remove any burrs on the edges of the sprue plate.

[44man]

Your are cutting molten lead, let the sprue get hard. You should get nothing on the mold top or under the sprue.
I use Bullplate or Mold prep to just keep things lubricated where it is needed, pivot, etc.
Get rid of the Alox and you don't need to smoke. That mold is WAY over greased. All you need is a very light film of Bullplate on those surfaces.
I still have my original Lee molds and some have never had lube other then a little Mold Prep, (graphite) on the insides and I have never worn one out. Most wear is from being in a hurry and slamming the blocks shut, close it gently.
The worst thing Lee did was to tell guys to use boolit lube on blocks.
You are going to have fun cleaning that thing and might have to resort to Scotch Brite pads.
This Lee has probably cast 10,000 boolits. I get stuck making my friends boolits too.

[blackthorn]

Until you get the Bullplate, once you have cleaned the mould, try using just a VERY lite skim of 2-cycle oil.

[Fritz D]

I use the following technique to remove lead buildup from Lyman mould blocks and spruce plates. I find it works best if the mould and sprue plate are still hot. You will definitely want to use a good pair of gloves and eye protection when doing this. I have used this technique many times with cast iron blocks, I have no idea if there may be warping issues with aluminum blocks. With the mould blocks closed, carefully apply a bit of bullet lube to the lead deposit. With your dipper, carefully pour a stream of molten lead over the deposit for several seconds (hold your mold over your pot while you’re doing this). The lead deposit will usually melt and most of it will run off. You may have to do this a few times (re-apply lube/pour lead) to get everything. Vigorous rubbing with a coarse rag (the block still has to be hot) will usually get the last traces of lead. Same technique works on the sprue plate, but it is usually easier to remove it from the mould. Hold it with a pair of pliers, with some sort of padding on the jaws. IF you are careful, you can do this without getting any lube in your mould cavities and contaminating them. Recently I ordered some Bull Plate Sprue Lube, so hopefully I will not have to use this technique in future.

[DeadHandRed]

Thanks guys, taken all advice on board


Your are cutting molten lead

i think youre right 44man ill take notice of this.

[onondaga]

Removing the lead smudges. It is so tempting to use a wire brush or an Exacto knife, isn't it? Just don't do that on the aluminum. It is so easy to ruin an aluminum mold. For the sprue plate, I will remove it and torch it hot with a small butane pencil torch and brush that with a brass brush but not the aluminum. I will heat the aluminum with the same torch carefully watching the lead and then use a wooden tool like a Popsicle stick or tongue depressor. Actually I have some Osage Orange sticks that I use. The sticks will get the lead off if the lead is hot enough.

The toughest place to get the lead out is the vent lines and the perimeter of the steel location pins. A sharp stick and heat will do it!

Before starting with the sticks and heat I would scrub the mold with Comet, and a small scrub brush and water. Before I work on the lead I examine the mold carefully with a magnifier hood on my head. The 4X magnification really helps spot problems.

I use High Heat Never Seize grease for a mold lubricant in the guide grooves and guide pins and their mates. I use a special brush for this. It is a cheap flux applicator brush that I have shortened the bristle length to 1/4 inch. These short stiff bristles allow me to use the smallest amount of the lube and brush it out to just a shine on the metal. That is all that is needed. I scribble with pencil lead on the mold top and sprue plate bottom and sprue gate indentation and hole.

I don't smoke molds either. If bullets stick, I put on the magnifier and find out why. Sometimes you will see a little mold cavity edge damage that catches the bullet. this can be fixed with the sticks mentioned above and a little rubbing.


I polish my mold cavities when needed with 3 Q-Tips in an electric hand drill chuck. I put toothpaste on the cotton and gently close the mold as I start the drill. You can move this around in the mold and polish it up. of course smaller caliber molds wouldn't need 3 Q-Tips but my .458s do. Rinse and do this a couple times. Works wonders.

Gary