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View Full Version : Replacing the wooden handles on a Lyman small?



Ohio Rusty
01-22-2011, 11:04 AM
I bought online a couple pair of mould handles. One set is Lyman small handles, and both wooden handles are cracked, broken and unrepairable. I have resolved the issue with the seller as they weren't advertised this way. So now I have these mould mount part, but no wooden handles on them. How have others replaced the wooden handles when they went bad, send them to Lyman ?? Will lyman send me new wooden handles ?? You made your own??
Ohio Rusty ><>

C.F.Plinker
01-22-2011, 11:57 AM
I would call Lyman and see if they would replace them at little or no cost to me. If not, I would get some 1 inch diameter hardwood dowel , drill for the shank on the handle, and attach them with J-B Weld or Acraglas.

CJR
01-22-2011, 12:46 PM
What I do is go to Home Depot and buy some 1"D ( or close to this size) hardwood dowel , then go over to the copper plumbing section and buy some copper caps that slip over the hardwood. I drill a small hole through the cap and wood, varnish the handles and drive the handles onto the metal mould tangs. An inexpensive replacement that works well.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,

CJR

cheese1566
01-22-2011, 01:02 PM
Brass crimp ferrules for making/fixing air hoses work great too!

28802

BCall
01-22-2011, 01:04 PM
I had to order some parts from Lee, so I just ordered the wood handles from one of their 2 cavity molds. Drill the hole out and tap them on. Glued on with JB weld, then drilled and installed a 3/32" roll pin so I know they aren't coming off. I don't think the roll pin is really necessary though as I haven't had any of the JB weld come off on any of my other handles. They were $1.50 each and already finished. Of course Lee charges $4 shipping, so if you don't need other parts it's not as good of a deal.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh259/blcall/SN851394.jpg

fryboy
01-22-2011, 01:18 PM
i made a few sets on a lathe as i had the lathe and the time , i advertised one set for sale ... sold the sizer handle but not the mold handles - oddly enough after i pulled the add a couple casting sessions later i had a handle crack :P the roll pin trick on the lee handles is always good ! seems that most my handles are lee six cavity as they fit so many molds but from time to time they do work loose and heat kills the epoxy bond eventually if trying that route

Ohio Rusty
01-22-2011, 01:45 PM
Thanks all for the info so far. I'll need two different size drill bits to make handles. The metal part of the handle that insert into the wood (the shank) is 3/8's for a couple off inches, then tapering down to 5/16's for another inch or so. I probably have those drill bits. I bet I can find good hard oak dowels and drill them out. Thanks also Cheese and CJR for the ferrule ideas. I wondered what I was going to do about that. I don't think I have any pipe in those sizes I can cut off.
Ohio Rusty ><>

Calamity Jake
01-22-2011, 03:28 PM
Hardware store wood file handles works good.

c3d4b2
01-22-2011, 05:45 PM
Here is what I came up with to avoid trying to drill the hole in the end of the dowl. They are not the most aesthetic, but they are functional.

I went to to Menards (lumber yard box store) and bought a pair of grill tongs for $2.00. I pulled the metal pieces out, enlarged the hole (the pilot hole was already there :) ), cut the end 3/8" lengthwise in a star pattern and then wire wrapped the ends.

smokemjoe
01-23-2011, 03:19 PM
I have used a blue silicon that is used to make head gaskets, Comes in a tube. Put this inside the handles and will never come off.