Reaming a factory sizing die

[gnoahhh]

Has any one here gone to the trouble of reaming the neck of an existing die to accommodate a larger neck, ie: .30-30 to .35/.30-30? I'm merely looking to save on the cost of a custom die.

Am I correct in assuming that the die would absolutely have to be annealed first, then reamed/polished to final neck diameter, and re-heat treated? Has anyone actually done this and if so are there any pit falls I'm not aware of? A tool&die maker buddy will fix me up with the proper chucking reamer.

I thank you and my Savage 1899 thanks you!

[felix]

Yes, correct you are correct for at least reaming RCBS dies. Custom dies would be cheaper and more satisfactory in the long run. ... felix

[fireball168]

I've done several without annealing when I've been in a hurry for something.

+/- .020" increments seems to work fairly decent.

One of the sizing dies I use for case forming has had several thousand pieces through it, still working like a champ (Hornady 25 WSSM opened up to 30 caliber) without heat treating the new neck.

[jaguarxk120]

Go look at the Redding web site they have a interchangeable bushing sizing die. You can change out the sizing bushing in .001 increments.

[fireball168]

.369" is the largest bushing Redding sells.

Probably going to need a .380" +/- based on the measurements I've made.

CH4D has made some off sized ones from time to time, or find somebody with a chucking reamer close to what you need.

[kokomokid]

Look at the ones Buckshot makes.

[Pavogrande]

I am with felix on the rcbs dies -- I had one with a stuck case and in frustration bored the remnants of the case out on the lathe. The toolbit just skidded over the die surface with no damage to the die. Harder than the hubs of hell.

[Charlie Sometimes]

I made some push through sizer dies from old Herters seater dies once.
44 caliber seater dies work good for 45-70 or larger calibers- mine were for lubing maxiballs.
They were not heat treated apparently, as they were not that hard to drill out to near size before honing to final size.
I did run into another die of unknown brand that was REAL hard and could not be drilled out- I honed it to size. Took forever as it was much harder than I expected. Sizers need the hardness, but not seaters.

Some people say that annealing the dies to be reworked like what you intend will warp them, but some individuals on this forum have done this without apparent side effects, from what I have previously read. A steady, even, controlled heat would seem to be the most logical approach to prevent warpage.

Just my 2 cents.