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View Full Version : new lee molds, best way to lubricate sprue bushing?



sh00ter787
01-13-2011, 12:04 PM
just got my first set of molds and hope to start churning out some boolits this weekend :)

in the instructions it says about desgreasing the molds then heating them up and lubricating the sprue bushing with bullet lube. I dont have any bullet lube to hand (and only alox on its way - hey im a REAL beginner!).

What would you guys suggest as a lubricant for the sprue, or is it even felt necessary?

Regards

theperfessor
01-13-2011, 01:10 PM
Don't follow Lee's advice to use bullet lube or you'll end up with a baked on mess! I recommend BullPlate sprue lube, you can get it from the Bullshop, one of the site's sponsors. It's the best. Until then try a little high temp anti-sieze or some two stroke engine oil.

BullPlate lube is great stuff, a little goes a long way.

mooman76
01-13-2011, 09:28 PM
What theproffesor said and light on the lube. You don't want to get it in the cavities. I use a Qtip to apply.

geargnasher
01-14-2011, 12:00 AM
Bullplate is good, but for aluminum moulds I much prefer Sprayway #945 or #936 dimethylpolysiloxane spray lubricants, wet a Q-tip with it and apply very sparingly to the bottom of the sprue plate, around the hinge screw, the alignment wedges and alignment pins. Keep it out of the cavities or it will prevent good fillout just like oils or greases will. Reapply after mould is up to casting temp, and every 20 or so pours for the first session to get it to soak into the pores of the metal. You shouldn't need to apply it but once a session at the most from then on.

Gear

zxcvbob
01-14-2011, 12:06 AM
I use high-temperature grease (lately, a really sticky lithium-based boat trailer and marine grease.) Just a tiny bit on a Q-tip.

onondaga
01-14-2011, 12:09 AM
I unscrew the screw, wipe out the tapped hole with Q-Tip. Degrease the screw and bushing with 409 and rinse. I use a short bristled brush to very thinly apply a shine with high heat Neverseize lube to the parts and threads. I also apply the thinnest amount to the area of the sprueplate and mold top in the area that can't be reached after assembly.
Gary

sh00ter787
01-14-2011, 12:11 PM
many thanks for the replies, im here in England so most of the brand lubes that have been mentioned unfortunately mean nothing to me!

so, a high temp grease applied sparingly with a q tip sounds like the way its going - thanks :D

montana_charlie
01-14-2011, 01:42 PM
so, a high temp grease applied sparingly with a q tip sounds like the way its going - thanks :D
Even in England there are bound to be auto mechanics who want to prevent sparkplugs and exhaust manifold bolts from seizing in their holes.

"Anti-seize compound" is the stuff several have mentioned, they just named it incompletely. It's designed to lubricate in temperatures as high as 1000 degrees Farenheit. I don't know of any wheel bearing grease which comes close to that.

If a wheel bearing gets much above 200 it will blister your hand, and the rubber seals will scorch.

CM

Ben
01-14-2011, 02:07 PM
"Anti-seize compound"

Yep, some good stuff.

Ben

dromia
01-14-2011, 02:09 PM
PM your address and I'll send you some Bullplate.

As well to start as you mean to finish from the get go.

454PB
01-14-2011, 02:23 PM
I haven't use any lube on my Lee moulds in 25 years and they cast great.

geargnasher
01-14-2011, 02:51 PM
Even in England there are bound to be auto mechanics who want to prevent sparkplugs and exhaust manifold bolts from seizing in their holes.

"Anti-seize compound" is the stuff several have mentioned, they just named it incompletely. It's designed to lubricate in temperatures as high as 1000 degrees Farenheit. I don't know of any wheel bearing grease which comes close to that.

If a wheel bearing gets much above 200 it will blister your hand, and the rubber seals will scorch.

CM

CM, while I've actually used it per what Gary mentioned, the stuff isn't really a lubricant since it has very poor flow properties, but it works ok for the low-travel of a sprue plate. Anti-seize compound is usually formulated using nickel powder and a petroleum soap base and is designed for static applications, i.e. put it on threads or whenever you have dissimilar metals in high-load contact with each other. It keeps steel and aluminum from electro-chemically growing to each other under heat and pressure, but isn't intended for moving parts.

Gear

zxcvbob
01-14-2011, 02:52 PM
Even in England there are bound to be auto mechanics who want to prevent sparkplugs and exhaust manifold bolts from seizing in their holes.

"Anti-seize compound" is the stuff several have mentioned, they just named it incompletely. It's designed to lubricate in temperatures as high as 1000 degrees Farenheit. I don't know of any wheel bearing grease which comes close to that.

If a wheel bearing gets much above 200 it will blister your hand, and the rubber seals will scorch.

CMThe grease that I'm using has a dropping point of 500° F. The molds sometimes could get that hot, but that just means the grease melts, not burns. It's working for me. Bullplate or an antisieze compound might work better I don't know.

sh00ter787
01-14-2011, 03:15 PM
i was thinking of using a product we have over here (apologies if you have it also!) called copper ease - its used as a rotor lube because of its really high melting point

Dromia - thanks for your kind offer, I did look on your site but didnt see it! pm will be on its way

i really appreciate all of the replies and advice - when i started reloading over 20 years ago now (my how time flys!) getting this kind of informative stuff that can be looked back on was unheard of and whilst books give excellent info they cant impart the kind of experience that is important for all of the little (and sometimes big!) stuff that most overlook!

montana_charlie
01-14-2011, 03:27 PM
CM, while I've actually used it per what Gary mentioned, the stuff isn't really a lubricant since it has very poor flow properties, but it works ok for the low-travel of a sprue plate.
Whatever you say (sigh!)...

dromia
01-14-2011, 04:28 PM
Andy PM sent.

geargnasher
01-15-2011, 03:58 PM
Whatever you say (sigh!)...

I'm sayin' if it works for you, fine, it worked decent for me too, but I've used much more effective and less messy products and that I'd recommend those to a fellow caster before I'd recommend nickel anti-seize compound. If you've never used "wet" silicone spray lube on an aluminum mould, perhaps you should go outside of your box and try it. Bullplate works on aluminum too, but I don't like the way it stains the blocks like someone spit tobacco juice all over it.

Gear

kelbro
01-16-2011, 10:52 AM
Permatex anti-seize compound works great for me.

cajun shooter
01-17-2011, 01:05 PM
Dromia, Let me say that is very nice of you taking care of our new member with Bullplate. It is the best thing for molds but the aluminum almost cry for it. 454 I think that as long as you have been casting you should at least give Bullplate a try. Your molds and sprue plates will stay slick and easy to use. No pressure to use a hammer. Even though you are here in the USA I would be more than happy to extend you a offer of free Bullplate to try. I will pay postage and all if you pm me with your info . Take Care David

dromia
01-21-2011, 05:31 PM
Thank you David.

sh00ter787
01-21-2011, 06:11 PM
well Dromia's Bullplate works a charm, you can tell the difference in resistance with it on the mold - although you can't really see it on there, a little certainly goes a long way!

leadman
01-21-2011, 10:54 PM
Bullplate works great on the parts of presses, luber/sizers, etc.
Also works great on the bearings on the Black& Decker toaster oven sliding door. They squealed real bad until I lubed them with Bullplate. Lasts about a year.