Ingot Molds

[1972]

I need a little advice on ingot molds. I have a lot of WW lead that I want to melt down, clean up, and pour into ingots that would be suitable for use in the Magma "Master Caster" size electric melting pot.

First of all, can those of you who are using that pot please tell me what would be the ideal size of ingot to cast for use in it? What size would fit best?

Secondly, where can I get such a mold? I know I can make molds out of angle iron but I thought if I could buy a couple of good ones that would be a better way to go. There are lots of 1 pound molds, but that's awfully small. I think the Magma is a 40 pound pot, so I would think a 5 pound mold would be better - but I can't find such a thing.

Is it best just to make my own? Should I go the "muffin tray" route?

Any thoughts?

[imashooter2]

Member D Crockett is selling 4 gang angle iron molds at a price that seems very reasonable. Says they cast at 2.5 - 3 pounds each.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=101525

[D Crockett]

1972 I use a master caster and can add 2 and sometimes 3 ingot at a time to my master caster with out it freezing up on me and not stop casting and these ingot stack real well no beating or banging on them like some moulds I have just flip them over and the ingots fall out D Crockett

[Dale53]

I had a local welder friend make up a couple of the angle iron moulds for me ( I have a couple of RCBS bottom pour pots). The 2" x 6½" casts an ingot that weighs from 3½-5 lbs depending on how full you cast it:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/QIngotmoulds031.jpg

If you make these yourselves be sure you tilt the end pieces (make a bit of "draft" as the machinists state) to allow easy release of the ingot from the mould. Notice the picture you will see the "tilt"...

When you are smelting, it allows quicker operation (larger ingot moulds allow quicker emptying of the smelting pot). This becomes important when you are smelting several hundred pounds at a time.

I use a number of moulds at the same time that I have accumulated over the years:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/QWinter2009andleadsmelting-1769.jpg

Dale53

[hunter64]

I take 2" x 1" channel steel and make the length 11" long. I angle the end pieces slightly so the lead doesn't stick and weld each end up with a plate. With normal WW it makes exactly 5 lbs and is ideal for a 20 lb pot, long and skinny and melts quickly.

With my dremel tool I engraved L (Lead), WW (for wheel weights), 50/50 (for tin/lead or lead/WW for hollow points) and Lino into the base of the mold. Then when I pour the ingot and it cools I simply take a hammer and smash flat the engravings that it is not so if it is WW, I then pound down all the other markings except WW.

I have been experimenting with my friends mill and we have come up with a relief cut for the lettering so all you would have to do is stamp and X beside the one it is and the lettering is recessed so they stack nicely.

Weld up two side by side with the lettering, weld a nut on the side and make up a treaded handle and away you go.

[lwknight]

If you don't want to weld , get a 3X5 bread pan. Fill it to your hearts desire. It will make 10 pound ingots at near full and the 10 pounders will fit in a lee #20 pot.
Fill it half way for 5 pound ingots.

[686]

there was some one on here that was making 6 lb ingot molds. i bought 8 of them and they work good. it is about 6"x2.5"x1.25" .i have magma 90 lb. pot and did have the 40 lb. they work in both. the shape stores good also. i just do not remeber who it was.

[Floydster]

I cast some ingots in muffin tins this afternoon, how in the heck do I get them out ??? Pounded on the bottom of the tins to no avail.
Thanks for input:)
Floydster

[Dale53]

Some muffin tins are tin plated to reduce rust (tin is fully compatible for food stuffs). At any rate, if they were tin plated, your ingots are soldered to the muffin tins...

Dale53

[Floydster]

Thanks Dale, now where are my tin snips:)
Floydster

[Horace]

Lodge mfg makes very good ingot molds.

Horace




http://www.lodgemfg.com/Logic-bakeware.asp

[Markbo]

I am using single molds from D. Crockett instead of the gang molds. They work perfectly well and the ingots stack well too.

[ANeat]

Ive made all mine from channel iron. You can make them whatever size by using different size iron.

I used 3" wide for mine. Makes good 5lb ingots and 3 will stand up in an RCBS pot

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/aneat/Lead/Ingot2.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/aneat/Lead/Smelt3.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/aneat/Lead/ton.jpg

[a.squibload]

I'm no expert welder BUT

thinking make the pieces fit pretty good and weld from the outside
the ingots might release easier.
Hard to grind the corners smooth when the welds are on the inside.
Don't know if it makes that much difference.

[Dale53]

a.squibload;
Actually, mine are welded from the inside and present NO problem. I now have three of them working...

Dale53

[imashooter2]

I'm no expert welder BUT

thinking make the pieces fit pretty good and weld from the outside
the ingots might release easier.
Hard to grind the corners smooth when the welds are on the inside.
Don't know if it makes that much difference.

Weld from the inside with a reasonably smooth bead and the ingots will drop right out. Weld from the outside and lead can get down into the spaces between the parts and lock the ingots into the mold.

[jmsj]

I welded up some ingot molds very similar to ANeat. They are made from 1"X2"X 6" channel iron w/ a 5 degree angle on the ends(these drop right around 3# w/WW). When I cut the channel iron I set up a jig and was able to cut them all to the same length. Since they were all the same length and there were no visible gaps I was able to only weld up the outside. I thought if they leaked I would weld up the inside. I was pleasently surprised when they didn't leak.

[Ervin]

Haven't tried this myself but if you have issues with the cracks on the inside of a outside welded mould think about JB weld. JB told me its maximum heat range is 600 degrees. Might work as a filler. Have several channel iron moulds outside welded and no problem.
Ervin

[hunter64]

For all mine I just used an adjustable mitre saw with a metal cut off wheel. This way the 5 deg. angle cut on the end is nice and smooth and you don't need to weld on the inside of the mold at all. Put 4 of them together and weld all at once and with the ends perfectly cut you really don't need to weld all the way around but I do anyways.

[a.squibload]

Hmm, looks like either way works OK, assuming good fit on outside weld.
My welds are not always perfect and I wondered if inside weld made a mold "sticky".
I have some 2" angle iron, thought about making ingot molds with it.
Might be easier to just weld the inside.
Thanks!

[ANeat]

Squib I tried it both ways and I always had problems getting that perfect fit when trying for an outside weld. Just the slightest gap and the ingots would stick.

I just ran the weld a little "hot" and the bead lays down nice and flat. Never had any problems after welding on the inside and a "perfect" fit wasnt necessary

[dlviolin]

We're in the process of welding up some angle iron molds thanks to friend Andy. Does anyone use a release agent on these? If so, what do you use? Pam? Silicone? WD40? PB Blaster?
Thanks,
Dan in almost not freezing Kansas City

[Dale53]

I haven't needed a release agent in any of mine. I just flop mine down onto a pile of ingots and they pop right out. I use heavy leather welders gloves and work quickly. I much prefer the angle irons that are assembled so that the molds have handles. They are very easy to dump.

Dale53

[a.squibload]

From reading here I understand rusty ingot molds release better,
I think they were talking about muffin pans but should be same with angle iron?

[geargnasher]

From reading here I understand rusty ingot molds release better,
I think they were talking about muffin pans but should be same with angle iron?

"Rusty" is relative. I blued my angle-iron moulds with a "rosebud" tip on my oxy/acetalyne torch after bead-blasting them clean, allowed them to air cool slightly, then dunked them in a bucket of dirty engine oil. Nothing sticks to them and they haven't rusted.

Muffin tins need to be allowed or encouraged to rust through the layer of plating (tin maybe?) and wiped out with coarse steel wool or Scotch-Brite pad before casting, the reason here is that the lead WILL solder to the silverish metal plating on the steel muffin pans and you'll have a heck of a time getting them out. If you buy Teflon-coated muffin pans, the Teflon will burn and stick to the ingots, so I would avoid those.

Flaky rust can stick to the ingots and not all if it floats to the top in the casting pot, so there is a potential for some very fine iron oxide dust going into your boolits.

Gear

[justingrosche]

Worth their weight in gold..... well maybe their weight in lead.

[Dale53]

Angle iron ingot moulds, if made properly, do NOT even ATTEMPT to stick. The mould is angled and the ingot weight is relatively heavy. They just PLOP out. Not an issue.

Dale53

[a.squibload]

"Rusty" is relative...

Good idea on the bluing, I only have a cutting tip but could make that work.
Don't get much rust around here so to save gas I'll try the Dale method first & just whack 'em!

I read about lead soldering itself to plated muffin pans.
I have some aluminum pans which should be fine,
but a couple others might be plated, might need some work.
Guess I could pour just a little to see if it sticks.

[Skipper488]

Good idea on the bluing, I only have a cutting tip but could make that work.
Don't get much rust around here so to save gas I'll try the Dale method first & just whack 'em!

I read about lead soldering itself to plated muffin pans.
I have some aluminum pans which should be fine,
but a couple others might be plated, might need some work.
Guess I could pour just a little to see if it sticks.

I had to beat two muffin pans apart with a hammer to get the lead out of them. My wife came to the rescue with some cast iron corn ear muffin pans. They work great, no sticking at all.:drinks:

[saint_iverson]

Quick question, wouldn't've melting the lead out of the pan be easier?? torch/stove top/etc??

[GLL]

jawjaboy made the best angle-iron ingot moulds ever ! I have eight 5-pounders !

RIP Joe !

80 degrees and sunny here in southern California today... almost too hot to render WW ingots ! :) :) :)

Jerry

http://www.fototime.com/FAFCDABCB7A382A/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/5A6777B8FA7EE62/orig.jpg

[Skipper488]

Quick question, wouldn't've melting the lead out of the pan be easier?? torch/stove top/etc??

I beat the cups out of the pan then threw those into the melting pot to get the lead out.

[songdog53]

I use old cornbread stick molds....is cast iron and can dump them fast and ready for more lead plus they fit my lead pot just right. Just stand up 2 or 3 in furnace and will melt down nicely. I have considered the making some from angle iron and would have to wield on inside or if wielded on outside have to use something to seal little cracks or they would hang i think.

[Dale53]

songdog;
Just look at my angle iron moulds at Post #4. They were done by a welder friend. They are welded inside and the sides (handles) are tilted to easily release the ingots. No sticking at all...

Dale53

[GLL]

songdog:

Take a look also at post #31. The moulds are welded inside and out. The quality of the welds is amazing as you can see on the ingots.

The ingots drop out by simply turning the moulds upside down...no hangups !

Jerry

[a.squibload]

That is an excellent "hot glue" job, the welds are very small and smooth.

[D Crockett]

lets just say I am making a 3 cavity mould and I want the ingot to be 10 inches long I cut my cavity material 11.5 inches long put 2 in my jig that I made and wield them together then wield the 3rd one now you have your ingot cavity together then I take that to the chop saw with a metal blade on it cut the ends on a 15degree angle then I cut the end pieces then get another jig that I made put it in a vice to hold it put the end piece in the jig then take the cavity put on the end piece get everything all squared up wield that end up flip it over and do the same thing all over again wielding on the out side what space is not enough for the lead to get into ingots dump out every time I have made single cavity to 4 cavity moulds in this way wish I had a way to put a film of this on youth tube but I don't if any one want pictures of the jigs I make pm me and I will send them to you I have a bunch of these for sale if you want some pm me D Crockett

[bigjake]

jawjaboy made the best angle-iron ingot moulds ever ! I have eight 5-pounders !

RIP Joe !

80 degrees and sunny here in southern California today... almost too hot to render WW ingots ! :) :) :)

Jerry

http://www.fototime.com/FAFCDABCB7A382A/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/5A6777B8FA7EE62/orig.jpg

those are some nice ingots! nice welds on a good design too

[geargnasher]

Here's my solution:

http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16205&d=1254796496

5 degree cant to the ends, welded on the back side, fitted very close to keep ingots from sticking. Makes exactly 1 pounders out of clip-on wheel weights.

Gear

[buyobuyo]

Gear, what size angle iron didn't you use for your mold and how long are the sections?

[geargnasher]

1-1/4" light-duty angle for the troughs and 1" for the ends, length 5-5/16" by 5-1/4" giving the draft so the ingots don't get stuck. The inside is almost 1-1/16" inside the "ell".

Gear

[Dale53]

I like a LOT of ingot moulds - the more the merrier! I want a mix of 3-5 lbs mixed up with ½-1 lb ones. The large ones to speed up the operation and the smaller ones to help alloy.

Using 2" angle iron about 6" long making as many moulds as I can, I can stand up three or four of these in my RCBS pots for melting. After the first batch melt in the casting pot, then I add the second round to fill the pot.

My hope is to reduce the time it takes to smelt to a necessary minimum of time. This is one operation (smelting) that I consider a chore. When you do several hundred pounds at once it is VERY helpful to have someone help you. I like to swap labor with a buddy. We can pool the moulds and make real time. The most I have done in one day with my six quart dutch oven and turkey fryer is 1000 lbs of scrap lead. I suspect, that at my age, that much work in one day would about put me down. However, last year my brother and I smelted 650 lbs in one afternoon without much trouble.

When I work alone, then a couple hundred pounds proves to be enough at one time. I guess it's the natural cost of getting old...not complaining, you understand, just stating facts as I see them.

Dale53

[buyobuyo]

1-1/4" light-duty angle for the troughs and 1" for the ends, length 5-5/16" by 5-1/4" giving the draft so the ingots don't get stuck. The inside is almost 1-1/16" inside the "ell".

Gear

Thanks for the details. From your dimensions, it sounds like you used 1-1/4"x3/16" angle.

[Boolseye]

look around at "old stuff" stores for old cast iron cornbread pans. They make Perfect ingot molds

[frankenfab]

I went and bought $20 worth of 3" channel on Friday. I made these quick and dirty bar molds on Saturday in 2 hrs. I too, had to weld mine on the inside because the vise on my chop saw is crappy and I had a few big gaps at assembly. LOL, I only needed one 4 banger, my pot was too small to utilze all 14 molds,

But they worked great. I smelted 918# of bars this weekend, and I probly got 250# of scrap steel from the clips.

It was a fun weekend.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=479&pictureid=3292

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=479&pictureid=3293

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=479&pictureid=3294