My Dream Single Stage

[thehouseproduct]

I hate removing primer pocket crimps. I want a press that can combine full length resizing with primer pocket swaging. If I could combine those steps, it would be a huge time saver. Is everyone agreed that a case rim is not strong enough to hold it for swaging?

[thehouseproduct]

What does the linkage for a Dillon 1050 look like?

[Kevin Rohrer]

RCBS makes a primer pocket swaging die. If you used the all-steel, CH '444', 4-station press, you could add that die to one station and still three stations left.

1. Rear station: deprime/resize
3. Front station: swage primer pocket
2. Left station: Prime and add powder station:
4. Right-hand station: seat bullet and crimp

The base press:
http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv29/KevinRohrer/Reloading/IMG_0192.jpg


With goodies added:
http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv29/KevinRohrer/Reloading/IMG_0200.jpg

[1hole]

Combining those sizing and decapping and primer pocket swagging functions in one step would be nice but it's physically impractical.

Case rims are not sufficently strong to withstand the pressure required to properly swage a primer crimp out.

[Kevin Rohrer]

1Hole may be right. I never really used my swaging die. Instead, I use Dillon's.

[thehouseproduct]

I never mentioned decapping in the same process. I have a swaging die, it works fine. I'm working up a design now, I'll post it tomorrow or tonight. I shoot lots of black rifles and have tons of free 556 to process.

[noylj]

For a multi-station press, I would think that the Lee Classic Turret might be right up your alley. I love my Forster Co-Ax, but not for swaging primer pockets.
The RCBS primer pocket swager works great on a regular single-stage, but I couldn't figure out how to adopt it to my Forster.

[runfiverun]

best iv'e ever seen for speed and good is the dillon.
open close handle open

[liljohnnie]

@ thehouseproduct,if you have ALOT of military brass to process you might benefit from buying a 1050. I have heard of people buying them just to deprime and swage primer crimps in large volume. And yes, you will tear the case rim off if you try swaging the primer pocket without supporting it on the web,inside of the case

@ Kevin Rohrer, I have a 3 station Texan press i just acquired that is similar to your C&H.If there is some way you can use your RCBS swaging die on that press without too much creative rigging i for one would be very interested in knowing how as i have a sizeable amount of old military 30-06 brass to process soon and would love to use this press for that.

[Kevin Rohrer]

Liljohnnie: If you are familiar w/ the Dillon 600 primer pocket swager (check Youtube video if not familiar), when you place a casing on the shaft that guides it onto the swager rod, the shaft supports the casing so the head isn't damaged.

As far as I remember, the same is true w/ the RCBS swager die. The casing goes in a die that has an adjustable metal shaft that supports the case head. You raise the press ram that has the swager attached to it so that it makes contact with the primer pocket and swages out the crimp.

I just checked their site and they still sell it (9495 - PRIMER POCKET SWAGER COMBO) for $37. Frankly, the Dillon is better made and will last longer and is more portable. At $96 though, it ain't cheap.

[1hole]

" I want a press that can combine full length resizing with primer pocket swaging. If I could combine those steps, it would be a huge time saver."

Okay, leave out the decapping; we can't reasonably size and swage primer pockets in a single step.

[thehouseproduct]

Ok, sure we can't. :veryconfu:veryconfu
Unless we made one like this:
http://www.thehousebmx.com/arfcom/Press1.jpg
http://www.thehousebmx.com/arfcom/Press2.jpg
The shell in a standard shellholder goes up into regular full length die with the decapping rod replaced with a larger diameter rod like the RCBS swager.

Adjust the sizing die normally, raise a case up to the top of the sizing die, screw the rod down until it touches the inside of the case, then slowly adjust the rod on the left side until it actuates the arm pressing the swager up into the case bottom. The case is re-sized and supported internally by the rod, and swaged on the bottom.

You could even take it a step further and use a full length bushing die by Redding and eliminate the need to expand the neck as a separate operation.:grin:

[liljohnnie]

OK so maybe swageing on an H style press is a pipe dream. Here is a picture of the swager linkage (http://squibloads.wordpress.com/reloading/get-the-crimp-out/) on a Dillon 1050,not a real good picture but a picture none the less.

edit:Forgot to mention,scroll to the bottom of the post

[thehouseproduct]

@ thehouseproduct,if you have ALOT of military brass to process you might benefit from buying a 1050. I have heard of people buying them just to deprime and swage primer crimps in large volume. And yes, you will tear the case rim off if you try swaging the primer pocket without supporting it on the web,inside of the case

@ Kevin Rohrer, I have a 3 station Texan press i just acquired that is similar to your C&H.If there is some way you can use your RCBS swaging die on that press without too much creative rigging i for one would be very interested in knowing how as i have a sizeable amount of old military 30-06 brass to process soon and would love to use this press for that.

On the link you sent, it shows the CH swager which only holds the case rim. Has anyone used this?

[Kevin Rohrer]

That Ch swager doesn't look to do a very good job. If he tried priming the case he has pictured, it would be a tight fit. I just used my Dillon a few months ago to swage 1k 30/06 cases and they came out looking a bit better than what his picture showed. When I tried priming them, it was a No Go. I have corrected the Dillon's swage depth and am slowing reswaging them. :killingpc

The Dillon 600 is your best bet unless you are a machinist with lots of time on your hands. Frankly, my time is money and the Dillon is saving me lots of time/money. :mrgreen:

[thehouseproduct]

I don't have access to the machine shop myself anymore, but if was only small stuff, I have a guy who will make stuff for me. We will see what I can come up with.

[Kevin Rohrer]

http://www.thehousebmx.com/arfcom/Press1.jpg

That press looks vaguely familiar. :drinks:
http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv29/KevinRohrer/Reloading/IMG_0302.jpg

The Twins. [smilie=l:
http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv29/KevinRohrer/Reloading/IMG_0357-1.jpg

[liljohnnie]

I agree with Kevin that the Dillon 600 is probably the best and fastest method,short of buying a 1050,but i look forward to seeing what you can come up with. I don't think that the CH swager could do the job properly,you would be limited as to amount of force you could apply before the case rim fails,with other swagers you can apply slightly more force than is necessary to ensure the crimp is removed.

[Triggerhappy]

Hey guys, I tend to de-crimp a lot of brass and swear by the Dillon. It will last a lifetime and is relatively fast. Does a very nice job, well worth the money spent.

TH

[azcruiser]

I have the Dillon 1050 which swags and de primes. It doesn't put pressure on the rim because there's a rod that goes into the case and holds or forces the case or doesn't let the case move up in the shell plate when the primer pocket swag cams into the primer pocket works slick for me . Do lots of 223 -9mm-308 no problem it's a little pricey now. But it saves time

[rtracy2001]

Adjust the sizing die normally, raise a case up to the top of the sizing die, screw the rod down until it touches the inside of the case, then slowly adjust the rod on the left side until it actuates the arm pressing the swager up into the case bottom. The case is re-sized and supported internally by the rod, and swaged on the bottom.



Even in the same lot of brass, there can be variation in web thicknes, I don't know if it would be enough to mess up the process though, though you could end up with brass that is not completely sized.

Would it be better to have a 2-part ram?

the outter ram would run the shellholder, and the inner ram would be little more than a swadge rod. The linkage would be the difficult part as it would need to be timed such that the inner rod, reaches the top of its stroke after the outter rod. This way the entire case is supported by the FL size die while the primer pocket is being swadged.