Lubing Lee molds

[Aldeer]

GB 357 mold came today - my first Lee mold. The instructions give CAUTION saying not to forget to lube the sprue bushings and mold pins with alox/beeswax. Is this really necessary? I'm concerned about lube getting into the cavities.

[imashooter2]

Lube is absolutely required if you expect the mold to live a reasonably long life.

[HORNET]

You're probably better off NOT using alox or beeswax. These seem to get everywhere that you don't want them to be, blocking off the venting and making a mess:( . Get a can of spray graphite or moly-d lube. I use some masking tape to mask off the areas that don't need lube (like inside the cavities and over the venting) after cleaning and degreasing. Get the mold warm (so the spray dries fast and doesn't run) and give things a light coat of spray, remove the tape, and go for it.[smilie=s:

[imashooter2]

I use a birthday candle to touch a controlled bit of wax on just the right points. It has worked well for me.

[Bullshop]

Oh your gonna want some Bull Plate lube. You should check the test report.
IMHO there is nothing better for the job. There's plenty of things that work but bull plate is ahead by a country mile.
BIC/BS

[montana_charlie]

The instructions give CAUTION saying not to forget to lube the sprue bushings and mold pins with alox/beeswax. Is this really necessary?
I can't say that lubrication IS necessary, but I believe it is. Therefore, I use substances which are actually engineered to BE lubricants. And, I choose lubricants designed to operate in the temperature range of molten lead.

For threaded areas, and sprue pivots, that is anti-seize compound (which is good to 1000° +). The tiniest dab, applied with a toothpick is sufficient...and remember to wipe up any that oozes out next time you heat the mould, so it doesn't migrate to the cavity (or someplace).

For 'sliding surfaces' like top of the mould and bottom of the sprue plate, spray-on graphite does pretty well. I apply this with a bullet still in the cavity, after the mould cools down. At the same time, spray graphite on all of the outer surfaces and handle jaws to prevent lead from sticking.

I seriously doubt that any kind of 'wax' - once it turns brown and crusty - can have any lubricating qualities left in it. At best, it might turn into a non-abrasive 'washer' that keeps metal surfaces from wearing against each other. But on a sprue plate pivot, the buildup might raise the plate off of the mould...causing bullet base problems.
CM

[Dale53]

I have tried most everything to lube moulds (and they NEED it but in the correct places). Our very own Bullshop's Bull Plate Lube has it all over anything that I have tried. I have now quit looking as I have THE answer.

Dale53

[454PB]

I own 18 Lee moulds, and none of them get lubed. Yes, I used to lube them, but I found that it is not required, in fact they work much better without it.

If you are going to use a lube, use something high temperature as Bullshop and Montana Charlie have advised.

[redneckdan]

c5-a works good too

[MGySgt]

I have ruined a few Lee DC moulds in my younger days and since had stayed away from all Lee moulds until I started using Bull Shops lube. I use his lube on all my moulds (Iron, Steel, Brass and the Lee 6 cavities).

I don't worry about galling anymore or lead smearing on the top of the mould or under the sprue plate, wipes right off with another application of the lude while the mould is hot.

JMHO!

Drew

[35remington]

Lee single and double cavity moulds have a pin and trough alignment arrangement. Since the trough is formed out of the aluminum block, when the mould is up to operating temperature the aluminum gets "sticky", and the pin does not want to go into the trough when it is dry.

Hot aluminum galls very easily, and when the block halves are closed they'll bind instead of closing smoothly and properly. They'll visibly want to misalign.

Warning! This means lube the pin and trough. The pin is steel and can batter the trough when unlubricated mould halves do not match when closed. Failing to do so will wallow the trough out of round, and your mould halves will no longer mate properly. Lee moulds will give pretty decent lifespans if cared for properly, but they'll be junk in very short order if they are not lubricated. You'll find yourself forcing them closed, and a relatively small amount of this means a ruined mould and out of round bullets.

Other moulds are susceptible to the same thing no matter what they are made of, but the Lee mould is particularly fragile when unlubricated. Lee is quite correct in advising that they be lubricated before use.

Use only a minimum of lubricant and you'll have no problem with lube migrating in the cavities. I use spray graphite for the top of the mould and sprueplate and I also apply it when the cavities have bullets in them. A very light touch of wax on the alignment pins and "V's".

[charger 1]

You cannot/should not run parts together dry with no boundary lube when their warm and one is aluminum. It will pick up like crazy....However lee's idea of gloppy stuff on everything is just looking for trouble. Buy a stick of lyman super moly,even if you dont use it as your main lube which I recommend atleast use it on resistance points like you mentioned. On the face between mould and sprue plate rub it some with a fat carpenters pencil once in a while