454casull advice

[clintsfolly]

Well i just can not turn down a great deal! So now i own a 454 Casull SRH with a 2x7 Burris scope. Have found a set of dies. Have to order brass soon but what boolit,powder and primer? Have 2400,imr4227 as for primers Rem7 1/2,Win SR,CCI 400 all on hand. Any ideas ? Clint :cbpour:

[Whitworth]

What do you plan to hunt with it?

[PacMan]

I think that the CCI 400 should be fine and there may even be a case for a Small Rifle Mag.
Unless Hornady brass has inproved over the last 4 years i would not use them. The last ones i used after 2 somtimes 3 reloading (not excessive lods either) they seperated just ahead of the head taper.
As afr as load data i canot help much as i load for a Rifle in .454 now and just beginging to work with it.
Good luck and have your hearing protection ready.Full house loads in a hangun are earspliting.
I sold my SRH in 454 for that reason along with the no fun recoil factor.
Dwight

[clintsfolly]

at this time the whitetail is my main goal . Clint

[RobS]

Your primers, you are better of with mag SR primers as standard SR primers I don't feel provide enough ignition for the slower powders. If you are planning on using powders like Unique etc for lower end to mid house loads then standard primers will work fine. 2400 powder is a good choice for most bullet weights and work from mid house to magnum velocities. IMR 4227 will push heavies around nicely. I've noted since the shift of Hodgdon to discontinue their H4227 that the current IMR 4227 production is now more like their H4227 regarding ambient temp differences in load development. The new IMR is not like the old IMR is what I am saying, it is more like the H4227 being better suited for different outside temps, at least this is my experience.

I personally feel that with the 454 that 300+ grain bullets work best and if you plan on using slower ball powders such as H110, 296, AA#9 etc that a larger bullet is needed so there is less likelihood of top strap/forcing cone erosion. Timing of these slower powders with 300 grain or lighter boolits provide a timing where the powder reaches high pressures right as the base of the bullet clears the cylinder gap. It ends up basically being a sandblaster on steroids effect. Having a longer bullet/heavier bullet and there is a change in the timing of the powders burn and there is less forcing cone/top strap erosion. The big problem with the 357 max (a similar scenario of high pressure rounds with slower powders) was using too light of bullets with powders such as H110/296; it created all kinds havoc for those gun owners.

The Lee 300g RF GC mold is a good option depending on your barrels groove diameter and cylinder throat diameters.

[454PB]

I own several .454's, and have had good service with Starline brass.

As to load recipes, I use H-110/WW296, WC820, and Lil'Gun for maximum effort loads. For reduced pressure loads (as would be needed for game as small as Deer), I use Bluedot.

The Lyman 452424 at 260 grs. is a deadly Deer load. For bigger critters like Elk, the Lee 320 gr. FNGC and Lyman 452651 335 gr. GC are the ticket.

My Ruger SRH has a light hammer, and sometimes fails to ignite CCI 450 primers with their thicker cups. I have not had this problem with the Taurus and Freedom Arms revolvers, or Puma rifle.

[jwp475]

Your SRh may have a slightly short firing pin. My Redhawk does and I going to swap it out

I also like the H-110/296 powder for full power loads. I like and use federal primers. Starline brass is very good IMHO&E

[RobS]

Agreed, Starline brass is very good, maybe a bit soft for the first firing or two, and less expensive vs others. If you are real ambitious you could also look into this thread. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=92064&highlight=454+casull+large+primers

I've sense modified my technique, I still use the #5 bit on the drill press, but use a pocket uniformer tool and finish up with a counter sink to give the opening a small bevel so primers seat easier on the progressive press.

I have better consistency with velocities and have general all around better accuracy.

[doghawg]

I like 2400 in both of my .454's...try around 22 grains under a 300 gr. bullet. That will give from 1200 to 1300 fps depending on barrel length and whether jacketed or cast. My 7 1/2" FA is sighted in for that load and 19 gr. of 2400 under a 270 SAA shoots to the same POI. A couple of other loads are 13 gr. of Blue Dot under a Lee 255 gr. RF and also a 250 gr. Nosler jacketed over 10.5 gr. of 231...all mild loads and good shooters without changing the scope adjustments.

If you're new to the .454 you should load up some heavy doses of 296 or H110 to get an idea what its capable of but ......

[DragoonDrake]

One thing that I did not see stated is if you use H110 or hot loads of 2400, make sure you have a good crimp on the bullet. I like to do this in two steps; I just get a little more consistency that way (I mean at the press not on paper). Use just enough bell to get the bullet started and not any more. It is bullet tension with the case that gives you the best ignition. The crimp is only for bullet jump. Personally I like 25grs of 2500 and a 300-310gr bullet to shoot paper and 31grs of imr 4227 for my hunting load. I think the 454 is addicting to work with so be careful.

[Lloyd Smale]

what you have will work fine. the load suggestions give will also work fine. personaly i prefer aa9 and 110/296 and wc297 but I so use 2400 and 4227 also. Ive about standardized on standard ww small rifle primers as theyve allways seemed to give me better accuracy in my 454 loads across the board with the various guns ive loaded for. When your really standing on the pressure levels nothing works better then either 110 or 297. Bullets that have worked well for me are the rcbs 300 swcgc, the ballistic cast 320 and 350 lfngc. Some of the group buy molds have worked well too but you cant just buy those molds. All three of those bullets have shot real well in about every 45 cal gun ive tried them in. Keep in mind the 454 runs at a higher pressure level then about any other handgun and requires a harder alloy to hold up to those pressures. I at least would use an alloy that is 18bhn if you want the best accuracy when loading to the higher pressures. 5050 ww/lyno works as does water dropped ww.

[clintsfolly]

thanks for all the tips please keep them coming! Clint

[RobS]

More on boolits. A few production molds have been stated as good designs, I would be cautious with new Lyman molds and if you do decide to buy one that you purchase from a company that has a good return policy.

Another alteranative a bit more expansive, but not a whole lot, is to have a custom mold made. You have the ability to design a boolit that will fit your throats perfectly and create whatever design you want. Some of the custom mold makers, for a nominal fee, will cut a plain base and gas check in the same mold saving the cost of buying two different molds.

I started out with production molds from RCBS, Lyman, and Lee and where they worked, some better than others, my custom molds produce the right diameters and boolits to the specs I like and IMO worth the little extra dough.

I have a few designs cataloged over at www.accuratemolds.com that have worked very well from my SRH 454 casull; 45-300B and 45-340B and Tom can cut GC in those designs if you prefer or can change the diameters a bit etc. He'll do whatever you want within his tooling limits.

I've also had nice molds come from Veral at LBT http://www.lbtmoulds.com/moulds.shtml as well as nice ones from Dan at Mountian Molds http://www.mountainmolds.com/

Forum members here also make quality molds as well. BaBore does great work and I have a few of his molds http://www.brp.castpics.net/ My dad has had good results from SwedeNelson a.k.a. NOE with his group buy mold. MiHec does wonderful work as well, but I have not used one of his molds...........yet :). http://www.mp-molds.com/

[clintsfolly]

Just ordered some Starline brass and a buddy is loaning me his 45-270 mold. Hope to get this shooting for the 20th. we have a late doe season here in lower MI and i want to use my new toy!Clint

[RobS]

Sweet: Let us know how it goes for you as we enjoy stories.

[bbailey7821]

300g GC, CCI small magnum rifle primers, 25g W296.

[Heavy lead]

I have had good results with the Winchester WSR with 296 under a 300 grain XTP using 29.5 grains, don't shoot that load much it's safe in my revolver (book max shows something a bit over 30). Do yourself a favor and obtain some Hogue tamer grips, not only do they have a gel insert in the grip, but the grip is more handfilling and fills the area where the web of the hand rests. I usually like wood grips, large ones on the kickers, but not on the SRH, these work the best on this I've tried. I shoot a lot of loads with a Federal 205, 11 grains of Unique and a Doughty 300 grain plain base cast boolit, it shoots good and kills these Michigan deer just fine. My throats are .4525 and size boolits to .454, my SRH will not chamber the RCBS270SAA in Casull cases when sized to .454, which gives me the best accuracy, the Doughty boolit is perfect in this as the front driving band (it's a WFN type boolit with a slight step at the drive band) is undersized at .450 while the middle and rear band are a full .454 when sized (they drop at .455).
It's a shooter, I've taken the scope off mine and shoot it well at 50 yards, best shooter I've had along with the BFR in .475.

[Love Life]

I have always used 2400 powder loaded to max per the Lyman 48th edition manual with a 255 gr Lee RNFP, starline brass, and CCI 400 SR primers. My first batch of brass is going on it's 5th reload this weekend and still does not need to be trimmed, and shows no signs of splitting or anything else. I have never had an issue with ignition from humid summer temps in North carolina to temps below freezing in northern California. Those are my experiences with this awesome caliber.

[saz]

I have been using the Lee 255 and 300 with very good results. I used to use H-110 for my full house 454 and .44 mag with very good results but I have since switched to Lil Gun. All the same velocities (even better out of longer barrels) and WAY cleaner burning. For lighter loads I have been using Trail Boss, and I am just starting to use Unique. All loads are lit with remington 7 1/2 from 80 degrees all the way down to -10 with no problems. When I used CCI small rifle mag my groups opened up a little. I have a pile of winchester brass I got cheap, but I have a little bit of starline which is very good also, and as the WW wears out it will get replaced with starline as it is about half the price if you order directly from starline.

[badbob454]

Your primers, you are better of with mag SR primers as standard SR primers I don't feel provide enough ignition for the slower powders. If you are planning on using powders like Unique etc for lower end to mid house loads then standard primers will work fine. 2400 powder is a good choice for most bullet weights and work from mid house to magnum velocities. IMR 4227 will push heavies around nicely. I've noted since the shift of Hodgdon to discontinue their H4227 that the current IMR 4227 production is now more like their H4227 regarding ambient temp differences in load development. The new IMR is not like the old IMR is what I am saying, it is more like the H4227 being better suited for different outside temps, at least this is my experience.

I personally feel that with the 454 that 300+ grain bullets work best and if you plan on using slower ball powders such as H110, 296, AA#9 etc that a larger bullet is needed so there is less likelihood of top strap/forcing cone erosion. Timing of these slower powders with 300 grain or lighter boolits provide a timing where the powder reaches high pressures right as the base of the bullet clears the cylinder gap. It ends up basically being a sandblaster on steroids effect. Having a longer bullet/heavier bullet and there is a change in the timing of the powders burn and there is less forcing cone/top strap erosion. The big problem with the 357 max (a similar scenario of high pressure rounds with slower powders) was using too light of bullets with powders such as H110/296; it created all kinds havoc for those gun owners.

The Lee 300g RF GC mold is a good option depending on your barrels groove diameter and cylinder throat diameters.

i concur with robs i shoot the lee 300gr. bullet @ 22 bhn and use the aa#9 powder as it burn cleanly and leaves no residue(unburned powder ) and have had great sucess in target shooting i shoot un-gas checked for lighter loads,(45-55,000) psi and gas checked for near max loads @ 56-60,000 psi in my ruger super redhawk :cbpour: