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flatbed
12-10-2010, 08:50 AM
OK........I have read several threads about using golf clubs cut off and using the tube part of the shaft for removing boolits from pan lube. Will someone who uses this brilliant tool please describe how to determne where to make the cut of the shaft to match the diameter of theboolit being lubed ? As always, the people on this forum are an invaluable source of knowledge.......

atom73
12-10-2010, 09:29 AM
My guess is that you start by cutting well below where you think your internal diameter will match the outer diameter of your bullet. Then you work your way back with a series of cuts, trial and error, until you get to a good match. If you have a bench grinder you can cut so you are just undersized and then grind it back. Its ok if you are a little oversized, especially if you are going to resize after the lube process.
Mike

fryboy
12-10-2010, 03:21 PM
drop a boolit down the shaft , cut just above where it sticks , use ur inside outside deburrer to deburr ( simplest way i know to do it ) and cut to desired length , a bit of tape around it helps make it easier to hold onto

flatbed
12-10-2010, 03:37 PM
Thanks Fryboy.......that is a great idea !!!!

Tom-ADC
12-10-2010, 04:04 PM
I made one of the tools for my 45-70 bullets, but to be honest at least for me just using a wooded dowel to plus them out of the lube is faster and bullets are lubed nicer not a bunch of excess lube on them.

flatbed
12-10-2010, 05:46 PM
Used a Dremel tool and wound up with one @ .453, one at .359. and one at .310.....I'm set for the pan of lube.....Thanks guys for your feed back.

Rocky Raab
12-10-2010, 06:15 PM
Not a golf shaft, but I've found no better handle for a Kake Kutter tool than one of these ...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/RockyRaab/IMG_0551.jpg

catmasher
12-10-2010, 06:56 PM
thye just keep POPPING out the top.
i use golf balls for all kind of things like that.

Dan Cash
12-10-2010, 07:32 PM
I made one of the tools for my 45-70 bullets, but to be honest at least for me just using a wooded dowel to plus them out of the lube is faster and bullets are lubed nicer not a bunch of excess lube on them.

Tom has it exactly right. To add to this a little, visit your lumber yard and buy a short piece of sill foam (closed cell foam about 3/16 thick used between concrete foundation and the sill plate in a building). Take your block of cooled lube, with bullets in it, out of the pan and set them on the sill foam. Push down on the projectile noses with a dowell or block of wood and pop the projectiles free of the lube. You can then pick up the cake and drop the bullets the rest of the way out. The sill foam helps prevent breaking the block of lube. Personally, a "cake cutter" is annoying and wasteful of energy.
Dan

John Boy
12-16-2010, 09:20 AM
visit your lumber yard and buy a short piece of sill foam (closed cell foam about 3/16 thick used between concrete foundation and the sill plate in a building)
Dan, that is one helluva great idea. I use a piece of leather to press on the ogives and push them out while holding the cake in my hands. Get really p'od when the cake breaks because I save my cakes for the various calibers/lengths that I shoot.
Thanks Kindly for Sharing!

Dan Cash
12-16-2010, 10:31 AM
Dan, that is one helluva great idea. I use a piece of leather to press on the ogives and push them out while holding the cake in my hands. Get really p'od when the cake breaks because I save my cakes for the various calibers/lengths that I shoot.
Thanks Kindly for Sharing!

To add one thing to the technique: Let the lube cool only until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pan. It should be slightly warm to the touch. Breaking will be a seldom thing then. Don't refrigerate or leave set for a long time though I do leave overnight when too tired or busy to deal with things. Warm is better.

John Boy
12-22-2010, 12:00 AM
Dan, I usually am in a hurry to get to the next batch going for pan lubing. My technique is:
* With lube pan sitting leveled over the water pan, I turn on a floor fan to cool the liquid so it hardens faster. Then the pan is put in the refrigerator to cool to the extent where the bottom of the pan is very slightly warm to the touch and the lube has separated from the sides of the pan
* That when I remove it from the ice box (easier to spell than refrigerator) and start pushing them out.
In the meantime, I have a 2nd pan working

Haven't tried the sill foam yet. Been looking around for a construction job that is doing the foundation work. Plan to grub a small piece from the workers. Cheap? No, just don't need any extra material stored in the basement

cajun shooter
12-26-2010, 12:05 PM
Dan, I have never tried your method so I can't speak on it. But your statement about Kate Cutters is not what I have found to be true if using the correct one. The ones cut from golf clubs are slick to hold and small to grip. I have quite a few of the ones once made by Lee that work alright. The best way so far though is to use the ones made by Buckshot. He has made me two with metal and he knurls the outside for grip and they have a beautiful finish. They are also long enough for any man to grip and use. I can't say enough about how well they work. For only a few dollars have one made and you might be a convert.

Charlie Sometimes
12-27-2010, 01:56 PM
Sill foam, huh? Good idea.
I'll have to try that on my next batch of pan loobed boolits, instead of a cutter.
Now I have to find a construction site, too! :bigsmyl2:

Loob cutters work best when the loob is hard, but then they are harder to push through some recipes. The golf ball would be a great help too. The knurled grip is nicer, and doesn't take up as much room that way.
I usually warm my lube cutter with a heat gun for slicing ease. Once the loob cake is empty, I refill it with more booits, and add extra loob to fill to proper level (if necessary), the play the heat gun over the mess until it liquifies again. :smile:

zomby woof
12-27-2010, 06:18 PM
I epoxied some flat stock to cases I use as "Kutters". It is definitely very ergonomic.

I place the boolits in the previous cavities in the lube and use a heat gun to gently warm the lube around the boolits. Then after it cools I cut them out. I have a paper towel with some mineral spirits on it to wipe the bottom of the boolit off. They always seem to have a film of lube on them. It works great.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCN0431.JPG