Cast Boolit loading on the Dillon 550..

[MikeSSS]

My plan is to load them in two passes.

Pass One: size the cases on station one and bell the mouths just a bit on station two.

Between the Passes: take the unprimed cases out of the hopper and remove any lube from the inside of the necks and trim to length with a Lee case length trimmer.

Pass Two: prime on station one, throw powder from a Lee Pro Auto Disk on station two, seat bullets on station three, just a touch of crimp on station four.

For bolt action cases I'll use a Lee Collet Die and the Between the Passes process won't be needed. Yes, I'll trim the length every few loadings. But I use 16 gr of 2400 and don't expect the case length to grow much.

For M1 Garand ammo I'll full length resize and the Between the Passes process will be used.

How does this plan sound?

It should go real fast but since I havn't done it yet I might be overlooking things.

[David R]

I load all my rifle boolits and bullets on my dillion. One pass. I wipe the lube off when I put them into the plastic boxes. Works great for me. I bought a collet die for my '06 and will be getting one for my 308. I don't flare because all are gas checked. I do put a good chamfer on the inside of the neck.

Works great for me.

David

[MikeSSS]

Thanks David,

one pass will simplify life for me.

Mike

[garandsrus]

MikeSSS,

For rifle brass, I use the same three step (resize, trim, load) process you do when working with large batches of brass. Generally these steps happen at different points in time. Most of the brass prep is over the winter and the loading is done in the spring/summer.

I don't know of an easy way to check the case length using only the one step process unless you pull every piece of brass out right after sizing and check the length... To me that would be much slower than the three step process.

I tumble the lube (lanolin) off the brass so a piece of tumbler media can end up in the flash hole. A universal decapper die in stage 1 of the loading setup will push any media out of the flash hole without changing the brass at all.

I usually end up processing all the brass I have for a caliber, which could be a substantial amount, and then loading it as needed, knowing that the brass is fully prepped and ready to load.

I have a combination Giraud/Gracey trimmer for .223 and 30-06 (one trimmer, two case holders) so I don't bother with a case length gague any more. I just run each piece of brass through the trimmer each time I size it. It is much quicker than using the gague and then trimming only the cases that need trimming.

John

[MikeSSS]

Just loaded about 20 30-06 rounds on the Dillon 550.

Collet die in station 1, Dillon powder measure in station 2, Lee belling tool in station 3 and Lee seating die in station 4.

The bullet was Lee's 312-155 cast from wheel weights, water quenched and with gas checks, sized to .311. Powder was 16.0 gr of 2400. The boolits were sized using Imperial die wax and lubed after sizing with Liquid Alox.

The belling die or flaring die is set to do very little belling, just enough to prevent lead shaving.

The seating die does a tiny bit of a crimp, just enough to make sure the bullet is concentric in the case.

I'll shoot some off the bench at 100 yards tomorrow and post the results. Most will be used for offhand practice.

If I can't go shooting tomorrow then I'll just cast some more boolits!

A turret press was considered for rifle loading but then I downloaded a video from Lee showing one in action. I watched it many times and kept comparing it to: insert case, hold boolit, pump handle, flip lever....clunk out falls a loaded round. Nah, that pump the handle 4 times to load a round and also have to think about when you should do things is just too complicated and too slow. Still turret presses are neat toys. I keep playing with a 7 holer at Sportsman's Warehouse...

PS the Dillon powder funnel for 30-06, the B 13587 is used for all the bottleneck 30 cal cases. The 6.5 powder funnel for all the 6.5's and the 8mm for all the 8mm's.

The #1 shellholder and #1 buttons are used for.45 ACP, 308, 30-06, 8x57, 6.5x55, 7.5 Swiss, 7.5 French, 7.7 Jap and similar cases. Now, that's convenient and economical too!

The .303 Brit, 7.62x54, 6.5 Jap and 6.5 Carcano need their own shellholders and buttons. Rats.

[Patrick L]

I load on a progressive (not Dillon, but the process would be the same) and I basically load in two steps. Step one is to resize/deprime EVERYTHING, and I may or may not expand case necks at this time. I cycle the cases thru, and the lubed cases just drop off into the hopper.

I then remove the lube, and the type of lube and quantity of cases determines how.

Step two is to then run my dry, processed cases thru expanding (if needed,)priming, charging, bullet seating and crimping, ending up with complete, ready to shoot ammo.

While I realize everyone has their own ways of doing things, I can't imagine the hassle of dealing with lubed cases in the assembly stages. Even though I go thru two steps, the convenience of working with dry cases more than makes up for it. Then again, I tend to load in large batches well before I actually need the ammo, so it works for me.

[straightshooter1]

I've used a Dillon 550 since 1987 and now load 20 different calibers, mostly rifle. I always resize my rifle brass separately, then tumble the lube off. I do the brass in large batches so I always have plenty on hand when I am ready to load.

If you use, for example, Hornady OneShot, and give it a few minutes to dry, you don't have to tumble the lube off. There may be others, but OneShot is the only one I know of that you can safely do this with. (In my earlier days of Dillon 550 reloading, I tried to load in one step with other lubes and had a few misfires where the powder was "lubed", too. Stopped doing that pretty quickly). That being said, it is easier to have a stuck case with rifle brass using the OneShot than with some of the other, stickier, slicker, lubes. I have had two, so when I do the OneShot method with rifle cases (rarely), I take a little more time applying it than is necessary with most spray lubes.

I use OneShot on handgun brass (even with the carbide resizing die) and find that the one step method works. The OneShot makes loading 9mm up to 45 Colt very easy and fast, especially when loading 1K or more at a time.


Bob

[Larry Gibson]

I've been using the 550 for over 15 years and load numerous cartridges on it. I use the same sequence as MikeSSS to load cast bullets in rifle and find it quite satisfactory.

Larry Gibson

[MGySgt]

I must be in the minority - I only load pistol on the Dillon.

I use a single station press (OLD lyman Spartan) to resize and deprime. (I had to have my Dillion rebuilt because of all the grit from resizing on it and it working as an abrasive on the primer arm and other parts).

I clean the cases - wash in acetone (gets ride of bullet lube) then tumble.

Then load in large quanity (1-2 k of 38's or 45, 500 - 1k of 44's).

Works well for me.

Drew

[robertbank]

I don't know where this fits in but after cleaning and trimming cases I follow this sequence. I have an old set of RCBS dies for my 30-06. At station 1 I re-size, decap and prime. Station 2 is the powder measure. I remove powder filled case and measure load to spec. Station 3 I seat bullet and crimp. This kind of makes my Dillon 550 a single stage I guess.

It maybe time to invest in a better set of dies for reloading cast bullets as I would like to "bell" my cases somewhat before seating my cast bullets. Suggestions?

Take Care Eh

Bob

[D.Mack]

Robertbank.... Try a Lee universal mouth expander in station 3 and seat in 4. Cheap tool, but works on everything. DM

[MGySgt]

Robertbank - Station 2 is the powder measure.....

Are you not using a Dillion powder die? If so doesn't it flair the case mouth like the ones for 38/357, 44 and 45ACP?

Drew

[pjh421]

Here's a quick, easy way to remove lube from empty cases or from loaded ammo:

Dribble some laquer thinner or acetone onto an old bath towel you have spread out on the driveway or garage floor (not in the house). Place a pile of greasy cases in the middle and make a tube out of the towel by folding lengthwise into thirds. Grasp the ends and shake left & right maybe 10 times. The lube will be gone. Saves time and tumbling media.

Paul

[robertbank]

No the Dillon "funnel" for the .30-06 doesn't bell the case it just seals it so the powder flows into the case unlike their pistol "funnels".

Take Care Eh

Bob

[Bear4570]

I have been using a Dillion 550 for years and load my rifle stuff in two steps also, except I use a Rock Chucker to decap and resize, then I trim them all using either a Lyman trimmer or a Lee case length trimmer, then prep the necks.

After doing a hundred or so I place them in an old industrial size cookie sheet that is lined with Paper Towel, Spray them with brake cleaner, roll them around a bit, and spray them again. When they dry they go into a bin for future use.

When I get ready to load them I do have a universal decapping die in station one just to make sure that nothing has gotten into the primer hole, reprime and load as normal, powder in station two, bullet in station three and crimp in station four. Has worked well for years.

[madcaster]

Just be careful friends,I did not have a mirror on my Dillon 550 and ended up with a squib load,the next shot putting a big walnut in my barrel.
You may want to add a small mirror to the progressive presses,and keep an eye on the hull being rotated to the seating die.
I still reload,but only on a single stage press!

[JSH]

Have somthing to toss out here on the 550's.
#1 size decap
#2 M die or bell
#3 powder
#4 seat and crimp


Any one see why this wouldn't work? I wish Dillon made a belling die in 30 cal that would work on the longer cases. I still don't know why the have not put a few more calibers on the SDB press, 22 Hornet, 25-20 and the 32-20 just to name a few. I even asked if they would make some "custom", got shot down on that thought too.
Jeff

[scrapcan]

Someone with a lathe could make the case belling die/powder funnel. You would just model it after the pistol die or say the one for a 38-55 (the 38-55 conversion kit I have has the expander for straight wall cases). Might play havoc if you had to return the press to Dillon and you forgot to take the expander out.

[robertbank]

Why not leave the powder die in 2, put a Lee Universal expanding die in three and seat and crimp in 4.

Take Care

Bob

[garandsrus]

JSH,

I have a .30 carbine conversion for a 550B and it DOES have a .30 cal expanding powder die. I haven't tried it with 30-06 or equivalent shells. There is normally a LOT of adjustment in the powder die, so I think the length would be fine. The hole through the die is farily small since it is going inside the .30 cal neck. I haven't compared it to the powder die hole in a .223, but it might be about the same. I do load stick powders with the .223 and don't experience bridging.

I am sure this would work well for ball powders. It would probably work find for flake powders also. I'm not sure about stick powders though.

It might be worthwhile to bore out the hole. It would work fine after that. The expander dies doesn't really have too much stress applied to it so I don't think there would be a problem with strength.

You can buy the powder funnels from Dillon without getting the entire conversion kit.

John

[45 2.1]

Use a collet die that has been modified to neck size / flare and you won't need a belling die. To do this, take the sizing collet out of the die, make sure it will take a fired case loosely, put a fired case in a shell holder and place in the collet. That case neck will be below the top of the collet. File the top of the collet down to about the top of the case neck and smooth the cut. Taper the inside of the collet neck with a deburring tool or the like so that the end of the case neck won't be sized and will flare out when the case neck is sized by the collet. Reassemble and check for boolit fit until you get it right.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I use a single station press (OLD lyman Spartan) to resize and deprime. (I had to have my Dillion rebuilt because of all the grit from resizing on it and it working as an abrasive on the primer arm and other parts).

This is one feature that's recently come out in a couple of presses I really like. The Hornady LnL AP progressive, the Lee Classic Cast single stage and the Lee Classic Turret press all have a tube that takes the spent decapped primer down away from the press. This keeps all the filth and crud from getting into the press mecchanical workings, which really helps a great deal with press longevity. I really like this feature. Keeps the press very clean, assuming you don't spill powder all over the place. Don't ask me how I know about the powder spill stuff. (grin)

Dave

[Dale53]

When I was shooting big bore, I loaded batches of 1000 at a time. Since it is necessary to lube rifle cases, I thought of and discarded a number of ways to lube and clean the cases afterwards.

Then, I read an article written by Ed Harris that suggested taking Lee's case lube (in the tube) and diluting it 10 parts water with one part Lee's case lube. Mix it thoroughly (Lee's case lube is water soluble). I found a french fryer basket that just fit a fifty caliber ammo can. I filled the ammo can with a sufficient amount of the diluted case lube and dipped the cases into the lube. I decapped them first with a universal decapper. While still in the basket, shake the excess off then spread the cases on newspaper to dry. They dried over night in my environment. The cases are now lubed with a light wax film both inside and out. The lube does NOT harm the powder as long as it is dry before proceeding.

You won't believe how nice the cases size and with NO hanging onto the expanding stem and no "grunch-h-h" from pulling off the expander stem and no case lengthening because of the severe pull from the stem. After you finish loading, there will be very little residue on the cases. You can just wipe them off with a damp cloth or do as I do. I drop them in my large Dillon case vibratory cleaner with couple of caps of mineral spirits and tumble the loaded rounds for fifteen minutes. You do NOT want to tumble a long time as it could, in time, break the powder kernels down. Fifteen minutes will hurt NOTHING.

I keep the tumble media separate. Old, used media for cleaning loaded rounds and the new stuff for cleaning cases.

Dale53