Newbie needs to know

odinohi · 11-20-2009, 03:29 AM

I have a 311008 and a 311316 that I've been trying to cast boolits with. The alloy I'm using is 3lb lino, 6lb ww, 1 lb 50/50 solder. I've casted around 50 boolits so the molds should be up to temp, but I'm still getting lots of little tiny voids and rounded drive bands. The boolits are sticking in the molds pretty good. On the 311008 the sprues are even sticking to the point where smacking with my mallet wont even release them. I'v smoked both molds with my lighter and they are still sticking.
Now I have a question about "Kroil". What is it, what does it do, how do I use it, what type should I buy? I need some help man! Tom

Edubya · 11-20-2009, 04:09 AM

With your alloy mixture there should be no problem.
Have you preheated your mould?
How many cast have you made?
Yes, the Kroil will help. You can order it directly from Kanu Labs and even get a 13oz sampler for free.
EW

Gunslinger · 11-20-2009, 05:05 AM

50/50 WW/lino is a waste of lino in my opinion. I can't imagine anything that would constitute such a hard alloy.

What are you using it for? Yes is saw the mold numbers but find mold numbers terribly confusing

odinohi · 11-20-2009, 05:16 AM

Yes, I preheated the molds on the warming plate of my Mag 20 furnace.
I cast around 50 on each mold.
The numbers are Lyman numbers, molds are for my 32/20.
Not 50/50 WW/Lino, 3 lb lino, 6 lb ww, 1lb 50/50 solder, this is supposed to be a Lyman#2 clone

Mk42gunner · 11-20-2009, 05:27 AM

How clean are your molds? Did you get all of the oil out of them before starting to cast?

On the sprues sticking to the sprueplate; I have used soapstone on my sprueplates, it keeps the sprue from sticking.

Robert

Wayne Smith · 11-20-2009, 05:42 AM

Since one is a 31108 I assume these are used molds? Have you examined them closely - with a magnifying glass - for burrs that may be causing the problem? How have they been stored? Oil gets in the pores of the iron and needs to be aggressively cleaned out, carb cleaner and a tooth brush at the least.

How hot is your metal? Your mold is up to temp, but I hear that you may be still cooler than the molds want. My Lyman molds want between 750 and 800 degrees. How clean is your melt? Little inclusions in my boolits are usually specks of iron oxide (rust) from my cast iron pot.

Finally, go to the bottom of the page and click on the Bullshop and get some sprue plate lube. It will solve the melt sticking on the sprue plate problem.

In short, find the cause of the problem before adding another variable (Kroil).

You are using a much harder mix than is necessary for the 32-20. I make mine out of either 50/50 (ww/pb) or straight ww, depending on what's in my pot.

Bret4207 · 11-20-2009, 05:43 AM

I've used straight WW with a little tin added in the 32-20 and 32 Mag up to 17-1800 fps. No need to #2 alloy with the 311316 that I can see. Clean the mould of all soot and oils, get the pot up to at least 700-725 and start casting as fast as you can. You mould is too cool. Once the mould breaks in you;ll be able to run the pot a little cooler. You regulate mould temp by casting speed. Evey second the mould is empty it's cooling. DOn;t smoke a mould or use any other type of mould relaease unless you have to, and that's rare IMO.

Oldtimer · 11-20-2009, 07:02 AM

I agree with Bret. I'd turn your pot up a little hotter than what you have been, and speed up just a little. You will start to see a little frosty look on the boolits. You know it is a little too hot if the sprue plate opens easy, or you see a little lead smear on top of your mold. Back off the temp a little, and slow down so the lead will harden. Won't take long, you'll find the right combination. Bob

mroliver77 · 11-20-2009, 01:16 PM

Tom,
I agree, more heat. I see you had asked for some hands on help a couple months back. I am about an hour up route 6 west from you. I can slide over and give you a hand sometime if you like. I use to pick up oak furniture from a fellow peddling it in Clyde.
Jay

TAWILDCATT · 11-20-2009, 02:45 PM

I have the 31108 and it casts perfecly its older than any one here its a win mold.
change that mix.go straight WW even pure lead.that was used in the 73 win and 92. only need hard on rifle over 2000 and mag pistols.It may be expanding and locking in I had that with a lee 12ga.it srunk onto the base pin.by expanding.

Edubya · 11-20-2009, 07:33 PM

Tom, Jump on the offer that Mroliver77 has made. He's been at this casting for a while and has made a most generous offer.
EW

XWrench3 · 11-23-2009, 06:54 AM

try scrubbing the bullet hole with acetone saturated q-tips at least twice. usually in my experience with lee molds, it is either not hot enough, or a TINY bit of something in the mold itself.

odinohi · 11-29-2009, 05:34 AM

Well I cleaned the molds in hot soapy water then dried in the oven. Cleaned again with carb cleaner and then soaked with rubbing alcohol and blew out with my air compressor. Cranked up the heat all the way, took temp of 800 degrees.
The 311316 turned out decent looking bullets after the mold got up to temp. The bullets had tiny little fins but otherwise formed well. The 311008 still needs cleaned some more I believe. Now my next question will be about sizing and lubing these little buggers. Thanks guys, Tom

MtGun44 · 11-29-2009, 10:00 AM

I think that carb cleaner leaves residue. Brake cleaner does not.
I start with a Lee trying brake cleaner only, and see if it casts OK or shows
problems with burrs. If it has burrs or shows indications of contamination
(wrinkled and not properly filled out boolits, even when hot enough) I will
scrub the cavities well with Comet and a toothbrush. This will definitely
clean them well and usually gets the burrs, too. Sometimes a small brass
brush in the dremel very lightly over the edges of the cavities is necessary
to get serious machining burrs from Lee molds.

Make sure you get and use Bull Plate Lube (Bull shop at bottom of page) for
your Lee molds - bottom of sprue plate, top of mold and alignment pins and
V shapes at the end of 1 and 2 cavity molds and alignment pins on 6 cav.
Keep Bull Plate out of cavities. Avoid bullet lube as a mold lube, it burns on
very difficult to remove gunk that can keep the molds from closing properly.

Bill

MK111 · 11-29-2009, 10:24 AM

I believe your fins are way too much tin in your alloy. Drop the 50-50 addition. I never seen a use of over 1 to 2% maximum tin.

11-20-2009, 03:29 AM	#1
odinohi Boolit Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Clyde, Ohio Posts: 108	Newbie needs to know I have a 311008 and a 311316 that I've been trying to cast boolits with. The alloy I'm using is 3lb lino, 6lb ww, 1 lb 50/50 solder. I've casted around 50 boolits so the molds should be up to temp, but I'm still getting lots of little tiny voids and rounded drive bands. The boolits are sticking in the molds pretty good. On the 311008 the sprues are even sticking to the point where smacking with my mallet wont even release them. I'v smoked both molds with my lighter and they are still sticking. Now I have a question about "Kroil". What is it, what does it do, how do I use it, what type should I buy? I need some help man! Tom

11-20-2009, 05:05 AM	#3
Gunslinger Boolit Master Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Denmark Posts: 437	50/50 WW/lino is a waste of lino in my opinion. I can't imagine anything that would constitute such a hard alloy. What are you using it for? Yes is saw the mold numbers but find mold numbers terribly confusing __________________ The artist formerly known as Wiking

11-20-2009, 05:42 AM	#6
Wayne Smith Boolit Master Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia Posts: 2,054	Since one is a 31108 I assume these are used molds? Have you examined them closely - with a magnifying glass - for burrs that may be causing the problem? How have they been stored? Oil gets in the pores of the iron and needs to be aggressively cleaned out, carb cleaner and a tooth brush at the least. How hot is your metal? Your mold is up to temp, but I hear that you may be still cooler than the molds want. My Lyman molds want between 750 and 800 degrees. How clean is your melt? Little inclusions in my boolits are usually specks of iron oxide (rust) from my cast iron pot. Finally, go to the bottom of the page and click on the Bullshop and get some sprue plate lube. It will solve the melt sticking on the sprue plate problem. In short, find the cause of the problem before adding another variable (Kroil). You are using a much harder mix than is necessary for the 32-20. I make mine out of either 50/50 (ww/pb) or straight ww, depending on what's in my pot. __________________ Wayne the Shrink There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

11-20-2009, 05:43 AM	#7
Bret4207 Boolit Master Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: St Lawrence Valley, NY Posts: 10,720	I've used straight WW with a little tin added in the 32-20 and 32 Mag up to 17-1800 fps. No need to #2 alloy with the 311316 that I can see. Clean the mould of all soot and oils, get the pot up to at least 700-725 and start casting as fast as you can. You mould is too cool. Once the mould breaks in you;ll be able to run the pot a little cooler. You regulate mould temp by casting speed. Evey second the mould is empty it's cooling. DOn;t smoke a mould or use any other type of mould relaease unless you have to, and that's rare IMO. __________________ You know who I am, what I did for a living, where I live and what I think. I will not hide who I am. I will not knuckle under just for the "glory" of a Moderators position.

11-20-2009, 01:16 PM	#9
mroliver77 Boolit Master Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 981	Tom, I agree, more heat. I see you had asked for some hands on help a couple months back. I am about an hour up route 6 west from you. I can slide over and give you a hand sometime if you like. I use to pick up oak furniture from a fellow peddling it in Clyde. Jay __________________ See Dick. See Dick drink. See Dick drunk. See Dick drive. See Dick die. Don't be a Dick!

11-20-2009, 04:09 AM	#2
Edubya Boolit Master Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Pinehurst, NC Posts: 411	With your alloy mixture there should be no problem. Have you preheated your mould? How many cast have you made? Yes, the Kroil will help. You can order it directly from Kanu Labs and even get a 13oz sampler for free. EW

11-20-2009, 05:16 AM	#4
odinohi Boolit Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Clyde, Ohio Posts: 108	Yes, I preheated the molds on the warming plate of my Mag 20 furnace. I cast around 50 on each mold. The numbers are Lyman numbers, molds are for my 32/20. Not 50/50 WW/Lino, 3 lb lino, 6 lb ww, 1lb 50/50 solder, this is supposed to be a Lyman#2 clone

11-20-2009, 05:27 AM	#5
Mk42gunner Boolit Master Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Butler, MO Posts: 622	How clean are your molds? Did you get all of the oil out of them before starting to cast? On the sprues sticking to the sprueplate; I have used soapstone on my sprueplates, it keeps the sprue from sticking. Robert

11-20-2009, 07:02 AM	#8
Oldtimer Boolit Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Meridian Miss. Posts: 105	I agree with Bret. I'd turn your pot up a little hotter than what you have been, and speed up just a little. You will start to see a little frosty look on the boolits. You know it is a little too hot if the sprue plate opens easy, or you see a little lead smear on top of your mold. Back off the temp a little, and slow down so the lead will harden. Won't take long, you'll find the right combination. Bob

11-20-2009, 02:45 PM	#10
TAWILDCATT Boolit Master Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: MANNING SC Posts: 1,611	mold I have the 31108 and it casts perfecly its older than any one here its a win mold. change that mix.go straight WW even pure lead.that was used in the 73 win and 92. only need hard on rifle over 2000 and mag pistols.It may be expanding and locking in I had that with a lee 12ga.it srunk onto the base pin.by expanding. __________________ WILDCATT

11-20-2009, 07:33 PM	#11
Edubya Boolit Master Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Pinehurst, NC Posts: 411	Tom, Jump on the offer that Mroliver77 has made. He's been at this casting for a while and has made a most generous offer. EW

11-23-2009, 06:54 AM	#12
XWrench3 Boolit Master Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 312	try scrubbing the bullet hole with acetone saturated q-tips at least twice. usually in my experience with lee molds, it is either not hot enough, or a TINY bit of something in the mold itself.

11-29-2009, 05:34 AM	#13
odinohi Boolit Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Clyde, Ohio Posts: 108	Well I cleaned the molds in hot soapy water then dried in the oven. Cleaned again with carb cleaner and then soaked with rubbing alcohol and blew out with my air compressor. Cranked up the heat all the way, took temp of 800 degrees. The 311316 turned out decent looking bullets after the mold got up to temp. The bullets had tiny little fins but otherwise formed well. The 311008 still needs cleaned some more I believe. Now my next question will be about sizing and lubing these little buggers. Thanks guys, Tom

11-29-2009, 10:00 AM	#14
MtGun44 Boolit Master Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: eastern Kansas- suburb of KC Posts: 2,846	I think that carb cleaner leaves residue. Brake cleaner does not. I start with a Lee trying brake cleaner only, and see if it casts OK or shows problems with burrs. If it has burrs or shows indications of contamination (wrinkled and not properly filled out boolits, even when hot enough) I will scrub the cavities well with Comet and a toothbrush. This will definitely clean them well and usually gets the burrs, too. Sometimes a small brass brush in the dremel very lightly over the edges of the cavities is necessary to get serious machining burrs from Lee molds. Make sure you get and use Bull Plate Lube (Bull shop at bottom of page) for your Lee molds - bottom of sprue plate, top of mold and alignment pins and V shapes at the end of 1 and 2 cavity molds and alignment pins on 6 cav. Keep Bull Plate out of cavities. Avoid bullet lube as a mold lube, it burns on very difficult to remove gunk that can keep the molds from closing properly. Bill __________________ If it was easy, anybody could do it.

11-29-2009, 10:24 AM	#15
MK111 Boolit Mold Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Southwest Ohio Posts: 19	I believe your fins are way too much tin in your alloy. Drop the 50-50 addition. I never seen a use of over 1 to 2% maximum tin.