Loc-Tite 7075 activator and 324 speedbonder
McMaster Carr # 7614A131 (7075) and 7614A11 (324)
That's what they use at Magnum Research to hold the ejector rod housings on.
Loc-Tite 7075 activator and 324 speedbonder
McMaster Carr # 7614A131 (7075) and 7614A11 (324)
That's what they use at Magnum Research to hold the ejector rod housings on.
Good info. I need to get some of that next. Thanks for sharing. No need to catapult the ejector housing when the screw comes off.
I don't think I'll need any for my .475, as there looks to be plenty already on it!
But I may want some for my.500 and my Rugers.
It's about $50 worth of glue from McMaster.
So how exactly does recoil cause a screw to loosen? I know we have all heard it for years, but how does it do it? Maybe it stretches the screw which makes it loose. Then with a "loose" screw, the ERH has enough movement to give it some ability to shear the screw when fired.
Well, the EJRH tries to stay put, while the gun moves. It side-loads the screw, slightly stretches it, and then it is loose. Pretty simple. Screws do not do well with side load.
I wonder why they never put a bushing around the screw that went half-way into the barrel and half-way into the EJRH. Seems like an easy fix - if you have a machine shop.
Why not try just gluing the EJRH with clear silicone caulk?? Makes for a very strong slightly flexible joint and would only cost about $5 to try.
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle
You mean like Ruger used to do?
Or simply make the ERH out of aluminum to reduce the mass and help eliminate the stress on the screw. Or pin it, or .....
I guess the glue is the easiest/cheapest fix, since a steel ERH is a "sign of quality" to most and BFR knows it. All my hard kicking Rugers have aluminum housings and I have never had one fly. I started to replace them with steel since everyone else was doing it and calling it an upgrade, then I thought about the increase in pressure on the screw.
wow. Complete with Mcmaster part numbers. You are the man, subsonic.
If you shop around you might beat McMaster. A local hardware supplier had it for about $10 less total and no shipping. They had to special order it though. Got some coming.
it would shock me. Metal adhesion via the chemical method is a bastard. I would LOVE if someone were to try a silicone, then pull the ERH screw and go for a shooting session with a magnum cartridge. That would be all the data required right there.
If I had one I'd try it. I did try something similar a few years back. I D&Td my SBH .44 mag for the Weigand scope mount and just for the heck of it I glued the mount on (no screws) with a 2 part aircraft caulk called Pro Seal. I put a cheapy $20 red dot on it that I had laying around and shot 50 rds of mag loads( 25/296/429421). The mount and sight stayed on. I took a pair of channel locks,padded them with a cloth and peeled the mount off. There was a slight mark in the anodizing on the shoulder of the mount where it bears on the frame but no damage. There seems to be a big difference in the ability of adhesives to hold if they can flex a bit. I cleaned the Proseal off and installed the mount with the normal screws. I like to try goofy stuff like that every now and then.
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle
Vibration. I had a 8 hour class on Loc-tite products at one of my former employers. The guy teaching was from Loc-tite, complete with white lab coat.
He had a bunch of neat gadjets with him, but the one he used to demonstrate how bolts loosen was a couple pieces of 16 ga. about 1.25" x 10", There was a hole in one end of the 2 pieces with a 1/2" bolt and nut run through. He would let any body in the class tighten the bolt and nut as tight as they could with wrenches, then bang it on a block of wood 2 or 3 times and you could unscrew the nut by hand. Even with a lock washer. He said lock washers are useless.
The thread compound fills the void between the threads and dampens the vibration. There's lots of stuff that will work.
Lockwashers are useless. Nylock nuts aren't bad.
The property of Loc-tite that makes it useful for fastener retention is that it is anaerobic.
Not disagreeing with subsonic about the side loading. Doweling the ERH is definitely the best fix.
Last edited by frankenfab; 10-27-2011 at 09:47 AM.
the silicone. There are many different kinds of silicone.
Get the kind that says "adhesive". Murder to remove and strong.
I have used silicone on boats and some of the removable kinds are not any better than chewing gum.
Life is good
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |