Mould work

[Beekeeper]

I honestly did look for an answer so if some one knows where it is just point me there please.
I have several Lee moulds that I want to redo the sprueplate bolts on.
reason, the sprue plates seem to be warped as I get a lot of lead wwipe when using them.
I have tried to remove the screws, ( no joy). Is there a special procedure I need to look at to get it done or is there another way to lap the sprue plate.


Jim

[mooman76]

Do you use bull plate lube? That almost completely eliminates what you are talking about. You wipe some on the sprue plate and the top of the mould without getting it inside. The screws should loosen without too much force. Maybe they are not not adjusted right. They can be too tight as well as too loose.

[HORNET]

Try getting the blocks hot first. The aluminum will expand faster and more than the steel screw which makes it a little easier. If it won't move with a Phillips bit and the Chapman ratchet, I've been known to clamp onto the screw head with Vice-grips. That usually moves them. I usually lap the bottom of the plate with some 400 grit wet/dry silicon carbide paper (usually worn), cold blue it just for grins, and put the curved washer back on with the rounded face down on the sprue plate to reduce the spring force a little. Polish the bearing face on the washer while you've got it off. Polish the top surfaces of the blocks with them held firmly together (figure 8 lap on the same 400 grit) , treat the bearing surfaces with Bullplate, and put it back together. You might want to sharpen the sprue holes while you're at it. May as well read the Lee-Menting threads first to see what else I missed.

[dromia]

In addittion to the above good advice there is some more here:

http://www.castpics.net/LeementingKitDocumentation.htm

[Buckshot]

..............The SP is held down with a self taping screw. When you remove it and then replace it you may fine that it no longer works as before. If you have it out I personally think it's better to simply D&T for a 10-24 screw. While at it also D&T for a 6-32 setscrew from the side as a keeper for the new SP screw. With your new SP screw you can place a brass washer against the SP and a wave or belleville washer atop that, under the screwhead.

..............Buckshot

[markinalpine]

Originally Posted by Buckshot

..............The SP is held down with a self taping screw. When you remove it and then replace it you may fine that it no longer works as before. If you have it out I personally think it's better to simply D&T for a 10-24 screw. While at it also D&T for a 6-32 setscrew from the side as a keeper for the new SP screw. With your new SP screw you can place a brass washer against the SP and a wave or belleville washer atop that, under the screwhead.

..............Buckshot

You might also consider installing a stud, instead of a screw, and use an "upset" luck nut. An upset lock nut typically has three stake marks on its top that "smush" (highly technical term used by machinists, mechanics, hardware guys) the threads in enough to hold on to the threads of the stud. You don't want to use a locknut with nylon inserts since they would melt.
Mark