Swaging Accessories

[ricklaut]

Attachment 81845
Little off-topic for thread, but had couple of PM comments and questions about reducing plastic in the printed item. This shot is the honeycomb pattern that I use in the depriming tray device. Really more air than plastic! But still quite a bit of strength. Have not discovered how to include computer files into PM, yet.....

I'm using 10% fill on these. That doesn't sound like much, but yes, they're still strong. I haven't yet found the need to increase the amount of fill, but you can go up to 100% if that's needed. I'd guess, though (without having done it), warping would become a significant problem.

[ricklaut]

For the past couple of days, I've been over in another thread working on a 3D printed version of Supe47's 'core shaker tray'. Details start on page 6 of this: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ng-cores/page6

Current status:

[redneck rampage]

What CAD program are you using for design? thanks

[ricklaut]

What CAD program are you using for design? thanks

I'm using FreeCAD (buggy though...). Many use OpenSCAD, but I find the interface (more) difficult.

[redneck rampage]

I am trying freeCAD but it is only in mm. I might have to try OpenSCAD.

[ricklaut]

I am trying freeCAD but it is only in mm. I might have to try OpenSCAD.

Yeah, I'm doing a lot of converting when I have something that starts in inches. Glad it's easy with Google (rather than mental division or a calculator).

[lcecil]

I mostly use OpenSCAD in mm, but it does not know the real world dimensions of models. If you stay in decimal inches (nn.nnnn format), everything works fine. The output files can be SCALED to real world, so the STL files just get scaled by 25.4 or 1/25.4. STL files carry the inch/mm information in the file, but it is frequently wrong on published STL files (like Thingiverse!).

Biggest consideration is the 'recompile' operation. OpenSCAD only updates the graphic when you click one of the two compile modes. No push/pull graphics! Also, you have to run the other [slow] compile before you can export the STL file, and that can literally take HOURS on complex curved structures. Something like Rick's tray would be 4 or 5 minutes on an old XP computer, for example.

And I have not found any OpenSCAD output that gives you back dimensioned drawings. There is a loadable module that gives an onscreen XYZ ruler, but no tape or caliper tool is included in the software package. Alibre is the cheapest CAD package for 3D that gives those features, at this point

[R.Ph. 380]

I guess that I should start a new thread for this and I will on Monday when I'll try to get some video in the thread, but right now, I would like to praise both Rick and Lon for their devising of the decapping accessories they have printed. It does not matter whether they are printed in black, blue, green, yellow or pink and purple polkadots. They just work and keep on working. I am kind of partial to the black and bulkier de-capping tray, simply because it tents to stay put better for me right up next to the ram of my Rock Chucker while using the Lee Universal De-capper. The light blue de-capping accessory is almost equally as useful, but it occasionally leans back and allows one of the primers to escape. Rick I will be PM'ing you with some info in a few minutes.

The Swaging accessory I have found the most useful is the tray that fits on BT's auto-eject accessory. This tray just makes the swaging, core seating and point forming of the .224 from 22lr effortless. It is immeasurably useful and keeps the rhythm flowing for the entire process. Everyone who buys BT's die set and gets the auto-eject NEEDS one of these trays. Video to come on Monday.

Rick, PM on the way

Bill

[ricklaut]

That's great to hear, Bill! I'm glad you've had a chance to use them and look forward to your comments & critique (including where improvements can be made!).

If you haven't already, look over in the "Faster Way of Seating Cores" thread (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-cores/page6); I've spent a lot of time working on a core shaker based on Supe47's design. After a few tweaks from my first copy of it, it's just about ready for prime time.

[R.Ph. 380]

That's great to hear, Bill! I'm glad you've had a chance to use them and look forward to your comments & critique (including where improvements can be made!).

If you haven't already, look over in the "Faster Way of Seating Cores" thread (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-cores/page6); I've spent a lot of time working on a core shaker based on Supe47's design. After a few tweaks from my first copy of it, it's just about ready for prime time.

I would be glad to check that one out, but I Have one I bought from a Chinese company in Hong Kong that works really great. Might bounce them against each other. Funny thing, I bought my capsule shaker from this company in Hong Kong for 37.00 several months ago. Told the guy what I was going to use it for. When I looked at their prices again just a couple weeks ago, the price is now over 50.00. Can they take advantage or what? I guess there's a few Homegrown unlicensed pharmacists finding them useful...............................hehehe

Bill

[Utah Shooter]

When one of you do come up with the shaker tray design for a decent cost let me know. I am not paying 250 for one of these.

[lcecil]

Thanks for the update, Bill! The plastic ring around the ram was specifically to keep the tray up close to the ram. When decapping, I tend to process the whole bucket. The version without the ring eliminates interference with your fingers to load the casing, but it can tilt back. Unknown (for me) just how much space is behind the tray, over several models of RC Supreme, but I can add a rib or wedge that will minimize that gap. Hopefully, either beats the original equipment offering.

[ricklaut]

I'm close, Joe - real close. I'm hopeful that within a couple of days I can confidently throw my hat in on the core shaker tray. I'm thinking that the price will be significantly less than the $250 you saw, but more than the $50 capsule shaker Bill found.

It's taking approx 26 hours of printer time for each unit (the two trays & the sides and possibly a clip to hold them (thanks, Lon!)), and it requires assembly (gluing). Based on that, I don't think I can match the capsule shaker price and still make it worth my while to produce.

More to come .

[monmouth]

I'm close, Joe - real close. I'm hopeful that within a couple of days I can confidently throw my hat in on the core shaker tray. I'm thinking that the price will be significantly less than the $250 you saw, but more than the $50 capsule shaker Bill found.

It's taking approx 26 hours of printer time for each unit (the two trays & the sides and possibly a clip to hold them (thanks, Lon!)), and it requires assembly (gluing). Based on that, I don't think I can match the capsule shaker price and still make it worth my while to produce.

More to come .

Rick,

Please add me to the list of prospective purchasers, great work!

[ricklaut]

Rick,

Please add me to the list of prospective purchasers, great work!

I've started a list. Thanks for your interest!

[ricklaut]

Over the past few weeks, those who have watched this thread (and this one) have seen my journey with 3D printing unfold. Today, I'm pleased to announce that I am taking orders for two items, with others (including the core shaker tray) to follow very soon!

Swaging Catch Tray (Item# CT_Lee_BT V2.0) – $25.00 (including domestic shipping): Designed specifically for use on Lee Classic Cast presses with BT Sniper auto-eject systems installed, this catch tray rides on the lower bar of the eject system and catches cores or point formed bullets as they drop out of the die. No more improvised boxes beneath your press! This version, an upgrade from the original reviewed here, has a door on the back left side of the tray. The door lifts out of the way to easily sweep cores / bullets out into a tray or container.



Replacement Decap Tray / Primer Catcher for RCBS RockChucker Press: Offered with the express permission of the original designer and under the Creative Commons – Attribution License, this eliminates the major frustration with the original RCBS design – primers that miss the tray, or fly all over the place when you’re removing the tray to empty it! These designs route primers out through a hole and down through a hose (not provided). Primers end up in a container and not all over the floor. Available in two slightly different versions (below).



Original RCBS Decap Tray / Primer Catcher (Item# RCBS_DT_LC_Orig) – $15.00 (including domestic shipping): This version has a ring that partially encircles the ram, ensuring a tight fit and minimal movement. It requires that the ram be raised slightly to place brass into the shell holder. There is a hole in the right side of the item, through which an empty .22LR piece of brass is inserted to pin it to the press & stabilize it.



IMPROVED RCBS Decap Tray / Primer Catcher (Item# RCBS_DT_LC_V11) ($15.00 including domestic shipping): On this version, the ring around the ram is removed for increased access to the shell holder; there can be slightly more movement of the item which can allow an occasional primer to escape. Like the original, there is a hole in the right side, through which an empty .22LR piece of brass is inserted to pin it to the press & stabilize it.



To order, you can PM me here, or e-mail rick@reloadingcreations.com. I am accepting PayPal; other forms of payment (i.e. personal check or money order) are options as well. Please visit my ReloadingCreations web site for additional information, and for a blog where I'm chronicling my experiences with 3D printing.

I am extremely grateful for this fantastic forum, and for the gracious members who have encouraged and supported my decision to take this next step, and who have tested early copies of these items. Thank you!

[lcecil]

Thanks to Bill and Rick for their testing and suggestions on the decap tray changes and operation. Bill, the simple solution is to drill a small hole in the back of the decap tray and drive in a sheet metal screw. 1/2" below the top, 1/8" drill, and a #8 or #10 screw that is 1/2 or 5/8" long works well. Adjust the screw in or out a bit, so it holds the tray within a primer thickness of the ram at full height.

Have implemented a change in the plastic to embed a nut and short hex bolt in the back, so you can adjust with a small wrench or spanner. As implemented, I will use an M5-16 bolt and nut, available from the big box hardware stores for any replacement needs! I can never find what I drop, either! Otherwise, interchanges with version #11 and I will share updated files with Rick before he can build any serious stocks.

[ricklaut]

Thanks to Bill and Rick for their testing and suggestions on the decap tray changes and operation. Bill, the simple solution is to drill a small hole in the back of the decap tray and drive in a sheet metal screw. 1/2" below the top, 1/8" drill, and a #8 or #10 screw that is 1/2 or 5/8" long works well. Adjust the screw in or out a bit, so it holds the tray within a primer thickness of the ram at full height.

Have implemented a change in the plastic to embed a nut and short hex bolt in the back, so you can adjust with a small wrench or spanner. As implemented, I will use an M5-16 bolt and nut, available from the big box hardware stores for any replacement needs! I can never find what I drop, either! Otherwise, interchanges with version #11 and I will share updated files with Rick before he can build any serious stocks.

Awesome - Thanks, Lon!

[R.Ph. 380]

Thanks to Bill and Rick for their testing and suggestions on the decap tray changes and operation. Bill, the simple solution is to drill a small hole in the back of the decap tray and drive in a sheet metal screw. 1/2" below the top, 1/8" drill, and a #8 or #10 screw that is 1/2 or 5/8" long works well. Adjust the screw in or out a bit, so it holds the tray within a primer thickness of the ram at full height.

Have implemented a change in the plastic to embed a nut and short hex bolt in the back, so you can adjust with a small wrench or spanner. As implemented, I will use an M5-16 bolt and nut, available from the big box hardware stores for any replacement needs! I can never find what I drop, either! Otherwise, interchanges with version #11 and I will share updated files with Rick before he can build any serious stocks.

BINGO, that takes care of my only serious design preference. Should be a winner.

Bill

[lcecil]

2 washers and a bolthead worked great for the first 2 RC presses. Easy to add more washers, if needed, or even remove them.

Nut goes into a pocket in the plastic. The bolt is short enough that it can not touch the ram, even with no washers. Spent primers don't drop through this area, at least for 223 or pistol cases. Adjustable for any press variations, but not critical. Still takes 3 hours to print, but the printer does not need to sleep!