How to clean/ restore wood stocks?

[Kev18]

I have alot of old rifles and some of them have plain brown stocks. Barely any grains visible. You can see that the oil over the years has pénétrantes deep into the wood. Which is normal. Is there a way to clean it up a bit without damaging anything? No sanding or reshaping wanted or needed. I use my 1886 alot so I treated the wood with pine tar and turp. Looks nice but maybe it would look even better with abit of apparent grain. Im not even sure if the wood has nice grain, im just throwing out suggestions.
I'm pretty sure I saw a video of people soaking the stocks in acetone to remove oil but i dont want anything to damage the wood. It is close to 150 years old. I don't want to varnish the wood in any way. I hate the shiny look.

[RustyReel]

Potterfield has a video where he cleans up an old rolling block, including the stock. Don't recall exactly what he used. You will have to look it up on the Midway site.

[Buzz Krumhunger]

Here’s the video RR mentioned:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfcUwMWxJ2U

[pietro]

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I stopped sanding gunstocks that didn't need any structural repairs over 30 years ago.

For stocks in better shape, I usually start with some Howard's Feed 'N Wax to clean/wax the wood - which usually eventually needs a redux






For stock that are not so good, I use Formby's Furniture Refinisher (following the can directions) and 0000 steel wool to strip the wood.





Depending upon the result of using Formby's, I will ether leave it as-is, or rub in some Tru-Oil (which can result in either a satin or shiny finish, depending upon the method used).


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[redhawk0]

I use Murphy's Oil Soap to remove dirt and grime without damaging the finish. Make sure to rinse any heavy dirt particles off first so you don't "grind" the grit/dirt/sand into the finish. Then use the oil soap and make small circular motion with a cotton rag to remove dirt. When that area of the rag gets dirty move to a clean area of the rag. Checkering can be cleaned in the same manor using a soft bristle tooth brush and oil soap...or Q-tips. Rinse the work area often so you can see the change in the clean area.

It takes time...but it's worth the effort.

redhawk

[Petrol & Powder]

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...1133-4041.aspx

You can't get the oil out of the wood with a solvent. You need to pull the oil out with whiting.

The dents can be raised by steaming.

After the stock is dry, sanding is the next step followed by whatever finish you decide to go with.

[45workhorse]

Beeswax and real turpentine, borrow the wife's cheese grater, shred the beeswax, put in a baby food jar add turp stir it up till you get the consistency you want. Treat it like Johnson paste wax, put it on let dry and then buff. Seals the wood good, water resistant, and smells good too! Use a heat gun gently to open pores and get it into the wood.

[CastingFool]

I got a bunch of old oil from a shotgun stock by wiping it with a rag and alcohol, but the original finish had already been stripped off.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Kev, that's an interesting proposition. I have almost never cleaned up a stock without doing a refinish job while I was at it. I think you have a two step process here (1) to extract the old oil, and (2) to then add something to the surface of the wood to restore it's appearance. I think the first thing you should do is to remove the stock from the rifle, as getting whatever you decide to use probably won't be good for the metal. Oil can be gotten out of wood using heat. I've used a heat gun on some old military stocks that would actually cause oil to drip out of the end of a stock that was vertical. Another approach is to dissolve the oil. I have used "Simple Green" with some success, also gasoline and oven cleaner. You'll get lots of negative comments about the last two, and in any event it is best done outside. As P&P mentioned, you can use whiting to absorb the oil that comes to the surface. It goes on white, and after an hour or so it will turn brown. Wipe it off, and repeat until it isn't absorbing any more oil. But, you have to use it in conjunction with something that is emulsifying the oil and causing the wood pores to release it. As recommended by redhawk0, "Murphy's Oil Soap" is a good product, but depending on just how oily your stock(s) is it may not clean deeply enough to prevent more oil from coming to the surface to replace what you originally remove. As for restoring the finish, which will probably be damaged to some extent by anything you use, a good furniture polish might be a way to start, followed by a thin layer of carnauba wax. Once the wood is bare you could use one of the conventional finishes like Linspeed or TruOil. Usually a couple of coats aren't enough to make it shiny, and you can always rube it back to a satin or even dull. Some "before and after" photos would be nice. Good luck with your project(s).

[W.R.Buchanan]

Here’s the video RR mentioned:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfcUwMWxJ2U

This is a good way for sure. And not to intense so anyone can do it. Your 1886 would certainly benefit from this procedure.

Randy

[dave roelle]

TSP is excellent at "cleaning" wood stocks, after rinse well with water and air dry

light sanding and a quick wipe with alcohol to raise the grain for final sanding.

Oil finish with your favorite finishing oil, pure tung oil is my favorite but it takes time to achieve the best quality finish

[rondog]

I'm fixin' to buy a steam cleaner from Harbor Freight for various household and automotive uses, but I can't help wondering how it would work on guns? Seems like it would be dandy for degreasing old milsurp stocks, and getting grimy actions completely clean of cosmoline and other spooge.

Anybody used one of these on a firearm? The reviews of this machine are superb.

[LAGS]

I Sweat our stocks with a HF heat gun And wipe the oil off as it comes to the surface with a paper towel.
You heat parts of the stock and remove the heat as soon as the oil starts to come to the surface , then wipe right away with the paper towel.
Then go back and repeat the process over and over untill the oil stops coming out.
You will not get All the oil out , but it will get it to a level that strippers can remove it down far enough to refinish with Minimal Sanding.
But , Watch your heat.
You do not want to get the stock so hot that you make the oil start smoking or you will burn the wood.
Been doing mil Surps this way for over 30 years.
It works great.
A Hair dryer will work too , but it just takes time because it doesn't get as warm.
I have done many stocks this way , that only needed a light sanding , then wipped them with Linseed oil to finish them.
Give it a shot.

[Kev18]

I think il try laquer thinner like in the video. seems easy and works decent. My stock isnt to dinged up so im not worry about buffing it out or sanding.

here it is. Its just dark in color.

[BigEyeBob]

Ive done a number of old firearms that have had oil soaked stocks ,Lee Enfields and Martini small frames . I use acetone and a heat gun ,soak the stock in acetone and then use the heat gun to raise the oil from the wood wipe this off with acetone on a rag. Repeated until the wood has given up most of the oil .You wont get it all out , but the oil staining can be reduced drastically .I did a martini sporting rifle just recently and discovered an amazing grain in the walnut stock hidden by many years of oil and grime. An old tooth brush is good for cleaning the gunk out of the chequer using acetone .Then I refinish with red oil and hand rub until the heat near blisters the skin on my hand , keep this up every day for as long as you want . Storing rifles and shotguns barrel down is the best way to prevent gun oil soaking into the wood from the action .All my firearms are stored in this manner.

[samari46]

Acetone and whiting mixed into a thick paste and spread it on the wood. The whiting starts turning brown as it starts to soak up the oil. Most likely will not do the trick the first time around. Wear chemical resistant gloves as your skin will absorb the acetone. Best to do it outside. Do not use wood bleach as some of the two part ones can react to any oil or grease causing the wood bleach to get very hot and start a chemical reaction. I had it happen to me. luckily I was outside and threw the tub on the ground and hit it with the hose. Frank

[Kev18]

Seems like acetone and thinner is a must. I have paint thinner. Is it close to lacquer thinner?

[Der Gebirgsjager]

No -- two very different things. Acetone is different yet. All are available in hardware stores in cans varying from very small to very large.

[Uncle Grinch]

I second the use of Formby’s Furniture Refinisher and 0000 steel wool. I pour a very small amount in a metal parts pan and dip my steel wool in it. Rub the area and wipe with a clean cloth to remove the loosened residue. It really does a good job without hurting the wood.

[LAGS]

Paint thinner will cut the oil in the stocks
But,
It will only soften it enough to make it soak deeper into the wood.
Acetone will make it come to the surface where it can be removed.
But one caution about using Acetone and Heat at the same time.
That is a Fire Hazard.
Acetone evaperores at a low temperature.
With a heat gun or hair dryer , you make a volatile gas that easily ignites.
That is why I opt to heat the wood , then use paper towels to absorbed the oil.
You can wash the stock in Acetone later.
But Safety First.
Heat IMO is the best way to start.
It will not remove any existing Original Finish.
That is you first Objective.
You want to remove the Oil that has penetrated the original Finish.
When done , you can evaluate what finish is left.
Like I said.
A lot of guns Sweated out and were able to be resealed with Linseed oil or True Oil with no problems.
Adding water like washing with TSP , removes the oil.
But it opens the grain in the wood And makes you do more sanding.
That is not conducive to Restoration projects.