Don't understand

[waksupi]

most of the offshore rifles will have proofing residue lodged in the chamber and ante-chamber. just need to get cleaned out as described above, then followed with some kinda light oil to preserve. here's what brand new unfired patent breech plug and chambers look like before cleaning ...

It's a good chance that breeching job would lead to problems with thread corrosion. Obviously not closely mated, as it should be.

[taco650]

I use pre-packaged alcohol swabs to clean my bore between shots. Got this idea from Mike Beleview (Dualist1954 on youtube).

[rfd]

It's a good chance that breeching job would lead to problems with thread corrosion. Obviously not closely mated, as it should be.

this is why with all new offshore trad ml guns i pull the breech plug before its first load and firing, clean it all out, and most important, replace the plug with Nikal anti-seize. after a year or two of good use, pulling the breech reveals no mitigation of bp residue into the plug threads. none of this should be needed with a well built onshore custom gun such as you, ric, and other good gunmakers build - and thankfully none will have than dang patent breech.

[rfd]

I use pre-packaged alcohol swabs to clean my bore between shots. Got this idea from Mike Beleview (Dualist1954 on youtube).

are you sure you really need to swab between shots? if i had to do that with any of my trad ml's, i'd not be a happy muzzleloading shooter. i won't own a trad ml that i can't run a half dozen balls through it before any need for fouling control. and if so, just spit or water on a patched jag will get the job done, no need for anything special to spend money on. bp barrel residue, particularly since the gun was just fired, is any easy clean out with plain water on a moistened patch. tied in with this fouling business is how one loads the gun - the fit of ball and patch, the patch lube of choice, the powder type and charge. some experimentation with these criteria might be of interest in terms of both loading and subsequent accuracy at varying distances. anyhoo, i see no need for a short starter, let alone a hammer to get the load down the barrel. that would take some fun out of trad muzzleloading for me. but, to each their own, it's all good, i guess.

[taco650]

rfd,

I just got my muzzleloader, a .50 cal Traditions Kentucky rifle, so still experimenting with load, patch/ball combos. Current patch and ball combo is pillow ticking cut at the muzzle lubed with coconut oil and a .490 RB over 70gr of Goex 3f. It's a tight fit at the muzzle so a short starter is needed. I'm open to suggestions on different patch material, etc.

[rfd]

taco - experiment, experiment, and then experiment a bit more. each gun will have a load it likes best, that won't need a hammer or short starter, that will allow some number of loads before barrel fouling requires addressing, and that will deliver at least good accuracy at what you'd consider reasonable muzzleloader shooting distances. you know the load component variables you'll need to test (ball diameter, patch thickness and thread count, patch lube, bp 3f brand, bp charge), just need to do it and see what makes yer gun and you most happiest. enjoy!

[taco650]

taco - experiment, experiment, and then experiment a bit more. each gun will have a load it likes best, that won't need a hammer or short starter, that will allow some number of loads before barrel fouling requires addressing, and that will deliver at least good accuracy at what you'd consider reasonable muzzleloader shooting distances. you know the load component variables you'll need to test (ball diameter, patch thickness and thread count, patch lube, bp 3f brand, bp charge), just need to do it and see what makes yer gun and you most happiest. enjoy!

All part of the plan...

[bigted]

are you sure you really need to swab between shots? if i had to do that with any of my trad ml's, i'd not be a happy muzzleloading shooter. i won't own a trad ml that i can't run a half dozen balls through it before any need for fouling control. and if so, just spit or water on a patched jag will get the job done, no need for anything special to spend money on. bp barrel residue, particularly since the gun was just fired, is any easy clean out with plain water on a moistened patch. tied in with this fouling business is how one loads the gun - the fit of ball and patch, the patch lube of choice, the powder type and charge. some experimentation with these criteria might be of interest in terms of both loading and subsequent accuracy at varying distances. anyhoo, i see no need for a short starter, let alone a hammer to get the load down the barrel. that would take some fun out of trad muzzleloading for me. but, to each their own, it's all good, i guess.

I agree completely with the "no short starter" methodology.

Since i found out that a short starter was rarely found with original kits and arms in both military as well as frontier arena's. I have always experimented till i find just such a fitment along with powder charge and ball/patch.

This "style" of loading/shooting is satisfying as well as easy and fun. If i cannot seat a patched ball into the muzzle , then my search is not over yet.

[Minerat]

I have a TC Hawkens 54 that was a kit gun back in 1984. I finally got tired of fighting the fouling and tight patching so basically quite shooting it. Had to use a short starter ever time and fought getting the patched ball seated. The last couple of posts were a light bulb moments for me. Maybe time to get it out again and give it another try with a thinner patch material or smaller ball . Looks like I'm spending time reading this area for patching information.

Sorry for distracting the thread. I remember wiping after every shot with bore butter as being part of the frustration too.

[bigted]

Minerat,

Pardon the departure OP.

Try in your 54 TC Hawken ... .530 ball, 70 or 80 grains 2Fg ( real black powder), .015 inch 100% cotton patch's, lubed with ant slickery lube that will soak into the patch ( my favorite patch is the brown cleaning patch's that i start down bore then cut off the excess material for a perfect fitting patch every time).

This combo has worked well in every 54 i ever tried it in. It is hand started in the muzzle and easy to ram home. Easy peasy. Shoots very well and i get at least 12 to 20 shots between patching the bore. Very fun to shoot. Try it. Im bettin you will hugely enjoy the traditional style shooting.

[mooman76]

Minerat
Do you remember the patch, ball and lube combo you were using back then? Seems that some TCs in 54 run tight for some reason.