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Thread: Stretching that 44 mag case

  1. #21
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    I expanded the case mouth a little, so that the .410 wads were easier to push down, but the rest of the expansion was left to the powder charge when fired.
    I'm surprised that you need to turn down the rim diameter. Mine dropped in the cylinders and turned freely after just trimming the case down.

    What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.
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  2. #22
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    Following this one. I have a cabin in snake country and would love to have shot loads for the .44 mag. Turning .303 into full length .44 brass for shot has me thinking. Load data, techniques, and photos would be a treat.

  3. #23
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    Figure I would update this. Thanks to a member I received 30pcs of 445 brass. Those performed better than I thought they would to be honest. If anyone wants to look at a picture just look at this 1 since they look identical in every way.



    Same technique I used when I made the 45LC from the 460 brass. I did manage to get 190gr of #8 shot in those and they worked just fine using the same load data that's provided as far as factory data is concerned.

    The same procedure here, except go with the published factory load data: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...mp-W-Mag-brass
    Click to see what I'm doing and have available, this takes you to the VS (Vendor Sponsor) section of the site. Currently..25Rem,30Rem, 32Rem, 35Rem, 257Roberts, 358Win, 338Fed, 357 Herrett, 30 Herrett, 401 Winchester, 300Sav, 221 Fireball, 260Rem, 222Rem, 250 Savage, 8mm Mauser (AKA 8x57), 25-20WCF

    Annealing Services

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...php?117-Grumpa






  4. #24
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    [QUOTE=triggerhappy243;3979459]this is what I was looking for, thank you. what do I have to do to the 303 brit brass to load for my 44 mag?[/QUOTE


    related, I shoot fire-formed cut-down 8X57 brass shells in moon clips in a s&w 25-2 chambered in 45 acp, with about 5 grains of green dot, card wad, 4/10 oz of 7 1/2 shot, and cover wad glued into place, for decent patterns that get spiral/spotty at 15 yards. almost equal to a 2.5" 410 payload.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub
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    I use a 30-06 sized case. Cut/trim to 1.73. Full length size with a 44 sizer die all the way to the rim, very important.. Size the mouth with a 41 mag sizer die about .5 inch, if your cylinder is not smooth bore.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #26
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    well i am getting back on these 44 shot loads. What do I use to cut these to length? all I have done so far is to knock out primers. they are in the tumbler right now. I do not have a lathe.

  7. #27
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    also, I know I will need to fire form these once I trim to length. what would I use to do this?

  8. #28
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    well, I used my rcbs case trimmer to turn these down to cyl. length and I ran into a bit of a snag. inside dia. of the case mouth is .385, so this means the 44 cal. gas check method will not work using 303 brit brass.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpa View Post
    i've done it with 444 marlin brass, i have also done the 303 route. Using 303 the case is very thick, which.....reduces payload a bit.

    Using the 444 marlin requires a lathe to turn down the body right next to the rim. I can get a 30% increase in payload using the 444 marlin, but i can't remember how much i got in the 303 british.

    I use a special die for the crimp though, it's called a notching die which cycles great in rifles.

    Hardest part when coming up with ideas.....trying to come up with a cheap parent case, it's not as easy as you may think.

    After thinking a bit about what 54bore wrote, that's a case i didn't even consider. Guess i'll need to try the 445 case since it's even cheaper than what i'm using right now.
    grumpa, are you still following this thread?

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Yanda View Post
    I have some in process. I found that i needed to thin the rim, and reduce the diameter slightly so they fit my Ruger SBH.
    William Yanda, are you still in the house? how far along are you with your shot loads?

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 725 View Post
    Following this one. I have a cabin in snake country and would love to have shot loads for the .44 mag. Turning .303 into full length .44 brass for shot has me thinking. Load data, techniques, and photos would be a treat.
    725, where i am at now is 303 cases cut to cyl. length. rifle primers. looking for a bulky pistol powder that will take up some space.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by obssd1958 View Post
    I expanded the case mouth a little, so that the .410 wads were easier to push down, but the rest of the expansion was left to the powder charge when fired.
    I'm surprised that you need to turn down the rim diameter. Mine dropped in the cylinders and turned freely after just trimming the case down.
    obssd1958, are you still here?

  13. #33
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    Still here.
    I didn't use the gas checks to seal the case mouth. I used a sharp case mouth to cut small cardboard (primer box) circles out, and glued them into the mouth of the case. Once you have fired them once in your gun, you should then be able to use the gas checks if you like.

    What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.
    - Henry S. Haskins in “Meditations in Wall Street”

    "Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rapidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end." ...Unknown

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRUMPA View Post
    I've done it with 444 Marlin brass, I have also done the 303 route. Using 303 the case is very thick, which.....reduces payload a bit.

    Using the 444 Marlin requires a lathe to turn down the body right next to the rim. I can get a 30% increase in payload using the 444 Marlin, but I can't remember how much I got in the 303 British.

    I use a special die for the crimp though, it's called a notching die which cycles great in rifles.

    Hardest part when coming up with ideas.....trying to come up with a cheap parent case, it's not as easy as you may think.

    After thinking a bit about what 54bore wrote, that's a case I didn't even consider. Guess I'll need to try the 445 case since it's even cheaper than what I'm using right now.
    That reduction of the .444 Marlin needs to be done very carefully for a high pressure load. You would have to size it right up to the solid head, with considerable pressure from a powerful press. Shot loads should be much less critical for case strength, though.

    If you make a case holder for an electric screwdriver you can trim down the excessive diameter on the solid web with a small, sharp carpenter's rebate plane. An electric drill is liable to vibrate and bounce, but the screwdriver, with its slower rotation, won't.

  15. #35
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    For smaller calibres, gelatin pharmaceutical capsules can be an acceptable alternative, but there is no size suitable for the .44. There are plenty of empty capsule casings on eBay, and I suspect that a lot of people's pharmacology is of the recreational variety.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsule_(pharmacy)

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by obssd1958 View Post
    still here.
    I didn't use the gas checks to seal the case mouth. I used a sharp case mouth to cut small cardboard (primer box) circles out, and glued them into the mouth of the case. Once you have fired them once in your gun, you should then be able to use the gas checks if you like.
    what powder did you use and how much?

  17. #37
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    A rimless case might work okay in a single action revolver but in a double action it will be a bit of a nuisance ejecting the cases. Neither the .444 or 308 diameter cases will enter either of my DA revolvers. Case head diameter is too large. I suppose those cases need full length resizing before being cut and trimmed.

  18. #38
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    well i had to take a shot in the dark.......... no punn intended. i got 12 loaded rounds. 6.5 gr. of unique and 150 gr. worth of #8 lead shot. so far as i can tell they worked real well. the casings fireformed real nice.

  19. #39
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    but i do know, i need to machine off about 4 thou. off the base of the shell. they hang up when fired and i have to rotate the cylinder by hand. i need to find a mini lathe to use for a short bit.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    This subject has been beat to death several times before.

    Just buy Starline 5 in 1 Blank cases. Use 5 grains of Bullseye.

    Attachment 201790Attachment 201792
    Last edited by Outpost75; 08-13-2017 at 08:55 AM.
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check