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Thread: Winchester Chambering Problem.

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy DrDucati's Avatar
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    You said BAC rounds insert fine, but not clear to me if you also meant they cycle without the hangup? Also didn't explicitly say the shot cartridges you tried cycle or not. Check if the case mouth is hitting the lower lip of chamber or actually the bullet nose is topping out in top of chamber thus blocking further movement, which would be a length issue. Even if overall length is same as BAC rounds, reloaded seating depth with different nose profile may change the necessary OAL. Also, the round shown looks crimped shy of the end of the groove in the bullet, so there isn't a smooth transition from case mouth to projectile? Thats the impression from photo.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Another thing you might try is add some height to the elevator surface with layers of tape. If that cures the problem then loof to links a pins and holes with wear allowing the lifter to set "lower" than it should. Plain masking tape adds about .005 per layer. The tape isn't meant as a fix but to diagnose the problem once its determines more lift is needed then you need to start checking pins and holes for wear and bends.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy DrDucati's Avatar
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    I would think if the nose is entering that far into the chamber then the elevator is lifting high enough; am I mistaken?

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    I just found the source of the problem I think. I stuck a wire cam down the barrel and it doesnt seem like there is an issue around teh chamber. The bullet tip hits the top of the chamber but thats minor. My real problem now is in the receiver. It get stuck on the little angled ramps on each side. Maybe the cartridge doesnt get elevated high enough t o engage over the little ramps? I dont know what they're called.
    EDIT: The angled ramp on the left is a cartridge stop and the one on the right is a cartridge Guide.



    Cartridge gets stuck right behind them, but as soon as I push it with my finger, it slides in fine...
    Last edited by Kev18; 11-24-2018 at 05:27 PM.

  5. #25
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    skeettx's Avatar
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    Take a case and remove a LITTLE bit of the rim diameter on ONE case and let us know how that works
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=skeettx;4512362]Take a case and remove a LITTLE bit of the rim diameter on ONE case and let us know how that works
    [/QUOTE
    Thats not the issue, They are getting stuck on the back side of the cartridge guide. Im not sure what a Fix could be. Maybe a quick polish if I can get them out without dismantling the whole rifle.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

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    A popcycle stick with a little flitz or polishing compound worked in to it will reach in and polis surfaces. If needed cut the end to fit where you need. Literaly smear a small amount of compound on a flat steel bar and press the edge into it hard to impregnate it onto the surface then use it like a file with a light touch

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    A popcycle stick with a little flitz or polishing compound worked in to it will reach in and polis surfaces. If needed cut the end to fit where you need. Literaly smear a small amount of compound on a flat steel bar and press the edge into it hard to impregnate it onto the surface then use it like a file with a light touch
    Good tip! Id probably need to take the rifle apart one day, but not this day.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    Had the same problem with mine and it turned out to be ware on the bolt rails. Allowed the bolt to tip a bit, in-turn causing the carrier to not stay up. On yours it looks like the rim is hanging up on the feed rails. The left side feed rail is also the cartridge stop. The right side moves up and down with the right locking lug. If ether one is warn or damaged it would cause a problem. Left rail is spring steel and should not ware but can be rusted. right side feed rail is sort of flimsy and could be damaged. Left side held in with one screw and can be taken out without taking the whole gun apart. Right side has a screw next to the barrel above the loading gate. Some times you can get it out after removing the loading gate and taking out the pivot screw. The rear portion on both has a ramp to raise the cartridge rim in front of the bolt face. Old guns with a lot of ware can have a multitude of feeding problems.
    Last edited by John Taylor; 11-25-2018 at 12:31 AM.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Is the cartridge pusher from the magazine touching the elevator?. In one of the pics it looks like it is touching the front of the elevator. Chamber itself looks a little cruddy. Maybe a good scrubbing will remove the crud and hopefully getting cartridges from the elevator to the chamber easier.Frank

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Its 1 am and I just finished putting the whole rifle together. Turns out you need the strength of a thousand gods and the luck of a **** leprechaun for the BOLT CARRIER, FIRING PIN, LEVER, and EXTRACTOR to all line up perfectly. I would of had an easier time aligning the stars to make a Winchester W than to get all of those lined up for one pin.

    Long story short, I cleaned what I could, and polished the pieces that looked like they needed it. 130 years of debris and oil in there.
    As for the cartridge carrier I took the screw out but it didnt fall out. I tried to lift it up abit with a screwdriver but I didnt want to break it so I left it there. The cartridge stop on the other hand just falls out easily. I feel like I would need to buff out some sharp edges on the back of both pieces but apparently 130 years ago the steel was harder then my files because they dont bite for beans! I just wanted a light layer of metal off but I guess not.

    Also I took some pictures. I think the day this rifle was made it was quite special. maybe a custom order. I would need to get the CODY Museum paper for it. The rifle is far from mint but its MY rifle and I love it!

    It had some case hardening on it.
    Lower tang:


    Hammer:


    When I thought it wouldn't be THAT complicated:

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master

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    How does it cycle after the fluff and buff?

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteodoc08 View Post
    How does it cycle after the fluff and buff?
    The rounds still get stuck, il probably need to round of some edges on the cartridge stop and carrier. And the rifle itself is actually abit stiffer, but that usually gets fixed when I shoot the first shot with it. I feel like removing all the 130 year old grease and grime made it abit less smooth! before it had that as a smooth buffer. Is there any better grease/oil I could use? I feel like bearing grease would make rifles operate easier instead of Rem oil. Thats what I used.

    And does anyone know how hard it would be to remove the barrel? I would like to buff out the chamber too, and it would be alot easier if I would have the barrel in-hand. How hard would it be to unscrew and line it back up straight after screwing it in?

  14. #34
    Boolit Master

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    Barrel should come off without to much effort, you will need a good barrel vice. I made up a set of V blocks out of aluminum that work great for holding octagon barrel. I use a big Crescent wrench with some heavy paper to protect the finish on the action.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master

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    Barrel should come off without to much effort, you will need a good barrel vice. I made up a set of V blocks out of aluminum that work great for holding octagon barrel. I use a big Crescent wrench with some heavy paper to protect the finish on the action.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Taylor View Post
    Barrel should come off without to much effort, you will need a good barrel vice. I made up a set of V blocks out of aluminum that work great for holding octagon barrel. I use a big Crescent wrench with some heavy paper to protect the finish on the action.
    I saw a guy just put the barrel in a vice with wood shims or felt, and use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the receiver..

  17. #37
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Fixed My problem! They chamber super well now.

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Fixed My problem! They chamber super well now.

    How did you end up fixing the problem?

  19. #39
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteodoc08 View Post
    How did you end up fixing the problem?
    Had to shorten the cartridge stop/guide. The angle on them to feed the cartridge in the chamber is way to steep, so I just cut them down at a less sever angle. To give the cartridge a chance to slide. Works great.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master
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    This is funny. Just last night I finished tinkering with my buddy's 94. Same problem but I found a solution by (after taking it all apart) filing and polishing the things on the sides (interior) of the elevator. They are held in place with a screw that is just about impossible to reach. With the spring loading door removed, you can just about reach the one side. The head of one of the screws was proud and the cartridge would drag as it started it's trip toward the chamber. The ends of each screw were as they should be, exposed to the slab sides exterior, so I just filed the interior and polished enough material away so to as allow an unencumbered trip for the cartridge. It works!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check