i prefer cookie cutter dip lubing. it's faster and easier than pan lubing, at least it is for me.
i prefer cookie cutter dip lubing. it's faster and easier than pan lubing, at least it is for me.
Thats neat pictures, thanks for sharing RFD.
OP, I dont feel your pain as I aint ever had a bad experience pan lubing. However, Id say you wouldnt have a problem purchasing a lubesizer from the forum, and having it shipped cross the line. I've shipped a few things to canada before, but I dont know if there is any regulations in regards to ammo making items.
As long as you cast bullets with perfect bases, then pan lubing can be difficult. Thrity cals are pretty easy, 27 cals get a little frustrating but its those darn 6.5s that will have you cursing the gods of dominos as the fall over like lemmings. I would drop the next bullets into the empty holes left from cutting out the old bullets and then set the tray on a level hot plate to remelt the lube. Once the lube was melted and leveled off. Turn the heat off and let it harden around the bullets. I was using Bens Red. Once it was solid, put it in the fridge to harden it bit more. Then use a home made cookie cutter. It was pretty simple and easy unless working with narrow bullets. The 30 cals were stable, .270 can be a bit nerve racking.
"Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
~Theodore Roosevelt~
Guy La Pourqe,
Here is a message from a friend of mine on anther forum about your problem getting a lube machine, hope it helps.
Cabalas, Bass Pro, now that wholesale sports has dried up, there are fewer places to go.
One in London had a lot of stuff - Gobles - https://gobles.ca/
lots of stuff for loading, etc.
Elwood Epps will box and send it, I am sure. I would check them first, then Gobles.
https://ellwoodepps.com/
I read this thread out of curiosity since I strictly powder coat all my boolits. I keep hearing how much of a pain PC is but looking at what you guys are dealing with I would much rather clean up some dry powder coat spill vs your hot lube.
Nothing is easy and all these methods have their pros and cons but to tell you the truth PC looks better to me. I just shake, shake, shake and stand those bad boys up on my tray then bake and its done. I think PC offers better lube and protection to the projectile. Maybe I just got used to PC but I'm sticking with that.
it really all depends on the bullet and its application. PC is great for my handgun bullets but totally inappropriate and incorrect for BPCR long distance events, where either greasers or ppb's will rule.
Something to keep in mind, is when there is no power to run your ovens to cure the PC, the other methods will still work.
2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
~~ WWG1WGA ~~
Restore the Republic!!!
For the Fudds > "Those who appease a tiger, do so in the hope that the tiger will eat them last." -Winston Churchill.
President Reagan tells it like it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6MwPgPK7WQ
Phil Robertson explains the Wall: https://youtu.be/f9d1Wof7S4o
Guy La Pourqe,
I just had the chance to look at the two websites my friend in BC suggested, frankly I think you are in deep do do, frankly both those businesses would not survive operating here in the US. They look to be so poorly inventoried, and whoever puts their website together should be in jail, for charging them money for the operation of their site. Nothing in either a Lyman or RCBS lube machine, real sharp folks there, sell the lube, and some dies, but no machine to put them in, can't make this stuff up folks, what a joke. Maybe someone can send you a machine a piece at a time until you have a complete machine, might only take ten or fifteen mailing. I feel bad for anyone who has to deal with brain dead government and brain dead sporting goods businesses.
I roll them heated in lube or dip them in melted lube or let a great handful swim for a while and go fishing with tweezers.
Place them standing on baking paper to ooze off and solidify.
Scrape off extra lube on paper when done and back into tin.
Can’t get much more complicated than that can it?
My old beat up tobacco tin does one hell of a lot of bullets before I need to make some more.
Sometimes I even finger lube but I reckon a hot bullet soaks the lube on soo much better.
I can set my self up about any where I feel at the time to be.
Obviously I need to spend some serious money on more specialised equipment to obtain more or less the same quality of product as I’m getting now.
Last edited by barrabruce; 05-23-2018 at 08:40 AM.
There are zero government regulations against selling reloading equipment across the border. As far as I'm aware, the only exception is that the U.S. government prohibits the export of automatic annealing machines, or so I've heard. Nearly every firearms import/export regulation we run into up here are not due to Canadian import rules (there are very few), but rather to American export rules.
The main problem with most Canadian companies that deal in this stuff is that they hold no inventory and charge you for the "service" of ordering it from America, which you can do yourself
I try to order from Buffalo Arms whenever they have the stuff. Dave Gullo is a great guy, and a great guy to do business with.
Chris.
That's the nail on the head right there. A I said in one of the earlier posts in this thread, I buy almost everything from Titan, or from Lee or Lyman or CH4D directly. Even with the exchange rate, I usually end up paying less to my door, than buying from a Canuck distributor. Sad but true.
I'm pretty sure, if you don't know anyone well enough on here, that any good gun shop in the US would ship legal stuff to you; One guy even accepts Bitcoin for orders of most anything, it costs you a little but it's doable. (He ships firearms to your local FFL, everything legal.But could buy you whatever I'd think.) I imagine others do the same. Possibly George could be talked into helping, also. (Lay in some coffee and whiskey probably first...)
I use essentially the same system, shown to me years ago by Dan Cash. Place the unlubed bullets nose first into a loading block. Then place the pan over block and invert the whole shebang to have them well spaced. It is important that the pan sides have a bit of taper and is not too deep. Double boiler is the way to go if you do not want to scorch your lube. After the lube has cooled, place the block with the bullets in it on several layers of terry cloth towel and push them through from the nose end. The little plastic trays some pistol ammo comes in are perfect for holding them until they are loaded.
I think pan lubing birds would be cruel.
My history with pan lubing boolits isn't stellar, either. I'd only do it today when I haven't time to buy or make the proper die for my lubrisizers.
For low-power pistol boolits, (i.e. .32 Long Colt) I do use Liquid Alox in a baggie.
I cast some tapered boolits for Schuetzen rifles. I made the necessary tapered die to avoid pan-lubing them.
Cognitive Dissident
I pan lubed when I was young & poor. I melted the lube in one of those good quality pie pans that they USED to make in THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Before sam walton started buying everything from china. Put the bullets down into the lube & stuck the pie pan into the fridge. Cut them out using a LYMAN lube cutter, sized in a 310 tool. Put more bullets in the holes in the pie pan, add a small bit of lube & stick it in the oven again. Rinse, repeat.
Use a LYMAN 450 these days, sometimes tumble lube. Still have my lube cutters, 310 tools and GOOD PIE PANS.
I'm still poor, but no longer young.
I HATE auto-correct
Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.
My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.
SASS #375 Life
I pan lube and also use my Lyman lubrisizer. But I prefer to shoot as cast pan lubed vs. running them through my lubrisizer. I've had the occasional bullet tip over in the pan, and fumble to try to get them out with large tweezers or needlenose pliers. I've never dumped or spilled a pan, as I don't even want to consider that!
I use flexible pans to situate the bullets in for lubing so the brick of wax/bullets can be easily removed to push the bullets out. I have a piece of wood with a hole in it clamped to my bench so I can hold a bullet over the hole and push it out easily without breaking the block. I save my blocks of wax and put the next batch of bullets back in the holes. Then I melt more lube and pour it into the same pan again. The hot lube fills in around the bullets and speeds up subsequent lubing so it wont take as long.
After many years of trying various methods I've got mine down to a method that works for me and isn't a pain anymore.
Well I finally gave up on a Canadian solution to a lube/sizer and my wife bought me a proper double-boiler expressly for pan lubing and I am all grins now. My recipe is good ol' beeswax, Crisco and olive oil. Works like a dream although I do get a little bit on my hands... but it's all natural so I don't care too much.
I have a little hotplate and double boiler I got at Walmart cheap. Keeps my lube making out of my wife's kitchen, and me out of trouble!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |