If using a die and press what is the need for safety glasses?
My presses dump the Primer's out the bottom and the die prevents anything going elsewhere.
If using a die and press what is the need for safety glasses?
My presses dump the Primer's out the bottom and the die prevents anything going elsewhere.
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Lets make America GREAT again!
Go, Go, Go, Go, Go Donald Trump
Keep your head on your shoulders
Sit with your back to the wall
Be ready to draw on a moments notice
Had my fair share go off. Most have been on a 1050 where it knocked the center out and left the ring. Don't ever buy wet tumbled brass with primers intact. Then I've had live primers hit the ground and dropped something on it. No fun either way.
Thanks jon_b that's the first kind of idea along the lines of what I was looking for, I do a lot of woodworking so that setup would be simple for me to make.
When disposing of loose live primers that you don't want to try using in loaded rounds what is regarded as a completely safe way to do so? I have read that water only disables them temporarily, is oil saturated into them the trick? I'm sure i can find a way to get rid of them either way, but would like to know what the correct procedure is to make sure they are 100% incapable of going off in the future, is there one?
Last edited by Andy; 03-18-2017 at 08:22 PM.
I too have deprimed many live primers. It's probably not the safest but I have never had any trouble. You could always soak them before depriming if you were concerned about that. I always make a point to wear safety glasses while doing it though
I have deprimed some live primers with no issues or detonations but it can happen done in a press with a depriming die that dosnt seal allows for no pressure build up and directs and down onto the ram area. Or is should. Using the hand deprimers is a little different as they may be open to pressure relief at different areas. But this is only an issue IF a primer detonates. Deading them with a solvent or oil working carefully and you should have no detonations. I would be more concerened with the primer dust pellets build up in the spent primer catcher than the one being pushed out. A build up in there could be several to a hundred or better build up of primers.
Slowly de-prime and re-use them. I have done it many times, and never had a problem.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
I deconstruct a lot of old ammunition that is donated to me by others and I've pulled the bullets, dumped the powder, and then deprimed the cases using a Lee or RCBS Universal depriming die. Never had one go off in the die yet and I save the live primers and use them for case reforming duty with a blank charge and cornmeal. (Hey, they are free primers ... why would I use up my perfectly good, new, and expensive primers for case fire-forming?) Just my 2 cents worth ...
I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!
If you want hitech get handloaders manual of cartridge conversions by Donnelly, in 4th edition and
Probably earlier versions is an elaborate fireforming rig that would fire off the primers.
Yes, I've read some of the posts on here about "Gloobits", but haven't tried them myself. Unfortunately we're in a high density housing, residential area and we also have a basement suite with a tenant ... so if I started shooting "Gloobits" in my reloading / gun shop I would likely get a SWAT call out!
I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!
I would not deprime live primers in Mil Spec cases. I had 100 cases that had the bullets pulled and powder dumped. They had crimped in primers. I thought I would deactivate the primers with WD-40. Put the cases in a coffee can poured in WD-40 (I buy WD-40 by the gallon can).
Next day I thought I would try one in my 30-06 just to see if the primer would go off - while it was still wet I chambered one of the cases and pulled the trigger - BANG.
Ok - I thought I didn't let them soak long enough. 7 days later pulled anouther one out of the WD-40, let it drip a little - chambered it - BANG.
With those cases having a CRIMPED in primer there was no way I was going to deprime them on my press. I just popped the rest of the primer in my rifle.
I do deprime live primers on my press when the need arises - just no MilSpec with crimped in primers.
Big Bore = 45+
If you do not have a Universal decapping die you can pick a decapping and sizing die that is longer than the body and bigger ID than the cases you want to deprime.
+1 on the Harvey deprimer; with the mainstream depriming tools failing to deprime some of my crimped-primer USGI cases, I got a Harvey and never want to go back.
http://www.harveydeprimer.com/
One advantage of it is that I can keep it close by during normal loading operations; if I get a goobered primer inserted into one of my cases, I don't have to swap out anything in my press / loading hardware / etc; just pick up the Harvey and, 'snap'.
I've yet to find something a lee universal decapper won't digest.
Get a Lee universial decapping die ..... problem solved.
I use a Lee Classic de-priming punch and base for pistol brass. Leather palm glove, leather mallet & safety glasses. Probably done a couple hundred & never had one go off. Reused the primers for target loads. They all worked.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |