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Last edited by btroj; 10-06-2015 at 05:40 PM.
Thanks for sharing this. I think it is worth a try.
One of the neat things about the polyolester oils is their extremely low evaporation rate. They also leave very, very little residue when they DO evaporate, yet have an extremely high film strength for the viscosity.
Something I will caution against is buying the ester oil brand that contains "Ice 32" as an additive. I've determined that Ice 32 must be some sort of high-powered surfacant and will allow one drop of ester oil to instantly thin and coat an entire mould, inside and out, in about .002 seconds. That must be how it works to make the refrigerant more effective at heat absorption: By ensuring the oil/refrigerant mix thoroughly wets the inside surfaces of the heat transfer elements in the air conditioning system. Stick with the straight, ISO 100 or 150 ester oil such as Btroj pictured and you will not be disappointed.
PS for those not yet familiar with the technique, instructions for proper and effective mould lubrication are discussed in a sticky thread in the mould maintenance/design forum.
Gear
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Last edited by btroj; 10-06-2015 at 05:41 PM.
I have been using this stuff for about the past 6 months since Gear told me about it.
It is absolutely the best stuff I have ever put on a mold bar none.
All the 2cycle oils (and similar products) that I have used in the past have occasionally migrated to the edge of the cavities, at which point they immediately started causing poor base fill out and wrinkles. This stuff migrates even faster, but does not seem to have any ill effect on the boolit bases unless I really biff it and get a lot of it in the cavities somehow. It just rides on top of the mold and does it's job.
It appears to leave almost no brown residue on the mold also, which is simply amazing. It's almost like it just ignores the heat of the mold and doesn't out gas or something.
I love the feel of the mold with this lube in place as well you get to feel the "snick" when you slide the sprue plate over (Just a personal enjoyment that means exactly zip).
I got mine right up the street at Advanced Auto for less than $15 IIRC.
I have passed this to several other members and they all agree that they are sold and won't go back.
Thanks for researching this Brad! Good information, learned from a lot of hard work.
Last edited by MBTcustom; 01-16-2014 at 01:58 PM.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
OK I guess I don't no how to use Google, how the heck do I find this stuff ?
I have no auto parts stores near me.
Hate is like drinking poison and hoping the other man dies.
*Cohesiveness* *Leadership* *a common cause***
***In a gunfight your expected to be an active participant in your own rescue***
The effective range of an excuse is ZERO Meters
Does it creep enough to get up under the sprue plate pivot point and prevent galling?
Thanks for the info guys. It will be my next purchase tomorrow.
Courage is being scared to death-but saddling up anyway. John Wayne
A man has to do what a man has to do. John Wayne
Fortunately or unfortunately I have a good amount of Redline 2 cycle ester based oil, and enough to last a long while. It works real good. I would go with the 100% Ester if I buy some new mold oil.
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Last edited by btroj; 10-06-2015 at 05:41 PM.
I confess, I didn't know anything about the ICE additive being undesirable till Gear just mentioned it. This is the stuff I'm using now, and even with the ICE sufactant, it's better than anything I've used up to this point. Wait......you mean if I get the stuff in the OP it get's better?!?!?!?!
Attachment 93715
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
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Last edited by btroj; 10-06-2015 at 05:41 PM.
I had tried just that very stuff, Tim, along with a variety of pure base-stock PAOs and PAGs, and was impressed with most of it but not with how it wicked everywhere I didn't want it on a hot mould. Brad tried the Carquest stuff (since I'd talked him into buying some sort of AC ester oil for lube experiments ) and reported it was fantastic on moulds. I went back and tried some pure POE 150 base I had on hand and found he was right, it really did the trick. No more two-stroke oil for me, and no more dark varnish on my beautiful custom moulds.
Gear
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Last edited by btroj; 10-06-2015 at 05:42 PM.
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Last edited by btroj; 10-06-2015 at 05:42 PM.
If anyone is interested in understanding why this stuff is so good here is some good reading.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...72#Post1252272
Sadly Gear turned me onto this site too.
My wife laughs about the fact I spend so much time online talking to strangers about lubrication......
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/s...+premium+ester
The link above is for Car quest, but it shows a bunch of oils that are super ester. Can someone point me to the correct one to get. I can order it from a store lewiston Maine
Sorry I don't know about all these things so help is appreciated.
Sam
Hate is like drinking poison and hoping the other man dies.
*Cohesiveness* *Leadership* *a common cause***
***In a gunfight your expected to be an active participant in your own rescue***
The effective range of an excuse is ZERO Meters
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/s...411_?acesApp=0
This one should do. The part number should get you what you want. 8 ounces will last you quite a while.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |