1884 Trapdoor Springfield; firing pin length?

[SierraWhiskeyMC]

What is the correct length for the firing pin for an 1884 Trapdoor Springfield?

The original firing pin was broken or ground off (perhaps as a part of a de-mil process) so that it was recessed from the bolt face about 1/8" when it was fully inserted (all the way against the stop).

A few days ago, I asked a friend of mine who's an experienced TIG/MIG welder if he could weld up/build up the tip of the firing pin about 1/4"; he said he'd give it a shot. It's the steel firing pin, not the aluminum bronze alloy pin.

Looked kind of ugly when it came back, but after some very careful grinding and test-fitting, the firing pin when fully retracted against the retaining screw is flush to the bolt face. Is this correct, or should it be recessed by some amount?

I don't have any .45-70 cases yet; planning on ordering some in the next few days, along with some dies. I want to see what a few primer strikes look like with the repaired pin before I put powder and boolits in there.

The pin is quite hard and tough, so I feel pretty good that I won't have the kinds of problems that they had back in the 1880's with bent pins and accidental ignition when closing the trapdoor.

My Granddad bought this rifle when he was a kid in NYC around 1905-1910 for a quarter. That was actually a fair amount of money in those days.

I think that when he got it, the barrel was plugged with lead. I think he cut and re-crowned the barrel; it's now 22-1/2" long, and there is no evidence that it ever had a front sight. As far as I know, the original barrels were around 32", 26-5/8", and 22". The stock looks like a carbine stock (short forend) but it does not have the rail and ring.

The rear sight and mounting screws are missing. That's not a big deal though, as with the non-standard barrel length and the light loads I'll eventually be firing in it, the original sights would have been too far off anyway. Haven't quite decided on what to do about the rear sight yet, but I have some spring bronze and some brass, so I may just cobble up something that'll git 'er done.

I'm going to fab up a hooded blade front sight, most likely just clamp-on for starters, as I'm not too keen on drilling/tapping the barrel.

There was some rust, but that was stopped many years ago.

The stock is pretty beat up, but still has the cartouche "SWP 1889", the barrel has "VP" then what might be a feather or eagles' head, and another "P" after that.

The bore is really bright and shiny, with no evidence of leading or copper fouling. I'm surprised it's in such good shape after so many years of disuse.

It's going to be a lot of fun to shoot this rifle. It had been sitting on my Dad's rifle rack for as long as I can remember, just waiting for some TLC.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I went and dug my 1884 long model trapdoor out just to look. I`m not able to measure the amount of recess, between 1/32 and 1/16", when the door is opened. Sounds like a nice shooter project gun you have there as well as a good memory of where it came from.Robert

[SierraWhiskeyMC]

Thanks very kindly for checking and replying. That makes sense; one really wouldn't want a bit of sand or fouling getting trapped in the pin retaining slot, causing the end of the firing pin to push the primer in when closing the trapdoor.

If you wouldn't mind looking again - how far raised from the "striker face" is the big end of the pin when the primer end of the pin is flush with the bolt face? That would be lots easier to measure.

I was somewhat surprised to discover that the firing pin was completely free-floating within the range permitted by the slot and retaining screw.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Being a retired plumber, I`m used to using inches and feet for measurements. With the door closed on a dummy primer round the amount of striker surface pushed out for the hammer strike is 1/32" exactly. My firing pin is brass or bronze metal as it is that yellowish color. I paid a whopping $250 for mine about 20 odd years back at a show. It shoots like a houseafire (that`s excellent accuracy to you city boy`s)! Hope I was a bit of a help for you.Robert

[SierraWhiskeyMC]

Thanks very kindly for your help; I appreciate it.

After a bit more grinding/polishing, mine's right about there now too.

According to a book I was reading a week ago, your pin is most likely a bronze-aluminum alloy, which would make it appear yellow-ish. Try holding a magnet to it; if it doesn't stick, it's the bronze-aluminum alloy.

$250 greenbacks? Yikes - they sure were mighty proud of that firing pin!

It may be possible that my particular rifle (which I think may have originally been a carbine, or converted to a carbine prior to being removed from service)

Still need to slug my bore, but don't have any rounds that large. I think I'll squeeze a few .45 wadcutters to fatten 'em up a bit.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I guess I didn`t quite phrase that correctly. I bought the rifle for $250. If your bore is anything like mine, and a lot of other people`s trapdoors, the bore will be oversized than a standard .458". Mine shoots a custom made .463" boolet I came across. Try trapdoors.com for parts.Robert

[bob208]

i will pull one of mine and measure it for you.