MidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxInline FabricationLoad Data
Snyders JerkyRotoMetals2WidenersTitan Reloading
Lee Precision
Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: Price check on a type 99 Arisaka

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    RayinNH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    2,361

    Price check on a type 99 Arisaka

    I saw a type 99 Arisaka in a yard sale today. I know nothing about them, but hoped someone could give me a price check based on what I remember about it. Over all it looked pretty decent, barrel looked good, stock had a few dings and dents.The two piece stock joint was still tight. The wire bipod was missing as well as the cleaning rod. The mum was mostly there but it has been ground, like they ground to about half the depth of the imprint. It had the bayonet with it. They were asking $200 firm. They also had a box of factory loads with it included in the price...Ray
    Proud member in the basket of deplorables.

    I've got the itch, but don't got the scratch.




  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Posts
    6,134
    There are still allot of the type 99s around and with all the missing stuff and no mum, I'd say pass but that's me. If he would take less it would be a different story but nothing special for $200.
    Aim small, miss small!

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,023
    Bayonets are getting pretty pricey in general, I don't know about the Jap ones in
    particular. If you say that $25 to $50 is for the bayonet (and it may be worth more),
    then you are talking about $150 to $175 for the rifle. If the bore is good, and most were
    chromed so are in near mint condition, I'd pay that. My example of this is a really accurate,
    like about 1.5-2" at 100 yds with jacketed handloads and stock sights. Shot right to the
    sights, too.

    Depends on how bad you need the money for the 'competition' and there is ALWAYS
    competition for $$$$ !

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Posts
    6,134
    I missed the part about the bayonet. That helps. If he still has it, wave 150 under his nose and he will probably take it, or come down to 175. I got one a couple years ago for $100. It's a ditch rifle but still has the mum in tact.
    Aim small, miss small!

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,023
    Why do you say "it's a ditch rifle'?? Do you mean the last ditch models? If so, what
    in the description makes you think so? I don't think they had the monopod and all
    99's had a two piece stock.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Posts
    6,134
    The rifle has nothing on it. The stock is spliced like most but not put together all that well and they used poor hardware. The sites are solid and not movable. If I remember right they even used some nails in putting it together. Yes it was one of the last(ditch) ones made.
    Aim small, miss small!

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
    Shiori357's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Northan California
    Posts
    19
    I got my Arisaka Type99 about same price in several weeks ago at local gun show, but without bayonet.
    I'm living in California and $200 is reasonable price around this area.

    Most of west coast states fairly put Arisaka rifle price $175 to $350 for that condition.

    You could buy reproduction Cleaning Rod ($8-12 full length 23” or 4” short version some late rifle)
    www.ima-usa.com

    And Monopod ($35 without rear band, $60 with rear band)
    www.gunpartscorp.com
    Which depend on your rifle production era.

    Original bayonet (Japanese type 30 bayonet) price jump up so far, just like US M4 bayonet ($75 to 125)
    Type 30 reproduction bayonet price now around $50, I’m not sure original price in today.
    www.ima-usa.com
    I paid $40 for mine (original), but that was 15 years ago. (Condition was excellent to upper good)

    If your Arisaka has anti aircraft rear sight (with both wings) should be build around 1942 to 1943 or early, depend on which arsenal to been build.

    For more detail; www.radix.net

    Even serial number did not matching, $200 is fair price to me.

    From Type 99, old Japanese production quality & parts standard was reach to the world industrial level,
    which mean no problem to interchange parts without adjustment by gunsmith.

    Type 38 or early rifles are NOT interchangeable main firing relate parts, some miner adjustment necessary for safe shooting purpose.

    Arisaka action is strongest in the world at WWI to WWII military bolt-action rifles, which proofed by NRA test report around 1950's.

    My Type 99 has deep grind off Mum, unmatched serial number on bolt assy.
    Series 22 (23?) Kokura arsenal, many folks say Tokyo arsenal but they relocate after earth quake in Tokyo,
    Kokura is city name where part of south end of west island. (Kyu-shyu island near Nagasaki)

    Using Lyman 314299 cast boolit (200gr RN) with cheap scrap wheel weight.
    W231 fast burn powder (10.7gr) will push MV 1270fps.

    100 yards bench rest shoot by 40 years old sloppy eye vision, still make 2" grouping pattern,
    (Yes pattern, not specific shot grouping) with original military open sight & trigger.

    Slag groove / throat Dia .312 to .313 on my type 99, cast boolit sizing to .314 which just same size as mold drop off,
    I use lube/sizer press still for just add lube and GCs seating purpose.



    Most of Type 99 has chrome plated bore, except latest "Last Ditch version" so no issue on bore condition,
    rifling twist is 9-3/4" on 22" length barrel, I mean most of 150gr to 210gr boolit will steady on the air by this twist rate.

    Down point of 7.7x58 (7.7mm Jap) cartridge or empty cases are may cost you, I paid about $60 for 50 Rds of Norma brand new cases.
    Preload ammo 150gr FMJ around $25-30 for 20 Rds in most of suppliers.

    You could make 7.7x58 case from 270Win or 30-06, those are fudge challenge for person who not get use to this type of project.

    I use cheap tube cutter and excessive neck part off about ¼” from 270 Win case, and then give extra lube to use Lee full-length sizer die.

    First try would not be able to complete sheet but, leave those cases for few days, then try second form up and succeed, you know why?

    Brass material release metal form stress in few days by itself.
    You could heat up and quenching by water as well, but I do not use this method for tiny case wall & mouth on fire arms cases.

    I use cheapest single stage press, which Lee Reloader press (about $20) on this work,
    Believe or not one step at time formwork will handle by this weak press.

    7.7mm Jap (7.7x58) reloading die set was not cost much at Midway.
    Lee has list on this, it was back order item but came in to my hand within 3 weeks from online order, thanks Midway !


    I like my type 99 because get back of my origin, unfortunately at back in Japan no body able to keep those rifles at all.
    Gun control law was horrible there and that was my main reason to leaving in twenty years ago.

    However, believe or not this WWII infantry rifle is accurate enough for fun,
    70 years or more time pass with sad history through this barrel.

    I got fun with world buddies today’s weekend at shooting range.
    M1 Garland, M1917, 03A3, Kar98k, K31, Carcano, Mossin Nagant and Arisaka.

    Appreciate those “missing historical rifles” are live in here US.
    I’m grad to be US citizen and I like grind off “Mum” rifle on my hand.

    Shiori Okamoto
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Groping 2.jpg   Type99.jpg   WWII.JPG  
    Last edited by Shiori357; 05-02-2010 at 03:15 PM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    RayinNH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    2,361
    Well I went back and got the rifle today, the ammo was not included, more on that later. Under good light tonight, I cleaned it and looked over the numbers and symbols with the help of the site that Shiori posted. First the bolt matches the action, same number. It has the aircraft sights, but as mentioned in my first post, it doesn't have the wire bipod or cleaning rod. No big deal as it will be a shooter. Bayonet was included.

    Looking over the symbols it translates to:
    Type 99
    Kokura Arsenal
    Series 21

    Bayonet
    Straight contoured quillon
    contoured grip
    Made by National Denki (National Electric) under Kokura Arsenal supervision

    The ammo was $15, a price the wife said the husband was offered by a gun shop. I have 22 factory loads and 16 empty cases all Norma. I paid $200 for the gun. The husband wasn't there, he was doing a side job. The wife said he was laid off after 20 years with the same company. I didn't try to get it lower, figured they probably needed it more than I did.

    Over all I think it's going to be a fun project to play with...Ray
    Proud member in the basket of deplorables.

    I've got the itch, but don't got the scratch.




  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,023
    Should be chromed bore, mine is a real shooter with jacketed loads in Prvi (Graf) brass.
    I don't know if Graf and Sons has it in stock now, but if they do, I recommend it as good
    brass and FAR cheaper than the Norma stuff.

    If I understand Shiori357, he is now a US citizen and wants to grind the "mum" off of his
    hand. I got a laugh at that one! Welcome, sir. All legal immigrants are a benefit to the
    country and are welcomed heartily.

    My 99 has the aircraft wings, action cover, sling (altho it is VERY stiff), monopod, intact Mum
    and is a great shooter. I find the safety curious at minimum and unless I massively misunderstand
    it, nearly worthless in actual use. Certainly SAFE when on, but way hard to put on and
    worse, off.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    4,635
    Does engaging the safety also reduce pressure on the striker spring?

    I only had a Blank firing drill rifle years ago, gave it to my brother he still has it.
    Seemed to me the safety was pretty easy to operate even when wearing thick gloves. A friend who lost most of his thumb in a printing press accident said he liked the Arisaka because you didn't need thumbs to operate it.

    The trigger had a pin that would not allow the trigger to be pulled unless the action was completely closed and handle all the way down.

    My Drill rifle had a one piece stock, no dovetailed pieces.

    Some last ditch rifles I've seen had a wooden butt plate and the sling nailed to the side of the butt.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Alturas, California...where the west still lives!
    Posts
    2,255
    Just a quick word of advice on the Arisaka.......find the disassembly instructions on the net and note how the striker (firing pin) is installed when reassembling. If you position it incorrectly, it will still go back together but lock up tight when the bolt is installed in the gun. If you're in this predicament, the action will have to be removed from the stock to repair. Best bet.......do it right the first time!

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,023
    I can see how you could operate it without a thumb, but it took a 10+ lb push with the
    palm and a hard rotation about 90 deg to operate, IIRC. Haven't even tried to put it
    on in more than a decade, going on old memory.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Communism running rampant!
    Posts
    4,794
    Shiori Okamoto,

    A belated welcome to this forum .......... and also to this country!

    I praise your PASSION for these historical rifles and this country's second ammendment!

    It's a pleasure to see someone remove themselves from any form of oppression and move here and embrace and help defend our freedoms!

    Best regards

    Three 44s

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    480
    Shiori Okamoto;

    I will second Three44s' welcome, both to the forum and to the country. A Type 99 and an M-1 Carbine are two great rifles to get started with.

    How did you start to get into shooting? Was it after you entered the USA?

    Take care.


    Sean

  15. #15
    Boolit Mold
    Shiori357's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Northan California
    Posts
    19
    Thanks for reply my post; MtGun44, Three44s and Sean.

    I use to be a revolver shooter, which PPC compatiotion match.
    Figure out true shooting method in US, learn a lot through handgun serious target shooting.

    Got married, have two sons, involved cub & boy scout programs, still current busy dad.

    However, I have chance to get back to this world.
    and, no more handguns competition, if I do so will be endless again.


    I would like to get back to main discussion regarding from RayinNH post.

    Conguratiations!
    You got upper good condition Arisaka Type99.

    Sounds like MtGun44 had mint condition Arisaka Type99, which collectors item.
    Those wourth to $500 to $900 on most, todays value.

    However, Me and RaininNH forcus on true safe shooting condition Arisaka Type99.
    We do not care of Mom's grind off or still on, but serious about bore condition and safe fun shooting, Hopefully "Mine is accurate!" that all about.

    So, I would like to share cast boolit acuracy, update reloading information, case forming know how for all about Arisaka 7.7x58 cartridge in this forum.

    We could bring up anything your experience through Arisaka 7.7mm here.

    Sofar, I try reforming cheaper way to get 7.7x58 case from 270Win & 30-06.
    Try to find economical & not bad acuracy load for this cartridge.

    I'm a shooter, not collector at all.
    And, I would like to know more about "Grandpa's Rifle" same as 'Grandpa's US M1 Carbine"


    Hopfully in someday, I could get M1917, 03A3, M1 Garandand & M14 (M1A) such a grate rifles & discuss at here.

    Lastly, put note about bulky safety knob on Arisaka family rifles.
    Those are design for use at bellow 32F with grove on hand.
    You may bring up in snow this Arisaka, should be understand concept of this safety knob.

    As you see Nanbu Type14, which elonged trriger guard for snow camp as well.
    That magazine stopper has other issue behind of, those purpose I will share in next discussion.

    Shiori

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,023
    Shiori,

    Thanks for the update. Best reason I ever heard for the safety on the 99. I bet they
    were not actually used much.

    I never thought the my Arisaka would be a collector's item. For me it is just a good
    shooting rifle. I have not yet tried cast in it, but it is accurate with jbullets. I kinda like
    the sights, too.

    Good to hear that your boys are in scouting, a good thing. Congratulations on having
    two sons.


    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    1,094
    About 10 years ago I bought a beat(semi sporterized) up Type 99 for $55. It shot very well. My brothers & I were impressed enough that we each bought a few of them. I ended up with a couple that were semi sporterized & a few that weren't. All but one barreled action are chrome lined. Only one has a mum & that is the 1st I bought.

    For cast bullets we have used Lee 311-093, Lee CTL312-160 and Lee C312-185.

    I have done some hunting with them. I always use the safety. IMO, they seem to be a great idea. Must be a personal preference thing. They all have there pros & cons.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,023
    Perotter,

    Well, you and the designer are in agreement. I don't think I ever heard of anyone else
    that had any use for the Arisaka safety.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    1,094
    It's good for when someone is hunting when it is bellow about 15F or so. I like a good thick glove then. For warm weather I prefer the M1 type.

  20. #20
    Boolit Mold
    Shiori357's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Northan California
    Posts
    19
    Folks

    Regarding safety knob, I agree and never use at all in the shooting range.
    Because original military spec trigger has no issue to safety on at this pupose.

    However, if you like to improve trigger pull and safety knob for sporter Type99 action, here is solution.

    Timney Featherlight Trigger unit for Arisaka

    They come with safety lever for Arisaka application on this product.
    I hope great impovement for sporter version / Hunting purpose.

    Shiori
    Last edited by Shiori357; 05-16-2010 at 12:31 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check