Side to side alignment problem

[Ferdinand]

I have a relatively new 158 gr SWC .357 Mag mold from Lee. Tonight I noticed that the bullets cast didn't have the two halves lined up perfectly. My questions are:

How do I correct this?, and, are these bullets OK to shoot? I run them through a .358 sizer die and install a gas check, ordinarily.

Thanks.

[Willbird]

Take a good hard look at the surfaces that align the two halves to each other, what you are looking for is a tiny burr, or a spatter of lead that is making them not line up properly.

[Dale53]

Ferdinand;
If your bullet mould is a two cavity Lee mould, chances are the alignment surfaces are galling. Aluminum to steel is not the most compatible mix of metals. However, the use of Bullshop's Sprue Plate lube on the alignment surfaces have solved that common problem for me. BS SPL does not build up or burn on (unlike other suggested mould lubes).

My shop will NOT be without it, if I have anything to do with it.

FWIW
Dale53

[MtGun44]

Yes, look for a chunk of something misaligning the halves. Look especially on the
angled end faces which set the alignment in that direction.

If not too far out of alignment you may find that running thru the luberisizer will
give you perfectly fine boolits that shoot well.

Bill

[Ferdinand]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I was looking for lead on the engagement surfaces when I first noticed this during casting and didn't spot any. Once the mold cooled I checked it closer and noticed some apparent burrs and resultant wear along the top where the sprue plate slides over it. I'm going to brush it with a nylon brush in hopes of removing anythint not so obvious tomorrow and try again.

[jack19512]

I get this sometimes with my Lee two cavity molds. It has nothing to do with lube per say. The two halves are just not aligning perfectly when closing for whatever reason. I never have this problem if I am paying attention and make sure the mold closes properly. I use a 1 inch dowel rod to break the sprue, I have found if I gently tap the mold halves when closing the mold this problem doesn't exist. Generally if you have a bit of lead in between the mold halves you will have an exaggerated parting line of lead in your boolit. I personally don't use these and just toss them back into the pot. I should add that I have found on some of my Lee molds the mold handles are more loose(sloppy)than I like and will tighten the bolt and nut that holds them together to decrease the clearance and snug the fit up a little.

[johnvid]

I noticed this with my Lee 2 cavity moulds. The mould blocks are loose on the handle and the weight of the sprue plate holds the left block cocked.
I lay the blocks flat on a table as I close the mould. You could also turn the mould on it's side as you close the mould. That also worked for me.

[MT Gianni]

I noticed this with my Lee 2 cavity moulds. The mould blocks are loose on the handle and the weight of the sprue plate holds the left block cocked.
I lay the blocks flat on a table as I close the mould. You could also turn the mould on it's side as you close the mould. That also worked for me.

A piece of wood or scrap 2x4 to close on helps as said. Make sure the blocks are flat when closing to ensure alignment.

[jack19512]

I noticed this with my Lee 2 cavity moulds. The mould blocks are loose on the handle and the weight of the sprue plate holds the left block cocked.

This is true. I do not open my sprue very much and it helps. Best cure for me has been to gently tap the mold halves when closing the mold, works every time. Never thought of laying the mold on something flat when closing it. I will have to try this and see which method I like best.

[DLCTEX]

I keep a scrap of Ash 1 X 6 next to the pot and set the mould on it to close. Once used to it, it's automatic.

[462]

Ferdinand,

Make sure that both mould halves are equally loose in their respective handle. It's common for with a Lee mould to have a tighter fit on one half than the other, due to the way the mould is held on the handle with a staked steel pin.

As others have said, rest the mould on a surface as you close it. Swing the sprue plate into place after the mould is closed.

[MtGun44]

You probably need to lube the sprue plate, too. Should be loose enough to
swing pretty freely.

Go to the bottom of the page, find Bull Shop's link and buy a bottle of Bull Plate Lube,
a lifetime supply of excellent lube which will keep the sprue plate clean and the top
of the mold undamaged. Do a search on Bull Plate Lube . . . . . . lots of good words,
do yourself and your mold a favor. Do not use bullet lube as Lee recommends, it burns
on to a nasty crud that is very hard to remove.

Bill

[Archer]

I got a Lee 158gr. SWC .357 mag mold just last week,
and it didn't want to line up. The problem with this one
was, the bolt that holds the handles togeather was to loose.
I screwed the nut on a little tighter, and it lined up prefectly.
May be something you want to check. It fixed this one.

[JIMinPHX]

I've had that problem before on Lee molds. The first few times, it was because I didn't lube the mold like the directions told me to do. The last time, it was because I didn't have any clearance between the mold handles & the slots on the blocks that they ride it.

[mooman76]

I got in the habit of taping the mould after closing. I tap it when opening to help the bullets drop so it's no more trouble to tap when closing. this helps to insure they are closed good if slightly misaligned. Some also clost the mould while on something flat so they close even.