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Thread: Tubing Jacket die pictures

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Tubing Jacket die pictures

    First off, Thanks for the pictures Hud.

    Here are some Pictures from Hud on his tubing jacket dies.

    I am pretty sure that if we have additional questions, he will try to answer.

    He indicated that he has been usign them for 15 plus years, he most likey can answer our questions.

    This is not a for sale thread. The thread is for informational purposes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubing_dies_1.jpg   Tubing_dies_2.jpg   Tubing_dies_3.jpg   Tubing_dies_4.jpg   Tubing_dies_5.jpg  

    Last edited by scrapcan; 02-01-2010 at 01:15 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    How much?
    If for sale.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

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    only to God and my own conscience.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    Nope they are not for sale, he offered pictures for those that asked what they looked like. Ioffered to put them up for him as he was having problems.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    I need to figure out how to attach thumbnails. I always trim my pics to make 'em smaller!
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    303,

    HUD said you were also trying to get them put up. I said if you hadn't got them up by the time I was ready I would do it.

    I think we will all have some additional questions for him.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Does he use the hydro press for this or the CSP-2 press?

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks Jeremy, 303 Guy and all....5/8s x 24 thread on the jacket die....sorry for not including the info with the pictures....CSP-2 is what they were designed for altho a bushing could be made to allow use with the Walnut Hill or the hydro press....more space for the hands and fingers...no real effort required with the soft coiled copper I used...never used hard drawn so I don't know if there's any difference...wouldn't think so since you don't aneal until after the jacket is formed... a larger thread might offer a safety margin...Hud

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Do the dies draw the copper, or just form it?
    I would suspect, without prior knowlege, that there would be some drawing with the action of the die.
    What is the weight of the finished swage?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    From what Ive read the tubing dies are made for a specific size/thickness of tubing so there isnt a lot of drawing.

    Rather it goes thru a couple steps to form the base, then seat a core and form the point

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    The die is made for the caliber, the punches are designed for the tubing side walls.

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold
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    Here is a link to Corbins website about his tubing jacket dies.

    http://www.corbins.com/tubing.htm

    I also have a PDF document that is a little different (still Corbin) but I am unsure on how to post it. Anyone tell me how to do it?

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    It looks to me like the two dies on the right are jacket reducing dies (draw die and punch). the left die of right two is the top dies or draw die and ounts in top of press, the right die is the punch die and mounts in ram.

    The other die has an ejector punch and it mounts in the ram, the three top punches mount in a floating holder that screws into the top of press.

    Is that correct HUD?

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Lets see if I can move those pics from Butch's link. Welcome butch, Im not sure about the pdf thing.
    Base forming

    Drawing

    Base flattening

    Finished jacket
    Last edited by ANeat; 02-02-2010 at 05:15 PM.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Aneat,

    yep you got them in. The last two steps are done in a core seat die with special punch. There is a draw die at step two.

  15. #15
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    bullet base

    Why do people think the base has to be so no lead is exposed. I use copper tubing and have never sealed the base. I looked at the Speer Grand slam and the Nosler Partition and those have exposed led. I can't believe that the lead will distort any in the milisecond it is in the barrel and affect accuracy. The Corbin boys do make nice stuff but I don't want to give up a 401k to own it . I assume that he corbin bullets will kill no better than for example sniper bt's bullets or anyone elses for that matter.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    gjb I would like to see some pics of you bullets if you have any (pics) Ive seen some guys that just roll over the base and dont close it up all the way.

    I think in a worse case scenario , guys may worry about the jacket being left in the barrel, especially with a hollow point, and exposed base.

    Do you roll over the base any at all or something else?

  17. #17
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    soft copper

    I just roll the base After all the jackets are cut I throw them in muriatic acid then under the melting pot and after a couple hundred the size them to .301 then start back forming the nose (2 stages). I just use a Lee Casslic cast I have yet to break the Lee but for 80.00 I can buy a lot of them compared to Corbin. I don't see why it is such a ego trip to announce " I HAVE A CORBIN" Corbin was not making presses in the 40's and 50's but people were making bullets. Sure things have advanced now there are starters on cars but before there where cranks and they got the job done. I made my own dies for the 9 ton Herters and the rifle bullets still killed just as dead and that is back in the late 60's. Now I try for the one hole accuracy. I have gotten close but after 40 yrs I just don't think it can be done. I am pretty sure I have shot a train load of powder ( maybe only a 1/2 train load).
    I sure do thank the people on this sight for all of the ideas. There are a lot of perfectionist on this sight when it comes to machining.I would be the first to take my hat off to them. Even us old timers still learn something. I just wish this snow would leave. 7 new inches on Friday. working on an H jacket out of soft copper

  18. #18
    Boolit Mold
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    When making large caliber tubing jackets, I put in a copper gas check under my lead core, seat core, then point form.

    Makes a real nice looking bullet base.

    Swageall
    LRBC -- One at a time --

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    I have made 358 tubing jackets from 3/8" hard and soft tubing. Both seem to work just fine. The soft does process a little easier though. I normally leave a 1/16" hole in the base or so, but I have closed them up too. Both shoot as good as the other.

    Swageall, I'll have to try the gas check idea, sounds cool. How big is the hole in your base before you put the gas check in?

    Dan

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub
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    GJB,

    What do you use to roll the base of the tubing? I have never thought it was necessary to completely close the base either, but something to grip the bottom would be some secure. The gas check idea is excellent and may be the perfect answer.

    As far as Corbin goes ... I have a Walnut Hill and I think it is a steal at the $300 I got it for. Sure that is a lot more than some of my other single stage presses. It thought makes the most difficult resizing jobs and such so much easier. I have an RCBS that I put a 2' cheater on, and when I have to lay on the bar to push a steel core bullet through it's a pain. That same bullet can be resized on the WH with one finger however. I couldn't justify spending $1k on a press though unless it did it all for you!

    Sarg

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check