Just need some assurance tuning my 1894c

[awaveritt]

Originally Posted by rvpilot76 View Post
Here is a link not just for disassembly, but tuning and smoothing as well. I did all the smoothing operations to my 1895 Cowboy, and the difference is unbelievable; it's a completely different rifle.
http://marauder.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm

After cycling my new 1894c several hundred times while watching the bowl games, I've come to the conclusion that the only thing still bothering me is the initial hitch caused by the excessive pressure required to unlock the finger lever plunger. I've read the article referenced above regarding clipping the spring and honing this part, but am a little squeamish about clipping springs. Can anyone assure me that this is pretty straightforward?

Aside from losing the tiny parts, what's the worst that can happen? Can you prescribe any "techniques/tricks" that can make this process easier? Thanks.

[dualsport]

I'm getting 'page can't be found'.

[McKenzie]

It appears that the URL got abbreviated along the way somehow.

[awaveritt]

Sorry. Here is the excerpt from the article. http://marauder.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm

LEVER

Inspect the lever for any burrs on the end where it bears on the carrier and bolt. Burnish marks on the end will show where it is in contact with the carrier and bolt. Lay a 2" by 2" piece of 400 grit wet or dry paper on a flat surface near the edge of your workbench. Place one side of the lever flat on the paper and polish the side. Then flip it over and polish the other side. Polish off any burrs found on the two narrow edges. Stay clear of any of the areas that will be outside of the action so that you don't remove any bluing. This is a polish only operation. Do not remove metal or change the shape of the end of the lever.

Editor's note: Also refer to the Marlin 94 Fix. It describes a fix for preventing a timing problem due to wear of the excellent Marlin action. Fixing the Marlin JAM

The finger lever plunger will need to be polished and the spring tension reduced. With a small punch or nail with the end ground flat, remove the plunger pin. The plunger is under tension, so be careful and don't let the plunger and spring jump out and get lost. Hold a finger over the plunger end or put a small rag over it to contain it. Using the 400 and 600-grit paper, polish the two bevels on the end of the plunger. Check the shank of the plunger and remove any burrs you may find. Place the spring back on the plunger and insert it into the hole in the lever. While looking through the pin hole, push the plunger in until the hole is clear. Continue pushing in the plunger until it is flush or nearly so. This will give you a good idea of the amount of the spring that can be removed. In my rifles, I removed two coils by cutting them off with a good pair of side cutters. I recommend that you only cut one coil at a time and then try the plunger in the lever for tension. The plunger must have enough tension to fully extend and lock the lever in the closed position. If you remove too much of the spring, you may find that the lever will unlock when you fire the rifle with heavy recoiling loads. Since your fingers are through the lever when firing, this is not a dangerous occurrence. However, it is annoying.

[dubber123]

Clipping springs is no big deal, they are cheap to replace. I never do so unless the problem can't be addressed otherwise. That said, I have only ever done trigger work on the Marlins, and there is no need to fool with springs to get a very nice trigger. I've never "slicked" an action, so that may be a different story. In the gunsmithing section, you will find a post with pics on doing an 1894 trigger. Pics are usually helpful.

[Four Fingers of Death]

One thing to remember when clipping springs is to look carefully before you clip and then try and get the spring to look like it did before clipping, so that it doesn't ride into places it shouldn't go and doesn't drag or be caused to lift up and drag if it rides on a rod (like a 1911 guide rod, firing pin, etc). Personally I prefer to use new springs.

PS, but a spare in case yo'all screw it up. Ask me how I know this

[NHlever]

Looks like Brownell's has most of those springs. Sometimes when I'm thinking clearly, I'll order a couple of spares before I dive into a project like that. I have clipped a couple of Marlin lever plunger springs, and it did improve that initial release.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...PLUNGER_SPRING

[two dogs]

nothing to it ,just clip a little at a time.maybe 1/8 or less.reassemble and try again.just takes time and patience.

[Firebricker]

I ordered another spring first for my 94 then took out the origanal one and clipped a coil off the new spring. That way I could go back to exactly what I had if I did'nt like the change. The spring was two or three dollar's from midway. I do like the clipped spring better. FB

[Four Fingers of Death]

I ordered another spring first for my 94 then took out the origanal one and clipped a coil off the new spring. That way I could go back to exactly what I had if I did'nt like the change. The spring was two or three dollar's from midway. I do like the clipped spring better. FB

Having a spare one in reserve before you start is very reassuring (and sensible, if it goes wrong the gun is not MIA).