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Thread: Help cleaning a used mold

  1. #1
    Boolit Man reloaders4you's Avatar
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    Help cleaning a used mold

    I just bought a used Lyman 358429 4 cavity mold. I sprayed some break cleaner on the mold to get rid of any oil and such. Then when I went to smoke the mold oil or lube or something started to appear. What other methods can I use to clean the mold completely. Thanks for the info in advance and HAPPY THANKSGIVING

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    Boolit Buddy

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    I get my molds hot and put it in a metal container of Kroil. Let it sit a couple days, clean off the flats with denatured alcohol. Then I get it hot, and cast until I get good boolits. Treat the sprue with bullplate, and cast away. I store my molds in Kroil as I have very high humidity issues. My molds are clean, rust free, and drop well.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    What were you smoking it with? Some things put off oils like candles for one. I'd just try usuing it. You don't need to smoke an iron mould as much as a Lee aluminum and I quit smoking my moulds years ago anyway.
    Aim small, miss small!

  4. #4
    Boolit Man reloaders4you's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mooman76 View Post
    What were you smoking it with?
    Strike anywhere matches

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  5. #5
    Boolit Man reloaders4you's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by plumber View Post
    I get my molds hot and put it in a metal container of Kroil.
    What is Kroil?

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    Boolit Buddy

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    Kroil is a lube/solvent like WD40 but way better. No shooter should be without. I use I for everything from cleaning my molds, guns, penetrating oil, ect.
    www.kanolabs.com

    I have found smoking causes more problems than it fixed.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    With my molds, especially Lee, I let them soak for at least two days in mineral spirits.
    Just letting them soak like that really gets stuff off it. I get aluminum flakes after two days.
    The mineral spirits does not degrade the metal, the machineing process planishes the flakes down. The mineral spirits dissolves the oil bond from machineing. Same with steel molds.
    Let them soak, then use them.

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    In Remembrance - Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist

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    Another point I would like to point out all brake cleaner are not the same or is carb cleaners the good ones evaporated fast and are very flamable. The knock offs dont clean as good if its a mould or carb or brakes. Oh by the way the best think to clean the old brake drums with is a water hose unless you have a wheel cyl leak. It will clean the dust right off and removes dirt and crud making the job alot cleaner. I also use Kroil on my moulds and dont clean them before casting just get them hot boolits come out fine if you dont beleive me take a mould that is cast fine and spray it with some Kroil it will smoke but will not wrinkle boolits sometimes helps them drop better.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy

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    I use a toothbrush. First I scrub new and used moulds with gasoline. Then I switch to hot soapy water. After that I dry them quickly over a burner on the stove.

    Sometimes there's still a little residue. It burns off after the first 5-10 bullets are cast.

  10. #10
    Boolit Man reloaders4you's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freischütz View Post
    After that I dry them quickly over a burner on the stove.
    What about blowing them dry with compressed air?
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    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by reloaders4you View Post
    What about blowing them dry with compressed air?
    That will get the bulk off but heating the mold helps get all of the solvents out of the pores
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    guess you havent been around on the site Kroil is the best thing you can use . Most NAPA's have it or order direct at above link
    you dont clean it off just wipe the wet off and cast look at some stickys

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freischütz View Post
    I use a toothbrush. First I scrub new and used moulds with gasoline. Then I switch to hot soapy water. After that I dry them quickly over a burner on the stove.
    Sometimes there's still a little residue. It burns off after the first 5-10 bullets are cast.
    Same process only with Ed's Red.

    Quote Originally Posted by reloaders4you View Post
    What about blowing them dry with compressed air?
    Done that also. Used brake parts cleaner as well. Whatever is on hand.
    Cast as usual. It may take up to a dozen throws to start getting keeper boolits.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky P View Post
    Another point I would like to point out all brake cleaner are not the same or is carb cleaners the good ones evaporated fast and are very flamable. The knock offs dont clean as good if its a mould or carb or brakes. Oh by the way the best think to clean the old brake drums with is a water hose unless you have a wheel cyl leak. It will clean the dust right off and removes dirt and crud making the job alot cleaner. I also use Kroil on my moulds and dont clean them before casting just get them hot boolits come out fine if you dont beleive me take a mould that is cast fine and spray it with some Kroil it will smoke but will not wrinkle boolits sometimes helps them drop better.
    I would like to point out that most brands of brake cleaner are non-flammable. Even the Chlorinated ones (which you should never spray on anything hot). Also DOT 3 brake fluid is a polyglycol and as such is completely water-soluble. the only time to use anything other than soap and water on brakes is in the case of oil/grease contamination. Also, most carburetor cleaners are NO GOOD for cleaning moulds because they contain a petroleum lubricant that is left behind when the solvent evaporates. this keeps carb linkages moving freely and reduces wear, and causes wrinkly boolits.

    On topic, smoking ANY mould will cause more problems than it will fix. You can discover this on your own quite easily. If you just use brake cleaner and a stiff nylon toothbrush and cast from a squeaky-clean mould and Bullplate on the sprueplate you should be fine. I think soaking in Kroil is a good idea, never needed to try it.

    Gear

  15. #15
    Boolit Man reloaders4you's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post

    If you just use brake cleaner and a stiff nylon toothbrush and cast from a squeaky-clean mould and Bullplate on the sprueplate you should be fine.

    Gear
    WHAT IS BULLPLATE?

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    Boolit Grand Master


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    Go to the bottom of this page and click on BULLSHOP. No caster should EVER be without at least 2 bottles of this wonder lubricant.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master in Heavens Range.
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    I find that after using the solvents, if there are rough spots, a #2 lead pencil will clean things up and leave a thin film of graphite that is a great boolit release.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    My favorite way to clean them is with what is at hand. I just use the largest bronze brush I've got and bore solvent. Scrub the heck out of it, dry, then dowse with rubbing alcohol to remove the solvent. This is on cast iron molds, I don't own aluminum ones.
    If you find that Hoppes or similar solvents are eating the wire cores on the brushes, just pour rubbing alcohol over them, stops that too.

    Ron
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