Help 44man. What's your secret?

[Squint]

44man,

In another thread you said "Ruger triggers are SO easy to make creep free and down to 2#, takes longer to take the gun apart then to fix the trigger."

I have sweetened up a few Ruger triggers but it has always been tedious and time consuming. I'd sure appreciate learning an easier way to do it.

Rather than hijack the other thread, I thought I'd start a bew one and see if you would care to enlighten us.

Of course tips from anyone else would be welcome as well.

Thanks,
Squint

[dubber123]

Well, till Jim weighs in, I'll tell you what I do. Basically you remove material off the hammer sear notch. ( reducing contact area), and polishing all surfaces lightly. Ruger normally makes this notch "generous". The trigger return spring is way over powered. I like to bend the legs for reduced power, rather than replace it, or leave a leg off.

Once you get the hang of it, it really is easy. Out of the 8-10 my brother and I have done, all were set to 2.5#, except 1, which was requested to be lighter. That one was set at 1.75#. All used full power main springs, and were completely creep free.

[44man]

I can't say it any better then Dubber.
I have done so many that I can put the hammer on my grinder and take off the right amount by eye before I polish the surfaces. My grinder is a slow one with the white, fine wheel for sharpening tools.
I remove near half the sear surface. Then I use a triangular ceramic stone to polish. DO NOT CHANGE ANY ANGLES.
Then break the sharp edge on the sear with the stone, don't leave it sharp.
The trigger spring is re-bent or a leg dropped off the pin depending on how it feels. You can also buy a new spring that is lighter.
I change the mainsprings on my guns to a Wolfe variable OVER POWER spring. I step up about 3# on the average.
Be aware that making the trigger too light so it kicks your finger forward will drop the transfer bar so 2# is about as light as you can go. For a few of mine I made new transfer bars by hand that are higher so I can get 1-1/2#. It takes a lot of fitting to get it right and good tool steel must be used. Then hardened and tempered.
Making them with a hacksaw and files is not something I recommend!
Brownell's now sells a new one but I do not know if it is higher and it is very expensive.
Anyway, I got tired of trying to stone the hammer down. You really need a jig for it and a lot of time. That metal is hard to stone.
For a COLT,clone or 3 screw Ruger, NEVER remove metal from the hammer. I solder shim stock to the hammer to move the trigger forward. It is easy to file the brass shim to get the pull nice. If you go too far, just solder a new piece on.
A copper iron must be used so nothing gets too hot along with a low temp solder.
I have to wonder what would happen if a drop of JB Weld or bedding compound is put on the hammer to move the trigger forward??? Easy to file to get the sear surface wanted. Would it stay there?
Also thought about drilling and tapping for a tiny setscrew but don't know if it is possible. Someday I will find a scrap hammer to play with.
OH yeah, put a good lube on the sear surfaces when you put the gun together. I like Action Lube. A moly grease.

[dubber123]

A better description, and some good pointers there. I have never done a 3 screw, and wasn't aware they were different. All mine have been "New" models. I will try the extra power main springs myself, as the Rugers could benefit from a faster lock time.

[Squint]

Dubber and 44man, thanks for the replies ..and so quick too.

I do basically the same things to lighten mine but, using only hand tools and not having done so many, it takes me a lot longer. I am always nervous that I am taking away too much engagement so reassemble the gun and try it out a few times along the way.

One difference though is that I have always left the edge of the hammer sear sharp, thinking it will be crisper. You say you break the edge. I'll have to try that.

The extra power mainspring sounds worthwhile for speeding up the lock time. That'll go on my list of future improvements.

Since grinding on my trigger notch makes me nervous (hard to put it back if you go too far), I too have tried to think of ways to build up the hammer to move the trigger forward instead. I have done one with the "drop of JB Weld" and, so far, it has worked fine. I figure if it comes loose or something the gun will probably still work. Time will tell.

Thanks again, all good stuff.

Squint