Inline FabricationSnyders JerkyTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2
RepackboxWidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading Everything
Lee Precision Load Data
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Smithy 3 in 1 machines

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    816

    Smithy 3 in 1 machines

    Does anyone have any experience with the Smithy 3 in 1 milling, drilling and lathe machines? I am considering purchasing one for personal gunsmithing and home shop use. I haven't deceided on a Midas or Granite series. I don't want to buy something that I would regret later. Does anyone have any personal experiences on the quality of the machines and customer service? I sure would like to know.

  2. #2
    Banned

    PatMarlin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    6,341
    Welcome to cast boolit heaven GBertolet! ..

    Not knocking the machine, but I've read many times guys who regret getting a 3 in 1 after they get into machining. Myself included because of the limit of use and capability. After using a real lathe and mill, my 3in1 (not a smithy) has become an emergency boat anchor, that I'm leaving in my shop trailer. Space would be a consideration and a plus for one. I'm sure more guys will add some opinions for you soon.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy


    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, OH
    Posts
    427
    Agree with Pat. If you want to go that route, get a Grizzly. Or better yet just get a regular mill and lathe. I have their 9" lathe and their small mill (not the mini mill) both are capable of exceptional accuracy.

    Pete
    Zbench

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Mountain Home, ID
    Posts
    24
    Try and find both a mill and a lathe first. Seperate machines are always better. However, we take a Smithy with us when we deploy. They are better than trying to use nothing...

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    415
    I have used a Smithy. I tried to turn a mandrel and it was a frustrating exercise. It would not make a straight cut for any distance. The feed screws are inconsistent. Sometimes the cross slide doesn't move and then it jumps double the distance. The machine I used is lightly used and it may just need disassembling and cleaning up but I certainly wouldn't pay good money for one.

    I also cut threads on the machine and I don't recall it having a half nut. You have to leave the feed in gear to chase threads. When you get to the end of the threads you back the tool out and run the machine in reverse to get back to the beginning of the threads. The other problem is it is to small for a lot of jobs. On the other hand it is better than a hacksaw and a file and maybe the one I used was a lemon and not a typical machine. If I had limited space and found a decent used one I might buy it but I would have to get it really cheap.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bloomfield, Nebraska
    Posts
    6,072
    The Smithy is the BEST of the 3 in 1's. Their service is top notch and they are a big help to the starting machinist, BUT, even in a home shop unless you are patient and have lots of time a 3-1 is a PITA. No matter what you need to do the machine is set up for something else. You need the lathe it's up as a mill and vica versa. You need a table extension to mill most smaller stuff and because of the lathe you need creative set ups. You will be much better off to go to say Grizzly and get a small 9x20 lathe and a small mill. The price will only be a hundred bucks or so more and you will be happier in the long run.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    lathesmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Springfield, Missouri
    Posts
    1,373
    The ONLY reason anyone should consider a 3-n-1 rather than separate machines is severe space constraints--basically, you have no choice because of space limitations. Most people have more space available than this, and if so you are MUCH better off with separate machines.
    lathesmith

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    NW Washington, just N. of Seattle
    Posts
    296
    All 3in1's have a common flaw. They are too damn springy. The tool holder stands on a tower and is floppy. Things are simply too far away from each other.

    If .010" is accurate enough, it may do. It is analagous to other do it all tools, in that it will do some of it OK, but it won't do any of it well.

    The "springy" thing is endemic to the tool style and nothing short of the skilled application of massive amounts of high explosives will sort it out.

    Gerry N.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    lathesmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Springfield, Missouri
    Posts
    1,373
    I might add if 98 per cent of your work is on a lathe, you might be OK with one of these. But using a lathe's cross slide as a milling table is always a second-rate compromise that even the smallest of milling machines can easily beat.
    lathesmith

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub Morrison Machine Shop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Posts
    36
    I agree with everyone, like I said before "If you want a mill and a lathe, get a mill and a lathe."
    "In the field I will be a sportsman in word and deed, observing all game laws and regulations and avoiding shots that may cripple rather than kill instantly."

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Mount Royal NJ
    Posts
    112
    I agree to get separate units if at all possible.
    I have 2 lathes(12X36 and a 7X12) and a bridgport clone mill. Absoulutely love them for gun work. But they did take a bit of work to get them working 'just right'

    My Brother bought a smithy 3 in one a few years back. He worked for GE as in machine maintenance for machines that make nuclear reactor parts. After he got the machine, he tried to get it to hold tolerance, but even he could not. He even hand scraped the ways ( a lot of work) but it was too springy to hold except for very light cuts. Ended up buying separate units.

    It will work, but it will take a long time if you want a close tolerance part . If you have lots of time to machine, and take light cuts, accuracy is possible, but repeatability is a problem until the ways are straightened out and feedscrews are replaced (a problem with a lot of machines, cheap or expensive)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check