Paper patch bug has bit a few question

[drumgool]

So I have been reading allot of post on paper patching ,Excited to try learn somthing new.
I am goin to load some 30-30 pp Boolits this coming week hopfully.
My mold is a 311041 FN GC ,I have figured out my paper lenth the width I unsure about . I bought a $3.00 cigarette roller and have been practicing rolling the paper
on the bullet.
If I leave the gas check on the boolit do I fold the paper over the check or cut of even , or short of the check?
I was planning on loading some with and some without checks any advantages or disavantages eathier way.
Sizing dies should be here Monday or Tuesday can't wait....

[leftiye]

I'd fold the paper or twist it, then trim it after it dries. Leave some under the base of the boolit in either case. Same on the nose, wrapit beyond the beginning of the ogive (so it will enter the rifling without folding up). Sulg yer barrel! Make your boolits a thou. or two bigger than bore diameter. I think a 7mm mold drilled out to .302 should be the cat's meow for .30 cal. Them wrap, lube a little, and size. to groove diameter plus a thou. or two.

[beemer]

I don't use a gas check, shoots just as well without it. The gas check shank on the boolit lets the wrap taper to make seating easier. I just twist a tail and clip off when dry.

beemer

[docone31]

Forget the check with paper. If they have checks and you patch, just twist a tail and trim when dry.
I think, without a gas check, the paper acts like a gasket. It gets mashed into the check land and seals the bore.
I have fired them both ways, and without is definately easier.

[303Guy]

I'm trying the 'without' g/c. The paper shrinks onto the rebate and hold fast. With my 22 boolits, (RCBS), I have to start the patch just over the first drive band otherwise the boolit seats too deep in the case. But then I am using the wrong thickness paper - been sick so unable to locate the right stuff.

I am yet to shoot a group. Being sick sucks!

On the other hand, I have been having fun trying out different stuff. What I find is that each boolit becomes a work of art. I am going to have fun shooting my creations! (And finding the right 'formula').

Oh, drumgool, Larry gave me a tip on loading for the 30-30 (I don't have one) and that is that using a case full of H4350 produces good accuracy and moderate velocity.

[runfiverun]

the 30-30 will shoot a plain old cast boolit as fast as a jacketed why bother.
if you are gonna try the jacketed why not in a 0-6 or 308 where you can use the velocity.

[drumgool]

Well got a few wraped just for practice They look pretty dang good ( at least to me). Can't wait to get my sizing dies in
Thanks for the reply's This is the best site ever created. I have had more fun the last few months trying the stuff I have learned on this site it never gets dull around here.

[6.5 mike]

drumgool, welcome to the nut house.
As was said you don't need a g/c with paper. I'm new to this also so still a learning prosses for me. I have wrapped over g/c's & fold the tails under. It helps to stand them base down in something like a 9m/m tray for 30 cal. I also put something flat on the top of the boolits with some weight on it, keeps the wraps flat on the bottom.
Paper patch really shines when you get an odd bore size. Lets you match the boolit to bore. I have a 7m/m with a .290 bore, my mold drops at .2865, two wraps of meade tracing paper brings it to .291. See what I mean. Have fun.

[rhead]

the 30-30 will shoot a plain old cast boolit as fast as a jacketed why bother.
if you are gonna try the jacketed why not in a 0-6 or 308 where you can use the velocity.

It lets you use pure lead at factory velocities. You get down range bullet preformance like nosler calims they give.

For targets only I agree don't bother unless chamber or bore conditions exist that paper will correct. I have never encountered that in a 30 30 but they can exist.