To remove lanolin based case lube, you probably need a stronger alcohol. 90% alcohol should do it. Most grocery stores sell 60-70% alcohol, with a higher water content. A pharmacy should have it.
To remove lanolin based case lube, you probably need a stronger alcohol. 90% alcohol should do it. Most grocery stores sell 60-70% alcohol, with a higher water content. A pharmacy should have it.
I buy 99% isopropyl acolhol from Livestock supply outlets. I add some to my diesel engine fuel supply in the winter. At auto and truck parts supply outlets it is sold in small bottles as a fuel treatment.
I use the product for disinfecting animal working tools and some goes to fuel treatment.
Three44s
Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207
“There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”
GONRA sez don't forget the SPARK HAZARD for gasoline in plain sheet steel vesssls.
(Tin plated steel is OK.)
.
The stuff we have at the local Home Depot is labeled "MEK Substitute". It smells exactly like MEK and works the same. MEK can still be bought from the industrial supply places (like https://dallasgrp.com/products-applications/) but for whatever reason it's not sold in retail locations any more.
I bought some automatic dishwasher detergent. I'm going to boil the cases in my oil-changing pan over the propane cooker.
Tried alcohol. It got some of the lube off but not the waxy stuff.
I'll try gas if the D-W boil doesn't work.
Better than dishwasher powder, buy a box of TriSodium Phosphate from the paint section of the hardware store. TSP used to be the main ingredient in dishwasher and laundry powders until about 40 years ago, when some greenies in Washington (state) convinced the EPA that it was a nationwide pollution hazard. The EPA ban is why both detergents don't works as well anymore. Add some to the laundry, or the dishwasher, and see for yourself.
Cognitive Dissident
I was going to suggest using a rag dampened with mineral spirits and manually wiping down each case then I noticed how many you had to do and how much somebody said MS costs these days.
The main time I had to use it was after sizing (to remove the waxy sizing lube I used to use) and when my cases got contaminated with the relatively soft bullet lube I used. A 1-2 oz bottle in my range box with a piece of an old T shirt and I was good to go.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
Be sure you get "real" TSP. I got some what turned out to be a substitute, it won't clean **** off shinola
Steve,
Life Member NRA
Colorado Rifle Club member
Rocky Mtn Gun Owners member
NAGR member
3M wax and grease cleaner would probably work, if you can find it. They usually have it in Auto Body supply stores. It’s made for cleaning car waxes off vehicles when body shops are prepping them. Or their adhesive remover works about the same too, last time I got it was on Amazon.
I have a similar situation, nickel plated cases that were in house fire and plastic bags melted on the cases along with black smoke.
Was told, manufacturer, to use baby oil at about 300 degrees and bag plastic would melt and come off.
Have not tried this solution, don't like heating things like that.
Have had good luck using hydralic brake fluid as solvent and intend to try it on the cases.
Its to-it just hasn't come up yet!
I may try a hand full tomorrow and see if the brake fluid removes anything.
thanks
It took gasoline.
Then I cleaned them with dish washer soap.
I will leave the gas in an open can and let it evaporate.
I think whatever was on there was very old.
Thanks for the help.
Last edited by Charlie Horse; 09-04-2023 at 06:22 PM.
Next time jus load and shoot them, they will likely come out clean enough to load again!
Charcoal lighter fluid on a towel works well for me.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
I tried some of the wax case lube. It left a soft gooey stuff on the cases after they were fire, Hoppe's #9 worked to take it off! Went back to grease to lube the cases!
put em in a strainer and dip them in a pot of acetone. acetone has removed all kinds of coatings, grease and grime that ive ever tried it on. if it is wax styrene will probably work. if acetone won't remove it I have no idea. I'm no chemist but if you have any way of finding out what exactly is on them there might be any easy answer of what will clean them.
Gasoline is the most dangerous way, glad there was no explosion from the vapors. Lot's of people have paid a serious price cleaning parts with gas. All it takes is a pilot light or a lit cigarette nearby or a static spark......next time start low and safe.
I'd start with Googone professional with an alcohol rinse and wipe down. Stronger would be mineral spirits with the same wipe down. Stronger still, lacquer thinner. But Googone Pro will usually be enough with just wax. Lemishine dishsoap mixed, work for wax, carbon and other crud but require some agitation.
As you were doing a lot, and just a soak and a rinse would be an advantage, then a soak in mineral spirits usually works as good a gasoline, but not explosive like gas....or lacquer thinner which IMO is a faster solvent than either of the other two, and still not as explosive as gas... both rinse well in water with a squirt of Dawn, then another rinse with just water.
Last edited by GWS; 09-07-2023 at 11:59 PM.
woolite
Originally Posted by Theodore Roosevelt
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |