Friend has a couple 1885's that need new coil springs. He purchased a couple (reproduction) of them and found it is nearly impossible to install.
Any hints or secrets anyone can share?
Thanks for any help given!!
Friend has a couple 1885's that need new coil springs. He purchased a couple (reproduction) of them and found it is nearly impossible to install.
Any hints or secrets anyone can share?
Thanks for any help given!!
Last edited by buggybuilder; 07-31-2023 at 08:56 PM.
I got my replacement coil spring from DZ Arms.
Installation is detailed in Campbell’s book on the Winchester Single Shot.
You need to grind or file a half-circle groove in a cheap screwdriver, of a size to fit the spring wire diameter.
Pop the coil spring over the hammer so that the stirrup loop is behind the hammer while the two prongs on the ends are at 5-6 o’clock on the legs of the breech block, and press against them.
Slip the hammer/mainspring assembly between the legs of the block and tap in the split pin so the split end faces right.
Put the block in a padded vise so the rear bottom faces you. Using the notched screwdriver, push one of the arms of the spring up and inside the corresponding block leg until the prong snaps into the locating hole.
Do the same with the second arm. This will require more force, and a good fit of blade notch to spring wire helps. Ease the spring prong up the inside leg of the block by pushing in and up. If you break one of the prongs, the whole spring is useless.
I was surprised at how straightforward the installation was; but my frame of reference was 40 years ago, when the only tools I had for a Low Wall coil-spring installation were pliers, perspiration, persistence and profanity. Mr. Campbell’s two volumes on the Winchester SS are of immense value to anyone who wants to know or do anything with them.
^^^ This ^^^ it’s amazing what you can do with just a few tools for the Winchester ‘walls, but some, like this spring installation tool, are just about essential! Also, you must get the proper spring… you don’t get a whole lot of wiggle room in the way you get it to fit and function.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
When I bought my 1885 Uberti replica, it would misfire 50% of the time (somehow the seller forgot to mention it)
I put a bend on the coil spring to increase tension, and the misfires were reduced to about on in ten.
Then I switched to LP primers instead of LR, and the misfires were completely gone.
Just for the heck of it, I tried comparing the two primer types without powder and boolit to see the difference in the dents.
The LR (CCI) primer is on the left. I'm surprised it would actually fire!
Since I'm only working with low pressure loads, I'll stick with the LP primers.
Cap'n Morgan
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |