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Thread: Does RCBS sell just the seater die individually?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Does RCBS sell just the seater die individually?

    Wondering whether RCBS sells the seater dies singly, for when we use two or more bullets (and different depths) on a given caliber? Don't want to have to reset the seater die each time I load for the different bullets.
    -Paul

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy DCB's Avatar
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    Yeh, They sell a bunch of different seater dies and plugs for different bullets.

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    Boolit Buddy engineer401's Avatar
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    I’ve purchased several RCBS seater dies for the reasons you state above. Most of them came from Midway. You can also purchase seater dies from other manufacturers. There are a lot of choices.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    OK, thanks guys. I'm not used to working with bolt-action bullets with cannelures - something like the Interlock in .338 WM, can I just use the LFC for the crimp and just use the RCBS seater to seat the bullet, like I do with my 45-70 w/ crimp groove? I imagine a very light crimp only?
    -Paul

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy DCB's Avatar
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    Yes if the crimp die is in 338"

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    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Thanks.
    -Paul

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    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    If you already have the seating die make up dummy rounds. Makes setting the die a breeze.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    A seater die with micrometer adjustment is another option.

    Three44s
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    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

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    Boolit Master


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    As stated, the easiest way is just make up a "master" cartridge without powder or primer and use it to adjust for reloading. I have 2 cartridges for my rifle loads to adjust the dies. One is for seating the bullet and the other is for crimping (if I crimp a load). Works for me, james

  10. #10
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNsailorman View Post
    As stated, the easiest way is just make up a "master" cartridge without powder or primer and use it to adjust for reloading. I have 2 cartridges for my rifle loads to adjust the dies. One is for seating the bullet and the other is for crimping (if I crimp a load). Works for me, james
    Thanks James. I sort of do that, when I've found the right setup, but as stupid as it sounds more to record the stats for future reference to use it itself to adjust dies, etc. Duh.

    Thanks guys. Wasn't able to source the RCBS seater by itself in .338 WM so picked up the Hornady. Three444's, that micrometer stem seems interesting.
    -Paul

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Why would you crimp any jacketed bullet for use in a bolt action rifle. I have never found a need to crimp for bolt actions. Accuracy was always better with uncrimped ammo and I didnt have to trim every time to make sure I had uniform crimps.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BK7saum View Post
    Why would you crimp any jacketed bullet for use in a bolt action rifle. I have never found a need to crimp for bolt actions. Accuracy was always better with uncrimped ammo and I didnt have to trim every time to make sure I had uniform crimps.
    Seems weird to me too, but with the cannelures I'd thought it was needed, so the round won't catch, for one. No?

    Edit: Actually, I'd seen this from Hornady: "CANNELURE - Provides accurate and consistent crimping and also works with InterLock® ring to ensure the core and jacket remain locked during expansion."
    -Paul

  13. #13
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BK7saum View Post
    Why would you crimp any jacketed bullet for use in a bolt action rifle. I have never found a need to crimp for bolt actions. Accuracy was always better with uncrimped ammo and I didnt have to trim every time to make sure I had uniform crimps.
    Normally, I agree. However there is one reason I might be interested in a light crimp......when I use an "M" die to prepare a neck for bullet drops from a collator to a bullet feed die in the station just before the seater on a progressive. (that done to prevent the "tilt" of bullets or boolets, on the progressive merry-go-round.) Of course, I would never do that on calibers I only load on a single stage or for that matter, a press with 5 or fewer stations. Being spoiled with 7 stations, and again recently with 6 stations so I can do that. In such a case the type of bolt makes no difference to me.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Every seating die can have the equivalent to a micrometer seating stem. Just use your calipers to measure the length of the die, top to bottom, for each bullet you use. Record the die measurements for each bullet on a slip of paper and put it in the die box. Added benefit, takes up a lot less space than a bunch of dummy cartridges. It only takes seconds to accurately set the die for whatever bullet you are using.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quack1 View Post
    Every seating die can have the equivalent to a micrometer seating stem. Just use your calipers to measure the length of the die, top to bottom, for each bullet you use. Record the die measurements for each bullet on a slip of paper and put it in the die box. Added benefit, takes up a lot less space than a bunch of dummy cartridges. It only takes seconds to accurately set the die for whatever bullet you are using.
    Sorry, not following you. I did think to measure the seater stem depth (by measuring from the top of the body to the top of the stem), but given that a small rotation of the stem can result in substantial differences as we're talking in 0.001's, abandoned the idea.
    -Paul

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntinlever View Post
    Sorry, not following you. I did think to measure the seater stem depth (by measuring from the top of the body to the top of the stem), but given that a small rotation of the stem can result in substantial differences as we're talking in 0.001's, abandoned the idea.
    ???

    The top and bottom of the seating stem move the same when the stem is adjusted, they are one piece. A .001" movement on the seating portion of the stem will result in .001" movement at the top.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenton View Post
    ???

    The top and bottom of the seating stem move the same when the stem is adjusted, they are one piece. A .001" movement on the seating portion of the stem will result in .001" movement at the top.
    Use calipers to measure the length of the entire die, seating stem and die body together. You could measure from the top of the body to the top of the stem, but due to the construction of some makes of dies, it's easier and more accurate to measure the whole die.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenton View Post
    ???

    The top and bottom of the seating stem move the same when the stem is adjusted, they are one piece. A .001" movement on the seating portion of the stem will result in .001" movement at the top.
    Yes, but you don't see how far down the body the stem is going to seat to a certain depth, right? You only see how far by the change in distance from the top of the body to top of the stem? I must be missing something. I actually like doing a dummy round anyway, keep it on the shelf for easy reference.
    -Paul

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check