45 ACP bullets

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Range scrap can vary. I use the range scrap I harvest for 38 spl and 45acp, as it's fairly soft. Once in a while I get a batch of range scrap that is harder, almost like COWW...then I use that for everything I use COWW for, like 357 and 41m and standard cast velocity Rifle rounds.

[rintinglen]

I have been using range lead and COWW for years, it comes out to around 11BHN, and I use Hi-Tek coating with my hand cast 200 gr SWC H&G 68 type bullets loaded to 825 to 850 fps. Very accurate and no leading.

My experience as well, save that I tumble lube with either BLL or 45/45/10.

[Baltimoreed]

Wheel weights and range lead is all I’ve ever used for my casting. I use it in .45 cas and ipsc loads. When I cast HB 265 gr boolits for my Webleys I add some pure lead to soften them up a little.

[sledgehammer001]

I shoot the Lyman 452374 cast of WW, sized to 0.452", lubed with 45-45-10, over 540 powder. They run about 850-875 fps, no leading, accurate.

[mdi]

It'll work just fine, especially if there is some cast boolits in there.
If you don't get a good fill out, raise the temp a little.
If that doesn't work, throw in some wheel weights for the Tin in them.

If you don't powder coat, even the junkiest of lubes will work going that slow too.
I use the wife's discarded fu-fu candles and soften it some with high temp disc brake grease for .38 & .45 ACP.

I agree and BTDT for a few years. The 225 gr. Lyman feeds well in all my 45 ACP guns and is pretty accurate too. I have used my "Speed Green" and maybe a half dozen other lubes, including 45-45-10 on range lead with very little (no) leading...

[44Blam]

I am shooting the NOE 454-237-RN-AC on top of logshot and it was one of the easiest new boolit/load combo I've put together.
I've got a Sig 1911 and I put the boolit where I thought it should go and it chambered just fine - then my load dev brought me up to about 880 fps. That particular load had an ES of like 12 fps over the 5 rounds I tested with the chrony.

[charlie b]

Never used range scrap before, always COWW for pistols or Lyman #2 for rifles.

The Lee 200SWC is my favorite bullet for the .45. The 230TC wasn't bad either, I just like SWC's in pistols. Why Lee? Cause they were cheap and they worked for me. I powder coat everything these days.

[PhatForrest]

Lee 200 swc runs great in my 1911. For general 45'ing, the 230s will feed and cycle in Sigs too, which the 200 won't.

[josper]

one of my shooting buddies gave me some of those H&G 68's to try they were loaded with 3.5 grs of bullseye .they won't cycle my RIA 1911. I have ordered a mold from Accurate molds a clone of that #68 . when I get it I will try the 5gr of Bullseye and see how that goes.

[pworley1]

As most others have said. They should work just fine as long as they are the correct size.

[lotech]

one of my shooting buddies gave me some of those H&G 68's to try they were loaded with 3.5 grs of bullseye .they won't cycle my RIA 1911. I have ordered a mold from Accurate molds a clone of that #68 . when I get it I will try the 5gr of Bullseye and see how that goes.

I'm not familiar with an RIA 1911, but all my Colts do well with that 3.5 Bullseye load and a SAECO #069 (H&G #68 copy). I use the standard recoil spring, not a light one. Load is very accurate and if you'll adjust it slightly, 3.6, 3.7, or maybe 3.8 grs., one of those should work fine. 5 grs. Bullseye behind the same bullet is an excellent load, chronographing about 850-875 fps Not quite as accurate as the target load, but pretty close and 200 fps faster. Good luck

[PULSARNC]

wheelweight range scrap ,whatever i have on hand and powder coated. All my molds are Lee . I have both the 228 grain round nose and a 2oo grain flat nose. Both work well in my Taurus 1911 and before that in my Norinco

[243winxb]

Always add - 2" of Rotometals bar goes in my Lee 10 lb pot with scrap or WW. Casting Lyman 200 gr lswc BB. 3.8 Bullseye.

[Martin Luber]

What???? No wadcutters?

[Larry Gibson]

As mentioned, the alloy composition of "range lead" can vary greatly. Try it with a casting alloy temp of 715 - 725 degrees. If fill out is good, then it's fine. If fill out isn't as it should be, then add about 2% tin in the form of pure tin, tin/lead solder or pewter.

Adding COWWs will not add enough tin as they run .5% or less tin. Adding linotype can add tin but also a lot more antimony. If your range lead has a lot of hard cast commercial bullet alloy in it, then it is already antimony rich. Adding more will only exacerbate the imbalance of antimony to tin.

I've used a lot of "range lead" alloy over the years taken from numerous different ranges. I always just add 2% tin to any range lead and have always cast excellent bullets with that alloy, especially for use in pistol/handgun cartridges.

[lotech]

As mentioned, the alloy composition of "range lead" can vary greatly. Try it with a casting alloy temp of 715 - 725 degrees. If fill out is good, then it's fine. If fill out isn't as it should be, then add about 2% tin in the form of pure tin, tin/lead solder or pewter.

Adding COWWs will not add enough tin as they run .5% or less tin. Adding linotype can add tin but also a lot more antimony. If your range lead has a lot of hard cast commercial bullet alloy in it, then it is already antimony rich. Adding more will only exacerbate the imbalance of antimony to tin.

I've used a lot of "range lead" alloy over the years taken from numerous different ranges. I always just add 2% tin to any range lead and have always cast excellent bullets with that alloy, especially for use in pistol/handgun cartridges.

I've found most of the range lead from one gun club pistol range I've picked up in the last few years, a mixture of cast and jacketed handgun bullets, though about 90% cast, has pretty consistently averaged 14 BHN. I haven't added tin for several years.

[Larry Gibson]

I've found most of the range lead from one gun club pistol range I've picked up in the last few years, a mixture of cast and jacketed handgun bullets, though about 90% cast, has pretty consistently averaged 14 BHN. I haven't added tin for several years.

That's a good alloy to begin with

[pcmacd]

All the old timers I knew (who were about the age I am now) used straight up range salvage or wheel weights to make H&G 68 or 130 45 acp bullets. Straight range salvage will tarnish, but who cares? Wheel weights will, but take longer.

I used to have an excellent source for foundry type which is 15% lead and 23% antimony - Arthur Greene in Beverly Hills, and, while he is long gone, I still have over 100# left. I usually add 2% lead which includes 3% antimony via foundry type to my range salvage. The bullets flow nicely, are a bit harder, and do not tarnish, at least not over ten years.

~~~~~
Years ago when I was learning to program Visual Basic I wrote a program, "ALLOY" that will compute proportions of alloying metals in a lead mix, using equations I learned from Arthur Greene. It works rather well.



Find it here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...usp=share_link

Share the link, give away copies, but you may not sell it.

...

[GooseGestapo]

Re: range scrap...
It shot good once! It’ll shoot good again!

My favorite source of tin/antimony is 95/5 lead free solder.

I use mostly WW, but I’m starting to run low. 2-5gal buckets full. When that’s gone, I’ll get lead from RMR. His price includes shipping on a 64lb flat rate box. I still have a 5-gal bucket of Linotype too! By past consumption, a life time supply...

[BJung]

I separate my range scrap. Jacketed core lead is used for my target loads. The softest of random lead is used for my 45-230RN and hardest of random lead cast for 40S&W. Anything in between I cast using 9-122 TC bullets with. Then there are the lead flakes with a lot of slag. I give that to my brother to make fishing sinkers. My 45-230 RN Lee is loaded with 5.0gr BE with an OAL = 1.270" which just barely fits in the magazine.