Picked up a Security Six off Gunbroker.
Everything’s clean & tight, but this forcing cone! It looks like Bubba reamed it with Lord-knows-what. It’s the longest, roughest I’ve ever seen:
Picked up a Security Six off Gunbroker.
Everything’s clean & tight, but this forcing cone! It looks like Bubba reamed it with Lord-knows-what. It’s the longest, roughest I’ve ever seen:
Doing it right requires setting the barrel back a thread and refitting.
Reaming in its present condition with a common forcing cone reamer will probably enlarge the major diameter of the forcing cone too much.
If you don't have the forcing cone min./max. gage from Brownell's, or .375" and .380" zz minus gage pins, try a fired .38 Special or .357 case in the forcing cone entrance. If it enters, cone diameter is already too large. If a fired case does not enter, then try an unfired factory round. If the crimped case mouth enters, but stops firmly as the mouth reaches full diameter behind the crimp, it is OK. Then you might try reaming using a shallower angle reamer which removes the circumferential tool marks, but does do without increasing the base diameter of the cone.
Attachment 295218
Last edited by Outpost75; 01-25-2022 at 01:17 PM.
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I’d try firelapping first.
Yep, it may possibly benefit from being recut to the long lead, Taylor style, forcing cone, but I doubt it. More likely the barrel will have to be removed, the shoulder cut back 1 turn, the forcing cone recut and the barrel shortened to allow a cylinder gap of 4-6 thousandths.
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Firelapping = new barrel
how does it shoot?
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I've seen worse than that, I think firelapping is worth a try. I've never seen it cause any harm, and if you were going to have the barrel worked on anyway, why not?
Look at it this way, there are many used barrels on Ebay right now.
Update: got in touch with the seller and it’s going back.
Most factory cones on my Smiths are much deeper than those gages. I gave up on relying on those gages unless I set a barrel back. If the cone is deeper than the gage I do not worry about it and I cannot find any shooting difference. I have an extensive collection of revolvers and many factory cones swallow the gage.
Problem there is that if barrel extension protruding into the frame window has a small flat milled at 6:00 to clear the gas ring, the reduced section adjacent the flat, caused by yhe max-max forcing cone, is prone to cracking. Most common in .357, but also a well documented problem firing .38 +P with lighter bullets in which the bullet base clears the cylinder face before engaging the rifling in the excessively deep cone.
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Setting the barrel back will run into other problems. The barrel shroud for the ejector rod will need to be alter also. If it isn't shooting well I would contact Ruger and see what they will do.
When I worked for the company the Six line was being closed down. All tooling and gages were sold to Manhurin. Enough repair parts were planned to support Customer Service for 25 years. But THAT was in 1987 so those repair parts at the factory are long gone and Ruger no longer supports this model with factory service. Best bet is to try to find a barrel on GunBroker and have it professionally installed.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
I have a .45LC Bisley that looks as bad if not worse.
Thought I bought all kinds of problems - So I know exactly what you felt
and were going through - But!! in my case thought what the hell I'll work this
out or have my 5 shot canon built. Turns out she shoots lights out with 270grs
of FP over some HS6. It sits in my keeper cabinet now.
A while back I did a barrel on a pistol with a shroud. The threads are small enough not to allow for a liner but if the liner is big enough to thread then the barrel can be bored out big enough for the liner. In the one I was doing the customer wanted to have the barrel longer with a brake so the liner ended up like a hollow bolt with the head ported as a brake. The original shape of the outside of the barrel was not altered. This type of operation can also be done on the Ruger. Start with a new barrel blank and turn it down to thread diameter and thread it to fit the frame. Cut the forcing cone the way it should be. Bore the old barrel out for a close fit to the new barrel and install with Loctite. Not needed but you could make the new barrel a bit longer and put a nut on the end AKA Dan Wesson.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |