Looks pretty fine as it is!
Its been so long since I did anything to a 1911, I have no idea of what prices for parts or labor are these days.
The good thing is your dad already put a flat mainspring housing on it, so you shouldn't get hammer bite.
The hard part about making it match your other 1911 is there have been a lot of different beavertail grip safeties made, and contrary to popular belief, they don't all feel the same. Good luck finding one that matches your present one.
I'd get rid of the EGA on the grip panels; but then I'm a sailor, not a Marine.
Robert
DougGuy, you are probably the only one whom I have seen to mention anything about the Accu-rail rods in just about any post related to a 1911 or 1911A1. Bought a accurized Springfield Armory 1911A1 bunch of years ago and had the rods fitted to the frame. Slide feels like the rails are greased and no side play.Even got a spare set of rods. Lost count on how many rounds it has shot, but the slide is as tight as when I bought it. Happy New Year. Frank
Classy looking gun!
I like the look of the hammer and grip safety but some are prone to getting bitten and that’s not fun. The trigger just looks “off” from the rest of the gun.
Personally I’d find a trigger I liked and shoot it a while. If that didn’t suit me I’d take it to Novak’s shop for the guys there to massage.
Edit to add, I’d get a set of VZ Grips in Black Cherry for carry/shooting
https://vzgrips.com/products/vz-320-...911-grips.html
With the beaver tail grip safety metal has to be removed and the safety fitted which means either touch up bluing or a complete frame reblue and a new Commander type hammer fitted, (something to consider). You could get a ''drop in'' safety, but they leave an ugly gap. Through trial and error I found a straight main spring housing along with a short trigger suits me best, your hands and grip may be different, try some combinations and see what you like best.
Grips are pretty much whatever you like and feel comfortable with. I would stay away from any MIM, (injection molded) parts on it and go with forged and polished steel, maybe add an extended slide stop and a Briley barrel bushing. Ed Brown and Wilson Combat both offer MIM and forged steel parts, the price is about double for forged, (+/-) over MIM on average.
Liberalism is a cult divorced from reality.
The 1911 I got from my dad was also a project gun. I did work on it myself until I decided to use it for daily carry. Then I had a gunsmith go through it. New Barsto barrel and bushing (fitted), recoil spring, beavertail safety, hammer, sear, trigger, mainspring and new sights front and rear. Cost was around $400 about 15 yrs ago. Grips are a choice. I liked the Pachmeyers.
Shooting Star mags are my choice for the 1911. Cost is good and they have all been reliable for me. I used to use GI mags. Buy a bunch cheap and toss the ones that don't work.
FWIW, my son-in-law has the pistol now.
Shot it today and created a video review...
"Luck don't live out here. Wolves don't kill the unlucky deer; they kill the weak ones..." Jeremy Renner in Wind River
Really like the sights. I think I would change out the plastic trigger.
FWIW I have never seen anything in .45 acp that didn't like Lyman 452460's with 231.
Paper targets aren't your friends. They won't lie for you and they don't care if your feelings get hurt.
Congratulations. I think I'd leave it the way it is
Ain't nothing wrong with those groups at all. With basically a stock 1911A1, my goal is to keep all 7 or 8 rounds on a 6" paper saucer at 50yds. Most "as issued" WWII era GI pistols will do that.
My parkinsonism that controls walking and balance has made me unable to work in the shop. VOTE RED * PRAY OFTEN You are welcome to message me here or send email to xlordsguitars@gmail.com.
Interesting 1911, I'd find a good smith in your area if possible.
More often than not people that do their own work start with a $500 1911, buy $300 worth of aftermarket parts & end up with a $400 custom 1911.
Watching the video, it looks like that 1911 is springing.
Forrest, I'd sure be interested and appreciate learning what it is that you call springing? Just never heard of it before and like to learn is all.
I see most of the proposed upgrades as unnecessary and in some cases UGLY...but it's not my pistol, and you should do whatever makes you feel good--or can afford. If the grips are uncomfortable, that's a reasonable change. As for 'good' magazines, the owner of Cylinder and Slide once told me that in his experience Colt factory magazines were as good as any of the premium brands.
My understanding of Barbecue gun is, one of a kind gun that you only bring out to show it off! Plus, it belonged to your dad! Me personally I would not change anything.
You have one to shoot and one to admire and remember your Dad. The best of both worlds.
(My opinion and two dollars might get you a cup of coffee someplace!)
I always wanted one of those Yavapi sear jigs brownell's sells for putting the finishing touches on the sear. Had pretty good luck just free handing it on a hard stone over the years. The hammer hook is the hardest part to deal with.
Springing:
It's when the bbl bushing is forcing the bbl one direction and the bbl link is forcing the bbl in a different direction. This causes tension in the middle of the bbl creating a vibrating/springing effect. This makes it harder for the bbl to return to battery in the same place shot after shot along with the bbl heating up adding to the deflection.
Vertical stringing is the major side effect of springing. The op shot those targets @ close range (7yds). He's either a bad shot and does a lot of flinching/anticipating recoil (which I highly doubt!!!). Or that 1911 has springing issues.
Forrest r also interested in the fix or cure for this springing issue. Thanks
Take the slide off, put only the bushing and the barrel in the slide, and see if the barrel goes all the way into the lugs in the slide. If it goes without any bind, the gun is NOT SPRINGING.
You have to get a barrel into an obviously too tight of lockup before springing can occur.
There are a few reasons for vertical stringing, but barrel springing is almost non existent because it's almost impossible to lock a 1911 up tight enough to cause springing (as described by forrest r), the gun will fail to go into battery numerous times. You will definitely know something is wrong.
My parkinsonism that controls walking and balance has made me unable to work in the shop. VOTE RED * PRAY OFTEN You are welcome to message me here or send email to xlordsguitars@gmail.com.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |