Being new to this interesting bit of insanity (that would be a compliment) I'm confused at when you would size a bullet and when you would shot it as-cast. Can you folks help me out witout suggesting an asylum?
Later,
Chiz
Being new to this interesting bit of insanity (that would be a compliment) I'm confused at when you would size a bullet and when you would shot it as-cast. Can you folks help me out witout suggesting an asylum?
Later,
Chiz
There are a variety of reason. Some seek uniformity, either in diameter, or roundness. Many do not like to tumble lube, and sizing/lubing go hand in hand with other systems.
For my preferences, it is a step I would prefer to skip, but the bullets won't properly chamber in my 10mm unless I size them.
Here is a start.... Bore diameter on a 30 caliber gun is usually .308 Groove diameter is over that(not sure what mine measures) I size my 30 cal boolits to .309.... That means you want a nice tight fit so the rifling digs into the boolit, seals off the powder gasses and is not too big so the boolit won't chamber.
Bore diameter = smallist dia, top of rifling
Grove dia= largest measurment, valleys
Lubrasizer= expensive machine to size and lube your boolits
Tumble lube= throw your boolits in a round pan, add some lube and swirl or tumble, dry and load
Shoot as cast= Load right out of the mold as is
Hope that helps some
I size my boolits because they come out of the mold at about .311 and i can't seam to chamber them without the use of a hammer.
Chiz, It's all in what you are casting and how it fits in your firearm, like randy says. If you have a mould that casts a boolit that fits your barrel (i.e. throat, bore and groove diameter) with a particular alloy, then lubed only boolits will shoot fine. If yer boolits are too big, lubrisizing is the way to go. If they're too small, well, no explanation required. I "Pan Lube" some boolits for my single shot target rifles, depending in which mould I'm casting with. Others I have to size some, and I lube them in that procedure. Welcome to the club.
Regards,
Bill
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Life member NRA
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If your boolits fir the gun as cast, I see no sense in lubrisizing. A Lee push through can easily be lapped to larger size and will seat a GC if needed. It's much faster than an RCBS/Lyman type sizer.
OK, I think I get it now. It's another tool to be used as needed depending on the circumstances. And, BPCR Bill, you said, If yer boolits are too big, lubrisizing is the way to go. If they're too small, well, no explanation required. I'm guessing (remember, I'm new) that means to melt them and try a different alloy or maybe lap the mould. Yes? No? Anyway, I haven't even poured my first boolit and I'm having fun already even with the smelting.
I've gone to tumble lubing, then lubrisizing in an old Lyman 45. I like to have the Lee Liquid Alox (a metal preservative) to keep my boolits from oxidizing while they wait in the humid Central Texas air for perhaps a long time before I get to use them. I tend to cast in large batches and store them ready to load. Also, I like having some bit of lubrication on the noses riding the bore.
For my revolvers, I usually go with lubrisized boolits, but do shoot lots of .38s using the Lee TL158 SWC tumble lubed of course.
Welcome abord Ironhat. Go pour yourself a hot one.
"Time and money don't do you a bit of good until you spend them." - My Dad
Well, this is a relief to read. I was holding off on casting until I got the lubrisizing equipment. I suppose I'll have to cast and see how it goes.
How does one go about tumble lubing, and are there alternatives, at least to start with (like how, with black powder bullets, you can melt your lube and then pour it over your bullets in a pan, and let it set up)?
That's called pan lubing, different than tumble lubing.melt your lube and then pour it over your bullets in a pan, and let it set up
To tumble lube, place boolits in small tub, like a cool whip bowl, pour several drops of LLA or Xlox(check the link for Lar45's Stuff at the bottom of the page) and swirl until all are coated. Add more lube if necessary, but a little goes a long way. Then pour out onto wax paper or foil, separate, and let dry overnight.
There are a bazillion variables to try. Like thinning the Xlox with mineral spirits or like I do and mix the Xlox 50/50 with Johnson Paste Wax. Experimenting is part of the fun.
If the diameter of the bullet is to large as it drops from the mould, you have to size it.I'm confused at when you would size a bullet and when you would shot it as-cast.Yes, if bullet diameter is undersize, remelt and add alloy containing antimony. Antimony will make the bullet larger in diameter and harder. 2% tin in the alloy will not hurt a thing. Always check the first few bullets for the correct diameter as soon as the cool.I'm guessing that means to melt them and try a different alloy or maybe lap the mould. Yes? No?
Last edited by 243winxb; 08-05-2009 at 07:58 AM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |