All right wrench turners - I need help

[Land Owner]

[LATE NOTE: See post #61 in this thread that ends well. This screw is OUT without destroying anything]

Yamaha 9.9 hp outboard metal Screw from Hades in plastic part - won't come out.

2006 9.9 MSH 682K S 1041179

A metal screw (#32 in picture below), keeps a broken plastic piece (#31) on its plastic shaft (#24), for control of forward, neutral, and reverse. The screw WILL NOT back out - and I HAVE TRIED. A huge screwdriver, well fitted to the slot in the screw head, cannot turn this screw more than a few hundredths of an inch. I held #24 in location while my son torqued on #32 - nothing. He held its location and I TORQUED on #32 - twice. I got 0.02" (+/-) of total rotation.

I can't grab it with any wrench. None of my Phillips screwdrivers are long enough, and if I had one it would not engage the screw any better than the huge Standard screwdriver already used.

I have tried counter rotation (tightening) and nothing. I have Kroil oil that I have not tried. I am at a loss for what to try next...the "assembly" is held in place through holes in the casting. There is no removal to work this out at the vice on the bench.

[fc60]

Greetings,

Try applying some Kroil to the screw and walk away for a while.

Check with the dealer to ascertain if it is left or right hand thread.

Cheers,

Dave

[country gent]

This may have been assembled hot, some plastic pats doe screws and inserts arnt tapped but put together with the insert hot literally gluing it together

[megasupermagnum]

I doubt Kroil is going to work any miracles. Many disagree, but in all my time working on stuff, I have yet to see any kind of spray on oil do any kind of miracle work for a stuck fastener. I find those oils are best with a through bolt, and it lubes the threads so it doesn't gall.

In your case, the very first thing I would try is get a long extension for a 1/4" drive impact gun. I would then push as hard as I could, and roll into the throttle. With any luck it will either get it out, or break it off. If it broke the head off, then just a little work with a Dremel or file would allow you to get the part out to work on it.

[AggieEE]

I was going to suggest that the parts are held with red or green Locktite. If you can get to the screw head with a big soldering iron, I don't suggest an open flame due to gasoline and other plastic/rubber parts. Get it good and hot then try turning and see what happens. I know if I designed that engine I would not want that screw vibrating out getting lost and you are now stuck in whatever gear you were in when it came out.

If push comes to shove can you break off the rest of the broken plastic part? If so then you can get a wrench or something where you can really put the torque to it, If the screw breaks flush then you can get the shaft out and see what is going on. The screw shouldn't be that expensive especially considering how much of your time is tied up in trying to get the screw out. Good luck and keep us updated please.

[jim147]

A hand impact if it will fit in there. They are pretty cheap. And make sure to have a good size hammer to hit it with.

[Bloodman14]

I worked for a plastic toy company eons ago, and some screws resembled more of a spiral shanked nail, the kind used for trimwork and such. Instead of pushing in on the screw while turning, let the screw back out, keeping just enough pressure on the head.

[Land Owner]

Thanks to Everyone. Great suggestions. It is hoped that one of them will work. Kroil can't hurt and I too have found that through-bolts get lubricated while fasteners do not. I have not ascertained why the Control Arm will not rotate into the Reverse position, which would allow me to work vertically on the screw. There are no longer any linkages connected...so I am "missing something" about the way the Control Arm functions. It used to go into Reverse, but that was with the cowling ON and before this plastic part broke...so maybe in that there is a clue.

[NyFirefighter357]

When I have problems with small bolts & screws after some penetrating fluid I now use my 1/4" impact driver. It usually does the trick.

[r80rt]

Left hand screw?

[MaryB]

Probably a JIS screw not a philips head, using a philips will eventually strip it. Ran into that working on electonics, stuff that is imported or foreign design built here uses JIS fasteners. Might have to bite the bullet and get along enough screwdriver to reach. If you can get extensions in there use the small 1/4 inch impact driver(if you have one) and a #2 JIS bit.

[Mk42gunner]

Couple of suggestions: 1. Use a small impact wrench, either air or electric, set to low power and let it hammer on it for a bit. May work, it did when I had to remove a broken stud in an aluminum bellhousing.

2. Buy both part #24 and 31 with associated screws. you will probably destroy #24 anyway getting the broken part off it. They may come as a kit anyway.

Parts for Yamaha outboards can be expensive, but some aren't. I learned that when I had to replace the waterpump on my '99 15HP. Probably the exact same parts as on yours.

Robert

[ruger1980]

First thing I would do is try look at the end of the screw if it protrudes through the shaft and there is a hole in the plastic piece. It could be staked from the back side during assembly. Maybe a mirror o one of those little remote cameras like a bore scope would work.
If it is staked you will not remove it until you grind off the screw. I would probably break off the plastic at that point and do what I had to do to get it out. You can always rethread for a different screw if need be.

Oh and if it is not staked I would just try working it back n forth. You may find you gain a little each time if you do that.

[NyFirefighter357]

When I have problems with small bolts & screws after some penetrating fluid I now use my 1/4" impact driver. It usually does the trick.

[jsizemore]

If you order #32 then you'll know exactly what your dealing with. Unless you got an outboard mechanic that's a close friend.

I've got some older craftsman screwdrivers with the square shaft. Wrench on the square shaft lets me get a feel while still maintaining pressure to keep the blade in the slot. Soldering iron on the screw is the next move

[jonp]

ATF and Acetone 50/50. Dont be shy with it and let sit overnight. Use a Dremel and put a straight slot in that then lean on it. If needed use a straight bit in a ratchet.

[starnbar]

Pull the power head if you got some hours on the engine and replace the head gasket while you are in there won't cost anymore and a new water pump too.

[megasupermagnum]

No, do not use a hammer impact style screwdriver. You will break the bracket right off, and then you are in deep doo doo. I have never worked on a 9.9 Yamaha. From what I see, that screw is threaded into the metal square shaft. It is very likely it has threadlocker on it, but there's not much you can do about it. I really doubt that is threaded into the plastic.

[JimB..]

From the diagram that screw seems threaded into a hole in the square shaft (24), the hole in the plastic piece (31) is probably just for clearance.

Agree that it should rotate.

1/4” Impact driver.

[JimB..]

Megasupermagnum types faster!