Making that Bullet Collator

[thump_rrr]

Ender 3.

Hmm...ok.

Solution being reprint?

If you're using Cura you can preview your slice layer by layer.
I'm sure the other slicers do the same.
Maybe just preview it to ensure that the error isn't in the slice.

My Z-axis motor issues were self inflicted.
I tried to mechanically level the z-axis but I put the 2 stepper motors out of time with each other.
I corrected that this morning.

Another thing to note is if you have made any other changes to your setup.
When I replaced my fan duct I had to increase nozzle temp 5 degrees to compensate for the added cooling.

EDIT: CHECK YOUR X-AXIS BELT TENSION. Check the Y-axis while you are at it too.
I just remembered that was the cause of my layer shift.
The nozzle hit the print and the belt skipped.
I was sitting there when it happened and I managed to spot it right away.

If you're new to 3D printing checkout this site and start with a frame check.
I've been at this for less than 4 weeks and it has helped me immensely.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

[Anuccite]

Okay, fine by me.....I'm easy.

So think Ed's hex print where the clutch is proud above the plate.....then think my hex print where the clutch is below the plate.


1. Buy a couple of square nuts. (since you have the square recess, that means they won't turn when you tighten the bolt on the bottom)

2. Buy flat head machine screws (since your bottom hole is chamfered) and get them long enough to go past the clutch....you'll see why in a minute.

3. So now tighten the bolts and square nuts until the plate is tight enough to resist light turning pressure.

4. Then mount the "Handle"

5. Then use your nyloc nuts on top....holds the handle on keeps the bolt from loosening. Done.

Oh, here's the handle: (just overhangs the hole, doesn't go into it because some plates like Ed's is lower, and others like the #11 is higher.)



Here's a picture showing why square nuts.....


Now you can keep the plate and the clutch as one easy piece to drop in and use. So you have to print a clutch for every plate.....big deal. Ok if it is a big deal then don't store them together.....still works the same....just less handy. (no my screws are too short...got to get to Ace tomorrow to remedy that.)

Yes please.... My Hex nut is very snug, and changing plates is a struggle....

[GWS]

I don't have any nylocs either and only one screw....will today.....barely fits the regular M4. I will need to open the holes just at tad with a #'d drill since mine have to be screwed in.....but at least they screw in. Maybe Ed's 6-32's fit better than M4's through the clutch holes, haven't checked. (btw, in the picture, being there's only one screw, I managed not to center things....that's why the hole on the left side.)

Another option might be to make a diamond shape instead of the circle, but mine bridged the top okay, but on the next one will add a layer on top of the bridge. Left a tiny pin hole on top.

[Andar]

Is there any way to get a bullet feed die set for 6.5 Creemoor?
I tried opening up the .308 bullet feeder die file in Fusion 360 and it’s giving me a size of 88mm not 8.8mm.
The software side of things makes me want to bang my head against the wall.

When you manually import the file, it gives you the option of what scale everything should be in. You can manually adjust it down to make it match.
If you just open the file with fusion it does not give you that option. Its "Import mesh", then a dialog box will open after you select the file asking for your scale and position.

[RedlegEd]

So who on here loads 6.5 / 7mm / .270? I don't load any, but I think I can make one die to fit all. I need someone (or multiple people) to do some testing. You will need two 3.5mm ball bearings as well. Assuming I can, the next question is what to label it. I'm thinking .270, cause this is America. Haha. Seriously though, I could go any way on the labeling. Hard to say what's more popular. I know 6.5 is all the rage these days but.....

Hi TylerR,
I shoot a .260 Remington, which is 6.5mm, and my favorite jacketed bullet is the 140gr Barnes Match Burner. Basically your average 6.5mm cruise missile. The other is the NOE 266-140.
Ed

[TylerR]

I just posted a 7mm feed die. I would really like to see if it works on 6.5. If it does it should cover the 3 calibers I mentioned. Anyone who cares to test it out please do and let me know.

[TylerR]

I don't have any nylocs either and only one screw....will today.....barely fits the regular M4. I will need to open the holes just at tad with a #'d drill since mine have to be screwed in.....but at least they screw in. Maybe Ed's 6-32's fit better than M4's through the clutch holes, haven't checked. (btw, in the picture, being there's only one screw, I managed not to center things....that's why the hole on the left side.)

Another option might be to make a diamond shape instead of the circle, but mine bridged the top okay, but on the next one will add a layer on top of the bridge. Left a tiny pin hole on top.

I like what you got going on here, but my question is, what about the thinner plates where the clutch protrudes from the top of the plate?

[GWS]

It just rests on the clutch....shorter screws. Of course that's not good for RedlegEd. Don't think he liked the overhang and the visible screw shaft. He's printing one smaller diameter, and added these to keep nylocs (instead of the square nuts he didn't have in stock)from turning and filled up the exposed screw shaft? :



Me? I may print smaller diameter ones too, but sure not necessary for me. Yet the main thing is to keep the nuts from turning so you can tighten the clutch with just a driver from the bottom.....and preferably not have to take everything apart to do it. I really like the idea of being able to put away the clutched plate intact, ready for another go......and make clutches for each plate.

[wrinkles]

Thanks for all the tips on resizing plate for AmmoMike. I started printing, see how it goes.

[TylerR]

It just rests on the clutch....shorter screws. Of course that's not good for RedlegEd. Don't think he liked the overhang and the visible screw shaft. He's printing one smaller diameter, and added these to keep nylocs (instead of the square nuts he didn't have in stock)from turning and filled up the exposed screw shaft? :

I'm going to need to see a pic of this. Maybe Ed can post one when its done.

[SuperMoose]

If you're using Cura you can preview your slice layer by layer.
I'm sure the other slicers do the same.
Maybe just preview it to ensure that the error isn't in the slice.

My Z-axis motor issues were self inflicted.
I tried to mechanically level the z-axis but I put the 2 stepper motors out of time with each other.
I corrected that this morning.

Another thing to note is if you have made any other changes to your setup.
When I replaced my fan duct I had to increase nozzle temp 5 degrees to compensate for the added cooling.

EDIT: CHECK YOUR X-AXIS BELT TENSION. Check the Y-axis while you are at it too.
I just remembered that was the cause of my layer shift.
The nozzle hit the print and the belt skipped.
I was sitting there when it happened and I managed to spot it right away.

If you're new to 3D printing checkout this site and start with a frame check.
I've been at this for less than 4 weeks and it has helped me immensely.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Thanks for the information. I checked it in the slicer and it looks fine. I'll try reprint it at some point. I may try super gluing it first...for now...

[RedlegEd]

I like what you got going on here, but my question is, what about the thinner plates where the clutch protrudes from the top of the plate?

Hi,
I think I have a solution for that (with thanks and credit to GWS for the idea.) Here's a concept drawing of the replacement clutch plate (top piece) that has an integrated handle. I'm printing up a sample now to make sure it works as envisioned. I'll post results. I think this would lend itself easily to being user modified as far as height goes.
Ed



ETA: After looking at the design above, I decided to go with the one in post #3847 below. The cross bar at the top would require supports.

[Master Sergeant]

I’m on page 18 in the manual. Downloaded bf_v1.3.9.zip, updated JRE, then clicking PartsGenerator.jar and no interface pops up. Just further expands the file tree. Can few those files but PartsGenerator doesn’t execute. Any ideas?

I can open the other folders, individually select an .stl and then slice it. PartsGenerator looks so cool that I’d like to give it a try.

Amazing job, folks.


Thanks.

[RedlegEd]

I’m on page 18 in the manual. Downloaded bf_v1.3.9.zip, updated JRE, then clicking PartsGenerator.jar and no interface pops up. Just further expands the file tree. Can few those files but PartsGenerator doesn’t execute. Any ideas?

I can open the other folders, individually select an .stl and then slice it. PartsGenerator looks so cool that I’d like to give it a try.

Amazing job, folks.
Thanks.

Hi MSG,
Did you unzip all the files and subfolders into the same directory? I found for the PartsGenerator to work, it has to be in the same folder/directory as all of the other files.
Ed

[Master Sergeant]

Yes.

Thanks

[RedlegEd]

I'm going to need to see a pic of this. Maybe Ed can post one when its done.

Hi all,
Ok, I got a new clutch plate printed. The intent was to have an integrated handle, as well as not having to hold the Nylock nut while tightening. this one is set up for a hex drive and #6-32x3/4" screw/nut, but could easily be modified to accommodate an M4 screw and nut. I changed up my original concept a little due to the overwhelming distaste for supports.
Ed

[stanford]

Thanks for the information. I checked it in the slicer and it looks fine. I'll try reprint it at some point. I may try super gluing it first...for now...

Don't let it get to you it happens. The one on the left was printed on Tuesday, the one on the right on Wednesday. Not sure where the problem is yet but I think its my direct gear bearing.

[GWS]

Got my #11 with the clutch finished! Video below demos the clutch and then dropping Sierra 168g hollowpoints. Not quite 100% with those so far. For some reason every once in a while a bullet slides down and falls out of the hole. I added a second batch of bullets and the fourth bullet did just that.....for your pleasure. Maybe my maximum tilt is going to have to be ......more....as the bullet flip needs both ramps on a few.

The clutch with it's handle works perfect on the #11 at least. I may want to make the final design the same diameter as the clutch tho....since in effect with the lid/handle there's two clutches......rolling eyes....but it works great, and with the handle I can just pull the whole thing out and put it away.



I used M4 flat head machine screws.....all I had to do with the holes is hand twist a #23 drill bit in each hole, and hand twist a chamfer tool where the flat head goes in a half dozen turns. 5 minutes worth. I had the M4 square nuts shown in a previous post of mine, so I used them and they work great. Allows tightening the clutch with only a screwdriver from the bottom.

Probably not going to make it more complicated than that since I've got a lot of other projects I want to do before I die.

[wrinkles]

9mm plate done. Next up .223.

[thump_rrr]

Is there any way to separate the 7mm die set?
I need to reprint the interior again.
My ball bearings will be arriving on Sunday so I can start testing.