I plan on getting some alloy tested since I just ordered a mold for my K31.
Question: what is the consensus on which facility is the best?
Thinking of cost and turn around time.
I plan on getting some alloy tested since I just ordered a mold for my K31.
Question: what is the consensus on which facility is the best?
Thinking of cost and turn around time.
Your best best is to contact BNE with a PM!!!
Mike
Benefactor Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
John Adams 1826
I use my rifled barrels and my targets to tell me about my alloys.
I regularly go down the rabbit holes, but this isn't one I would spend a cent on. If my alloy has zinc, it will be apparent. If it is hard, you can measure it. If it is soft, you can measure it. If the bullets cast, shoot em. They will leave you a note if you need more lube or need to slow down or speed up.
Let's go Brandon!
Contact BNE on here with a PM.
He will do you right - - - for the cost of a pound of lead.
banger
Thank you Mike and banger. I want to document accuracy vs. different amounts of Sb and Sn in the alloy.
WOW................a whole lot more detail than I ever got into. I just throw a bit of this and a bit of that (knowing what is in each "bit" because all my alloys are x-ray verified & marked) into the pot, melt it, cast it, PC it, and shoot it.
Good luck on your scientific journey down the range. Report back as to what you find over time.
banger
I shoot several different calibers in both handgun and rifle and sometimes it's been a while since I shoot a particular gun. I cast handgun bullets for 4 different calibers and don't get too deep into the alloy details but this project is for my K31 7.5x55 rifle which is a pretty accurate gun and which I shoot in informal matches, so for me, a group measuring 1.25" vs. a group measuring 1.75" is important.
For such a project I would buy known alloy but getting what you have tested is almost as good. There is a thread about what is needed for just what you want to do. You need a combination of high velocity and accuracy if your informal matches are shot at longer than 100 yards. I would search on RPM threshold and also measure the twist of your barrel. The reason I suggest you buy alloy is that I think you would be best off if you cast your bullets from linotype. You will not want to be any softer than Lyman #2. You could go with a heat treated bullet or a copper bearing alloy but the easy button is just buy linotype.
Tim
Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS
The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton
The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides
Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS
The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton
The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |