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Thread: Question on alloy

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Question on alloy

    I plan on getting some alloy tested since I just ordered a mold for my K31.
    Question: what is the consensus on which facility is the best?
    Thinking of cost and turn around time.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    Your best best is to contact BNE with a PM!!!
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  3. #3
    Boolit Man

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    I use my rifled barrels and my targets to tell me about my alloys.
    I regularly go down the rabbit holes, but this isn't one I would spend a cent on. If my alloy has zinc, it will be apparent. If it is hard, you can measure it. If it is soft, you can measure it. If the bullets cast, shoot em. They will leave you a note if you need more lube or need to slow down or speed up.
    Let's go Brandon!

  4. #4
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    Contact BNE on here with a PM.

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    banger

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    Thank you Mike and banger. I want to document accuracy vs. different amounts of Sb and Sn in the alloy.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
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    WOW................a whole lot more detail than I ever got into. I just throw a bit of this and a bit of that (knowing what is in each "bit" because all my alloys are x-ray verified & marked) into the pot, melt it, cast it, PC it, and shoot it.

    Good luck on your scientific journey down the range. Report back as to what you find over time.

    banger

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    WOW................a whole lot more detail than I ever got into. I just throw a bit of this and a bit of that (knowing what is in each "bit" because all my alloys are x-ray verified & marked) into the pot, melt it, cast it, PC it, and shoot it.

    Good luck on your scientific journey down the range. Report back as to what you find over time.

    banger
    I am in the same casting boat
    never get to particular about what its made of
    if it shoot the way I want thats good enough for me
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elmer Fudd View Post
    I use my rifled barrels and my targets to tell me about my alloys.
    I regularly go down the rabbit holes, but this isn't one I would spend a cent on. If my alloy has zinc, it will be apparent. If it is hard, you can measure it. If it is soft, you can measure it. If the bullets cast, shoot em. They will leave you a note if you need more lube or need to slow down or speed up.
    Wasting primers and powder shooting bullets made from the wrong alloy is expensive right now.

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    I shoot several different calibers in both handgun and rifle and sometimes it's been a while since I shoot a particular gun. I cast handgun bullets for 4 different calibers and don't get too deep into the alloy details but this project is for my K31 7.5x55 rifle which is a pretty accurate gun and which I shoot in informal matches, so for me, a group measuring 1.25" vs. a group measuring 1.75" is important.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    For such a project I would buy known alloy but getting what you have tested is almost as good. There is a thread about what is needed for just what you want to do. You need a combination of high velocity and accuracy if your informal matches are shot at longer than 100 yards. I would search on RPM threshold and also measure the twist of your barrel. The reason I suggest you buy alloy is that I think you would be best off if you cast your bullets from linotype. You will not want to be any softer than Lyman #2. You could go with a heat treated bullet or a copper bearing alloy but the easy button is just buy linotype.

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtknowles View Post
    For such a project I would buy known alloy but getting what you have tested is almost as good. There is a thread about what is needed for just what you want to do. You need a combination of high velocity and accuracy if your informal matches are shot at longer than 100 yards. I would search on RPM threshold and also measure the twist of your barrel. The reason I suggest you buy alloy is that I think you would be best off if you cast your bullets from linotype. You will not want to be any softer than Lyman #2. You could go with a heat treated bullet or a copper bearing alloy but the easy button is just buy linotype.

    Tim
    Yeah . . . I'm thinking 3% tin, 8% antimony, and 89% lead. MV of 1700-1750 fps

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by silhouette_shooter View Post
    Yeah . . . I'm thinking 3% tin, 8% antimony, and 89% lead. MV of 1700-1750 fps
    I am thinking that will be fine but I still wonder about the rifle's twist rate, if it is a not a fast twist you could get move velocity with accuracy assuming a gas check bullet.

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check