I've sorted out the obvious iron, zinc, Aluminum, but there's a lot of questionable types almost 100 lbs, that I hope you folks can help me with? I'mi using a pair of Lee 6 cavity aluminum molds. Both are rn, both intended for tumble lube. I have a Lee 1000 progressive that i've yet to set up, and no other loaders. 30 years ago, I loaded a few hundred rds on a Dillion 550 and 40 years ago, I loaded 100,000 rds of ..45 ACP, all my cast bullets from H and G steel 4-cavity molds, , on a Star progressive. I've loaded at least 20,000 rds of assorted calibers, mostly .45, on single station presses, but all long ago. 15 years ago, I cast a few pure tin bullets with Lee 6 cavity mold, cause I was experimenting with very lw bullets. Total of maybe 200 bullets. I"ve always used a propane fired plumber's furnace, b but now have a turkey cooker and propane, as of yet not set up. I've used a lyman and lee electric pot, 40 years ago, but found them to be far too small/slow.. I've never used the tumble lube. I've always used either a lyman or Star sizer luber and tamarack 50/50 alox/beeswax lube. One mold is 358" 150 gr intended for use in .38, the other is 124 gr .356 for 9mm. I intend to use the 150 at 850 fps, in a govt model 9mm and the 124 gr in a Siz P938, at about 800 fps in that 3" barrel. I've got the lee lube. Bullseye is the powder I've got. Will the 358 stand sizing down to 356 and not lose the lube grooves?
Many of the wheel weights are marked "P", which I assume means PB, for lead. some are marked FE, Al, Zc, which I assume means iron, aluminum and zinc. Some are marked 'micro", which I GUESS is a maker's mark? Some are marked MC, but are mostly an odd shape, square cross section (end view) I hope those are lead, cause I've got about 50 lbs of them. I once ruined a LOT of good lyman $2 casting alloy by mixing in some "wiped" lead joints, so I know that you CAN ruin all of your alloy. Lead's hard to come by around here, so I dont want that to happen. Can somebody guide me as to what to not melt in with the lead? In particular, is "MC" ok? it looks like lead, but most of them are not dark in color. I'm aware that it could be just lack of oxidation. Is there some sort of test that can be done? do some show a crystalline grain stucture when broken, react to battery acid, etc? thanks.