Learn to be a better buyer. Ruger's biggest problem on single actions is getting the barrels screwed on straight. If they are installed crooked, then one portion of the barrel shoulder hits first leaving a gap on the opposite side.
Do you have any proof? I've never once seen this from any brand. Unless the threads were messed up, this is not possible.
If they tighten the barrel to make the gap go away the barrel will fight to align, but you get "a constriction" proportional to the misalignment. That causes another problem if the alignment didn't go away.
What?
A slug that can't force the cylinder into alignment before the base has exited squarely, gets a boat tail cut onto their PB bullet as the seal breaks. Even if you remove the choke, you still damage the base. How did Ol'timers get around this? They used base protection in one of three forms. They either used a slow powder so the column would slow the gasses, they slapped on a check, or they shoot poofies to lower the cutting heat / force & minimize the deformation.
I assume what you are trying to say here, is that the cylinder throat and barrel can be out of perfect alignment. This is true, but it is true of all revolvers, luck of the draw. S&W is no better. I believe Magnum Research, and Freedom arms are your only bet for perfect alignment short of a custom, as they bore the barrel and cylinders together. Even still, Ruger and S&W can shoot amazingly.
So learning what you have can save you BIG bucks trying this & that if you can face the reality of what you bought. How bad is the problem? 24 out of 27 brand new, single actions at my local store could be seen by the naked eye. The best were 2, fix sighted guns cause you can't cheat and adjust the sights. I bought the 27th.
See what? 24 out of 27 were in a glass case?
Guns with misalignment can compensate by wearing so the cylinder can turn into alignment. Ruger cylinders are peened on the ends to fit the base pin so they can …. stretch (run out of round) for that chamber when the gun breaks in. What happens if you "fix" that problem with a LARGER base pin? You force the wear somewhere else, forcing cones, barrels, throats that enlarge or oblong. So the best you can hope for is to let the gun shake rattle & move.
Again, do you have any proof? Oblong barrels? Come on now.
How is this done? Look down the top of the revolver. With your eye draw an imaginary line across the face of your cylinder & project a 90 degree line. Does you muzzle line up with that line. Then repeat this process from the side. If you have a constriction, it will at least tell you where the barrel made first contact (where it is) so you can work on that area before you fire lap slop into compensating dimensions of the gun and have to shoot permanently shoot big, soft bullets at low velocity.
You cannot see a constriction with the naked eye. Turning the gun 90 degrees isn't going to help.