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Thread: Metal Work

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy hockeynick39's Avatar
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    Metal Work

    I happen to require some assistance with the use of a steel lathe. The work required would be to mill a few thousandths or a hundreth of the diameter off the entire length on an RCBS large shot drop tube. The shot drop is for loading 20 gauge #5 and larger shot. I had to smooth the other one I have for 12 gauge out with some emery cloth and then some 0000 steel wool. If you can do this and would like to help, please PM me. Thank you.

    Here is a link to what I am talking about:
    https://www.ballisticproducts.com/RC...tinfo/6008902/

    Yes, it says for 12 gauge only, however, I also load #4 shot in my 20 gauge and the original shot tube doesn't drop shot correctly and it is a PITA to clear out!!!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    What material is the tube made of, and what is the outside diameter? I'm up in Oklahoma City, so you may not want to ship it that far.

    Bill

  3. #3
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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Depending on material and amount to be removed shouldnt be to bad a job. Wall thickness may become an issue. One thing to check for in the existing tube is if it as any magnetism in it. With steel shot that may be a problem also. Im still a few weeks away from having my shop up and running though.

    Your post is a little confusing as you state the use of a lathe then the job would require milling off a certain amount. Does it need turned down reducing the actual dia or flutes cut in it? Im assuming you need the dia reduced to fit thicker steel wads.

  5. #5
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    Are you wanting to remove material from the outside of the tube, or the inside? The reason for the question is that removing from the outside won’t help to keep from clogging when you drop big shot. How long is the tube?

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy hockeynick39's Avatar
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    Thank you for the replies gentleman!!! Yes, it is for the removal of material from the outside. I spoke with my father last night and he says he has some metal cutting points for his lathe and can do the job. The OD on the tube is .562 and the ID is .458. Figure about taking .052" off the OD should leave plenty of material and still work for it's intended purpose.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    thats roughly a .025 wall thickness. You might try only taking .040 to start and test it.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy hockeynick39's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    thats roughly a .025 wall thickness. You might try only taking .040 to start and test it.
    My math puts wall thickness at .052". .562 - .458 = .104 - .052 = .052". Did I miss something?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Yep, .052 is not wall thickness, it's the wall thickness of both sides so you have .026 on each side wall. If you take .052 off one side it takes .052 off the other side at the same time.
    Last edited by rbuck351; 05-22-2020 at 10:55 AM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbuck351 View Post
    Yep, .052 is not wall thickness, it's the wall thickness of both sides so you have .026 on each side wall. If you take .052 off one side it takes .052 off the other side at the same time.
    Uhhhhhh NO. If he only takes off .052" the math automatically dictates that it will only remove .026" from each wall as the cross slide on the lathe is only advanced .026" into the work to remove a total of .052" from the OD.

    The tube in your link is finished in black, it may well be hardened, meaning only carbide will cut it, and if it is case hardened it will have to be done by a tool post grinder and not carbide. See if a file cuts it easily or basically skids off it like a ball bearing. If the tube is meant for steel shot, I can assure you it is hardened in some manner.
    Last edited by DougGuy; 05-22-2020 at 01:15 PM.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Is this only so it goes into the case, or through the wad guide easier? If so, you could likely do some good work with a hand drill and a file. I don't know why they would be hardened steel for a drop tube, they don't take any abuse.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by hockeynick39 View Post
    My math puts wall thickness at .052". .562 - .458 = .104 - .052 = .052". Did I miss something?
    As was mentioned, the .052 you would be left with is for two wall thicknesses, .026 for each. Your current wall thickness is .052 for each wall so you are making it 1/2 as thick. I would suggest taking off less also. Go look at a set of feeler gauges, .026 isn’t much!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    GONRA sez - better make a mandrel to mount the tube on. Trick is to avoid wall collapse / bad OD uniformity. Gottahava mandrel....

    (Not sure any readers really understand yer project..... I sure don't!) ???? But if ya'll still REALLY wanna doit, - make a mandrel first!

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    How close do your dimensions need to be? Could you just buy a new tube from McMaster Carr?

    https://www.mcmaster.com/89955K479
    quando omni flunkus moritati

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by GONRA View Post
    GONRA sez - better make a mandrel to mount the tube on. Trick is to avoid wall collapse / bad OD uniformity. Gottahava mandrel....

    (Not sure any readers really understand yer project..... I sure don't!) ???? But if ya'll still REALLY wanna doit, - make a mandrel first!
    Yep with a wall that thin it will chatter on ya.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check