Pid controller

[747 captain]

What is the cheapest way to go to build a pod controller, can you list all the parts needed

[PNW_Steve]

I am looking at:

With that you would need another enclose and a power cord. I will be controlling a 110v pot so I will use a 10' 12gauge extension cord for the power cord. Cut it in half and wire the plug end to the power in and the receptacle end to the power out.

One detail about this PID. It's upper temp limit is 750F. If you have any need to run hotter than that you will need to find a PID with a higher limit.

[747 captain]

This one unit will do it all?

[Jake McCracken]

You should also use some sort of relay to switch the power on and off. The contacts on the controller won't handle switching the 120v line to the pot on and off under load.

I'm sure there's how to videos out there. But if you want I can post the schematic i used in building mine (see pic)

I actually just finished and tested it yesterday so my schematic is still in the pencil on a napkin stage. But if you pm me ill send it to ya as soon as i make a cleaned up drawing.

BTW, I used spare parts from jobs at work. Some of my component types are expensive, but you can find cheaper components that will do the exact same functions.

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[rancher1913]

just buy one from hatch and save yourself a lot of trouble

[747 captain]

How much? I’m on a serious budget being out of work due to illness

[747 captain]

just buy one from hatch and save yourself a lot of trouble

How McCullough from hatch

[PNW_Steve]

This one unit will do it all?

Yes.

It is the PID, solid state relay (SSR) and thermocouple. You will need to add an enclosure and power cords. A $8 PVC j-box from Lowe's and a 10' 12gauge extension cord will do the job.

[747 captain]

Will that thermocouple that comes with it work? The element is very short

[Jake McCracken]

Yes.

It is the PID, solid state relay (SSR) and thermocouple.

I just looked at the pic didnt check the link.

I hate when people do that. Sorry

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[Minerat]

Hatch has a VS site but here is his recent thread on PIDs.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-CORONA-UPDATE!

You probably won't save very much building it yourself unless you have some of the components.

[747 captain]

You should also use some sort of relay to switch the power on and off. The contacts on the controller won't handle switching the 120v line to the pot on and off under load.

I'm sure there's how to videos out there. But if you want I can post the schematic i used in building mine (see pic)

I actually just finished and tested it yesterday so my schematic is still in the pencil on a napkin stage. But if you pm me ill send it to ya as soon as i make a cleaned up drawing.

BTW, I used spare parts from jobs at work. Some of my component types are expensive, but you can find cheaper components that will do the exact same functions.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Is your braided lead down in the lead?

[PNW_Steve]

Hatch has a VS site but here is his recent thread on PIDs.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-CORONA-UPDATE!

You probably won't save very much building it yourself unless you have some of the components.

I am all for supporting vendors here. I have had great dealings with them. I would probably be casting my own bullets by now if I wasn't so tickled with the bullets that I have gotten from Casting Machine.

If you are able to do it yourself, I support that too.

I am able to source the parts and build one for about $40 plus my time and knowledge. I will probably go that route.

If you are not comfortable finding, assembling and configuring the PID then $129 for a complete and tested unit is a good deal for you.

[Jake McCracken]

Is your braided lead down in the lead?

There is no braided lead. Its a 6' solid wire designed for large furnaces. There is a threaded end with the 2 wires at the PID end. The actual thermocouple is at the very end of the wire in the lead pot. Its a bit overkill, but like i said, it's built from spare / leftover parts from other jobs.

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[Bantou]

I am looking at:


With that you would need another enclose and a power cord. I will be controlling a 110v pot so I will use a 10' 12gauge extension cord for the power cord. Cut it in half and wire the plug end to the power in and the receptacle end to the power out.

One detail about this PID. It's upper temp limit is 750F. If you have any need to run hotter than that you will need to find a PID with a higher limit.

I just bought basically that same set up from amazon. It won’t be here for another couple of weeks though. I added a CPU cooling fan to my order as well because it will be used in an un-climate controlled shed in Texas.


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[NineInchNails]

I just bought basically that same set up from amazon. It won’t be here for another couple of weeks though. I added a CPU cooling fan to my order as well because it will be used in an un-climate controlled shed in Texas.


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If you have a link to what you bought that would be helpful. In the eBay link there's a kit shown. Does the one you bought have the exact same thermocouple? That is the shortest probe I've ever seen. It appears as though that probe is intended to be installed through the wall and below the level of the lead.

I personally prefer to use longer probes like this 6" thermocouple

I like to use pannel mounts and plug so I can unplug the thermocouple. Now if you do use these, you must use thermocouple extension wire to wire the panel mount to the PID otherwise it won't work right.

I always use Auber PIDs due to their quality and versatility. Auber is a very good company and sells high quality stuff. I have purchased avvery cheap SSR on eBay and it crapped out on me quick. Maybe a fluke, don't know. As long as you know what you need, you can probably find parts cheaper than Auber, but you just have to know what you're looking for.

[psychbiker]

$50-60 likely cheapest building your own. That’s what it was for me and that includes making the box out of wood I had laying around and using an old 12 gauge extension cord my dad doesn’t need.

Kids on eBay for parts exist but rarely have the 6” probe thermocouple.

[44magLeo]

You don't really need that heavy a cord. Most any cord of 16 ga will be plenty. If you have to buy a 6 ft. is enough.
I used an old cash box to put mine in.
Leo

[Bantou]

If you have a link to what you bought that would be helpful. In the eBay link there's a kit shown. Does the one you bought have the exact same thermocouple? That is the shortest probe I've ever seen. It appears as though that probe is intended to be installed through the wall and below the level of the lead.

I personally prefer to use longer probes like this 6" thermocouple

I like to use pannel mounts and plug so I can unplug the thermocouple. Now if you do use these, you must use thermocouple extension wire to wire the panel mount to the PID otherwise it won't work right.

I always use Auber PIDs due to their quality and versatility. Auber is a very good company and sells high quality stuff. I have purchased avvery cheap SSR on eBay and it crapped out on me quick. Maybe a fluke, don't know. As long as you know what you need, you can probably find parts cheaper than Auber, but you just have to know what you're looking for.

Go to amazon and search Inkbird PID, it shows up close to the top. I believe it has the same thermocouple. I haven’t decided if I’m going to use it or do something different. I ladle my bullets so having a long TC hanging over the top of the pot isn’t a great option. I saw somewhere on here where somebody put a similar looking TC through the side of their pot and I’m leaning that direction. I bought this PID specifically for my lead pot so I’m not worried about changing the TC quickly.


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[44magLeo]

Most of the kits I looked at the thermocouple that comes with the kit is a short one. Getting a longer one only cost a few bucks.
The short one can be used two ways. Remove your pot from the housing. This needs to be done for either way.
#1 Weld a 1/4" x 20 nut to the pot where you want the thermocouple. Tread the thermocouple into the nut. This puts the tip of the thermocouple tight to the pot.
#2 Drill a 1/4" hole where you want the thermocouple, put the thermocouple through this hole and thread an acorn nut on. This seals the thermocouple and nut to the pot.
On either way you may need to cut a hole in the housing to run the cable from the thermocouple out to hook to the PID.
From some of what I have read some pots have the nut already welded on the pot.
They do sell a thermocouple that has a ring on the end. If the ring is the right size it could be put between the pot and the nut that holds the spout in place.
Leo