simple Hi-Tek coating

[dansedgli]

I'll buy an ir thermometer tomorrow and do a test with a temp probe in a bullet on the weekend if I get time.

I am keen to get the colour right on this one.

Thanks again for your help.

[Burnt Fingers]

You guys are killing me with the Tru Blue.

Still waiting for it here in the States.

[Ausglock]

Dan.
do you take the tray out at the 1/2 time point and turn it 180 deg and re-insert it?
helps with removing hot spot colour.
Drop back to 10 mins.

[dansedgli]

I dont do that, Ill give it a try at lunch though. Ive got 6 more trays left to coat but plan on casting more over the next few weeks.

[mozee]

get a room.....lol

lol -

[Petander]

200 grainer 38's, 260 44's and 12 gauge RB:s. All good.

[kevin c]

Thanks for the update, Donnie!

Say, Petander. I'm going to set up a bullet thermocouple like yours. Is there any difference in using a metal rod versus bead type probe? I was wondering if the rod sticking out of the bullet would throw off the temp reading.

[Petander]

Thanks for the update, Donnie!

Say, Petander. I'm going to set up a bullet thermocouple like yours. Is there any difference in using a metal rod versus bead type probe? I was wondering if the rod sticking out of the bullet would throw off the temp reading.

I have only used a metal probe,it's the tip that takes reading. My bullets are cast to the tip.

When this probe reads 160°C my bullet surface is already 175-180°C. I let my probe meter start "beep" @ 180°C, at that point I only bake one more minute and my end surface temp is 190°C. I have a standard 8 min bake for 6-8 lbs loads,oven @ 185°C. Repeatable without watching the meters any more.

It's easy to confirm surface temps with an IR meter. Then, after a few test bakes, you can relate your probe readings to the actual bullet surface temp.

There are many ways to bake. I like to measure when in doubt.

[slide]

kevin c You can order a digital thermometer with a thermocouple off of amazon for under twenty bucks. The thermocouple has a shield on it. There is only about 1/8" exposed which goes in the base of the bullet. It will be the best twenty bucks you have ever spent. Way too may guys are guessing what their bullet temp is.

[kevin c]

Thanks guys!

[dansedgli]

This color is nice. 10 minutes instead of 11.

[Ausglock]

This color is nice. 10 minutes instead of 11.

Great result...

[HI-TEK]

This color is nice. 10 minutes instead of 11.

Great result. Well done. Product looks very professional finish.

[Jhopson]

This color is nice. 10 minutes instead of 11.

Those are some good looking bullets!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kevin c]

Say, slide.

That data you graphed out, comparing the heating of a bare cast to a coated cast, was that with a regular color or one of the metallics? I'd guess the heating curves would be different with versus without the extra heat reflective properties of the metallic coatings.

[Burnt Fingers]

Tru Blue is now available here in the US. I noticed it on the site today. I've already got mine ordered!

[Petander]

It's TMG o' clock.

[slide]

kevin c If I remember right it was the kyrptonite green. Joe did the graph. I just watched the temps and wrote them down. Differences? Joe will have to answer that one for you.

[HI-TEK]

Say, slide.

That data you graphed out, comparing the heating of a bare cast to a coated cast, was that with a regular color or one of the metallics? I'd guess the heating curves would be different with versus without the extra heat reflective properties of the metallic coatings.

kevinC
Interesting question. The test was done with a metallic. The coating thickness would have been about 1 thou.
All the coatings contain materials that would produce very similar heat reflecting property.
With non metallic, I doubt that it would alter heat curve temperature differentiation by more than a couple of degrees. The polymer itself is already a very poor conductor of heat. The inclusion of other materials does improve heat reflecting property.

[Elkins45]

I know the instructions for the powder say you can add alcohol instead of acetone or MEK to slow evaporation, but what about mineral spirits? Is the powder soluble in mineral spirits or would that just make a mess? Even with alcohol added it still dries a little too fast for me. I would like to slow down the evaporation time just a bit more so I swirl longer and can get a more even first coat.