One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
I have installed Various scope mounts on my M N's
I have the mounts that replaced the rear sight and used a LER scope.
I have one I bought for my M-44, and 91-30
I got a M-39 Bad *** Ace mount for a M-39 that worked on my M-28-30
Now they do not make a Scout scope mount for my 1891's.
So those ones I made out of a scope rail for a Marlin 336 and a piece of metal to replace the sight leaf.
But I also made side mounted scope mounts for some rifles like the Hex receivers and customized the bolt handles.
I do have an ATI mount that uses a regular Eye Relief scope, but never mounted it on a rifle because I did not want to drill my rifles in the top of the receiver. but Friends have them and like them.
But I did install a PU scope on my Chinese M 53 and made the bolt handle into the sniper design by welding an extension on to it and reshaping it.
Wow nice indeed. I can't wait till tomorrow lol. My irons grouping test went well. Looking forward to see how it does with a scope.
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
I got it zeroed pretty decent. Then i started pulling shots left. Not sure if it was because the barrel was getting hot. Or from me getting uncomfortable not being able to get a cheek weld. Im going to get a check rest for it. Next outing ill rig something up until i decide on what ill buy.
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
How far were the shots pulling to the left.
And were they all grouping consistent to the left, or just all over to the left.
Check to see if you have pressure from the stock on your barrel consistent with which way your bullets were going once the barrel got hot.
IE; the barrel is hitting the wood solidly on the right side of the barrel.
But also, with a new scope mounted up, check to see if the mount is still tight.
Those Scout scope mounts are not the most solid mounts, and do loosen up.
I always use Blue Locktite on all the screws and set screws, plus I install Shim washers to take up the extra space where the screws go into the sides of the base.
The bases are usually aluminum, and with a gap between the base and the rear sight ears, you can not get them really tight without bending the ears on the rear sight base, or stripping out the threads in the scope base.
And make sure your screws are not bottoming out on the screw on the opposite side.
They will be tight, but leave a space where the scope mount can move side to side after firing a bit.
Last edited by LAGS; 04-11-2019 at 09:08 PM.
It was good on horizontal just a about 2 inches left. The rings were a little loose about 1/2 turn. I tightened them. Came up with something for a temporary cheek rest too. Until mine comes in that ordered. I'll loctite them too. Thanks for the idea. Saturday im going back out. Rain tomorrow.
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
How did you set up your scope and bore sight it, Thru the bore or a laser bore sighter ?
I try to set all my scopes to Zero /Zero on V blocks, then bore sight them on the rifle.
Then I will make as much adjustment in the scope base as I can to get the Zeroed Scope to Bore Sight in, before I ever adjust the dials on the scope.
That gives me Full adjustment in all four directions if needed.
But in many cases, I install the zeroed scope on the rifle and test fire it.
I do not touch the dials at all.
I record where it is shooting, then back home to use a bore sighter and Make adjustments to ONLY the mount.
I Know, I have way too much time on my hands.
I bore sighted it looking though the bore at the range. I have a laser one that goes on the the muzzle too. But with it being counter bored wasn't sure how well that would work. It was about a foot low 1st shot and 3 inches left at 25 yards. I got it in at 25 then moved out to 100. Only needed a little adjustment. Ran a few with the tula ammo. The a few with ppu. Then a few with my speer loads. Took a break from the target and shot at some cans and brick people dumped. Started to miss. Went back to the target. That's when i saw it was pulling left. Rain today. Gives me time to do the loctite and roll some more ammo.
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
The Laser will work on a counter bored rifle.
If it is the type that has a laser that sits and centers on the crown at the end of the barrel , and a stem with a adjustable flaring piece that fits down into the bore.
If you haven't re adjusted your scope yet, then check it with the laser, just to see where you are at, and possibly adjust your mount a bit for elevation before you locktite everything in.
It's just a cheap magnetic one with a cone. I already did the loctite. It's setting up for tomorrows outing. Im getting ready to roll some more rounds soon.
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
I am also wanting to scope my 91/30. Has anyone used a https://jmeckscopemounts.com Thinking i might go with this setup.
This is the first time I have seen the Jmecks mount.
It looks like something I might use to install a scope on a rifle that I did not want to drill and tap or modify from its original condition.
It looks like you could get a regular scope on the rifle with out much problem, and it would give you a better sight picture than a Scout Scope set up that replaces the rear sight.
Since I have never seen one of these mounts, I will not guess about the durability, or if it can truly hold Zero over time.
But the band that holds it on, being able to be bent with your hands seems like it could possibly flex a little.
But it does seem like a nifty way for an average guy to scope his rifle with a standard style scope at home with a minimum of tools.
But your bolt handle looks like it still has to be modified.
To me, that is not an issue since I have spare Parts for my rifles that have already been modified, so I can keep the original bolt body Original and not effect the value of the rifle if it is some collectable model. ( Very Few are )
This is the mount i went with.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosin-Nagan...72.m2749.l2649
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
I have never used that mount.
Mine are the ones that replace the rear sight blade and have screws that go thru where the Pivot pin use to hold the sight blade on, then have two set screws that bind against the old sight base and they can give you a little elevation correction if needed.
DO YOU KNOW THIS???
http://www.scopemounts.com/index.html?main.html
Yes I know about the S&K scope mounts.
I have several on My Lee Enfields , German , Turk/Czech 98-22 and Yugo Mausers , Mosin Nagants M-53, M-44 and 91/30.
But they don't make one for the M 1891
The only one that I didn't like was for the SKS, but it is a good mount, it was just more of my personal Preference, so I built my own
Question on red dot for 150 grain jacketed speer bullets. I been running with the 13 grain rule. Would bumping to 15 grains be dangerous?
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
It has been so long since I used Red Dot in my MN's I cant say for sure.
But never just JUMP up to a load.
Work the load up slowly, especially on old Mil Surps.
Currently I am using Reloader 7 and 2400 with my cast loads.
Before that it was Unique.
My J bullets, I mostly used IMR 4895
Yeah im thinking do 5 at 13.5 and keep going .5 increases. And chronoing them as i go as well as seeing how they are for accuracy. And checking for pressure signs. For full power loads im running imr 4895 at 44 grains middle of the road.
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
O use this mount which came as a "kit" with D&T, and bolt handle. You cut off the bolt handle and D&T'd it for the new one. I had a Soviet sniper bolt so I used that instead. I had to cut off and reshape a bit of the back of the mount for the Soviet bolt handle to clear but it wasn't difficult. I also added an additional mound screw to the front which makes it rock solid on the rifle.
Attachment 239743Attachment 239744Attachment 239745
Larry Gibson
“Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
― Nikola Tesla
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |